crow-feather
Private
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2017
I obtained an 1859 Sharps infantry rifle at the start of winter. It is a repro as availability, accuracy and especially cost were critical factors. I had to trade to get my hands on this one. The rifle is also the first pre cartridge Sharps that I have ever handled.
I was fascinated at first touch. A rifle that loaded from the breach but required a cap to fire. The rifle came with two moulds, a bunch of brass cases, and two blocks. I and my wife have BPCR's and I load for them. I wanted to see if I could get the 59 shooting as well as the 1874 Sharps and My wife's roller.
I started by watching all the U tubes on loading and firing the 59 sharps. Then I checked out the U tubes on making the 59 Sharp's ammunition. I then read as much info as I could find on making ammo and firing and cleaning the Sharps 59.
I started with nitrated paper using Spectrcide Stump Remover and the same paper that I used for the paper patch bullets in my 74 Sharps. I expected to see the paper combust like the flash paper used by the bookies in the movies, but that was not the case. The paper did burn completely though, which was not the case with non nitrated paper. I tried 1 1/2, 2, and 3 F powder. All powders were shooting 4" to 6 " groups at 70 yards. I also noticed that my forehead was "spotted" after a trip to the range. Not seeing anyone shoot anything other than a Gong on U Tube, I wasn't sure if 4" to 6 " groups at 70 yards were normal. That's when I discovered that my 59 Sharps had a .56 caliber barrel and I was using .54 caliber bullets. I also discovered that the sliding ring on the barrel didn't slide and my gunsmith told me that it was pretty well frozen in place.
I was at a crossroads. Either hang the rifle on the wall or get it repaired to where it would shoot accurately. In my search on the internet, I read about the Hahn's device that would eliminate my sliding ring problem and make the rifle generally easier to use without altering the basic rifle. I had two blocks so if I wanted, I could always go back to the original style block. Charles Hahn also found a .54 caliber barrel insert and my barrel was relined to .54 caliber.
When I received my rifle from Charles, accuracy was better but not anywhere near what I wanted the rifle to shoot. I used Charlie's tubes, nitrated paper, and even loose powder in 1 1/2, 2, and 3 F. I didn't use the brass cases as they did not hold much powder. Charles Hahn said that I didn't need much powder but I hunt with a .54 Tryon Muzzle loader and I use 70 grains in 3F for accurate hunting loads. I could only get 40 grains of 1 1/2 F in the brass case. Charlie also said that a wad between the powder and the bullet would help. In order to get 40 grains of powder and a wad in the brass case (the brass was shortened for the new barrel) I had to compress the powder with a wooden dowel. At the range, the bench rested rifle began firing 1 1/2 inch groups and placed 4 shots in one hole with 40 grains of compressed 1 1/2 F Swiss powder. The chronograph read 925 fps average. This amounts to a 44 inch drop between 100 and 200 yards.
When I ram my round ball on top of the powder in my Tryon, I use a T handle so that I can compress the powder. In our BPCR's I compress the powder .1" to .2" in the case. Apparently the same works for the 59 Sharps. Now all I have to do is find a way to compress powder in a paper case without bursting the paper walls. Or use Charles Hahn's paper tubes or the brass cases.
I was fascinated at first touch. A rifle that loaded from the breach but required a cap to fire. The rifle came with two moulds, a bunch of brass cases, and two blocks. I and my wife have BPCR's and I load for them. I wanted to see if I could get the 59 shooting as well as the 1874 Sharps and My wife's roller.
I started by watching all the U tubes on loading and firing the 59 sharps. Then I checked out the U tubes on making the 59 Sharp's ammunition. I then read as much info as I could find on making ammo and firing and cleaning the Sharps 59.
I started with nitrated paper using Spectrcide Stump Remover and the same paper that I used for the paper patch bullets in my 74 Sharps. I expected to see the paper combust like the flash paper used by the bookies in the movies, but that was not the case. The paper did burn completely though, which was not the case with non nitrated paper. I tried 1 1/2, 2, and 3 F powder. All powders were shooting 4" to 6 " groups at 70 yards. I also noticed that my forehead was "spotted" after a trip to the range. Not seeing anyone shoot anything other than a Gong on U Tube, I wasn't sure if 4" to 6 " groups at 70 yards were normal. That's when I discovered that my 59 Sharps had a .56 caliber barrel and I was using .54 caliber bullets. I also discovered that the sliding ring on the barrel didn't slide and my gunsmith told me that it was pretty well frozen in place.
I was at a crossroads. Either hang the rifle on the wall or get it repaired to where it would shoot accurately. In my search on the internet, I read about the Hahn's device that would eliminate my sliding ring problem and make the rifle generally easier to use without altering the basic rifle. I had two blocks so if I wanted, I could always go back to the original style block. Charles Hahn also found a .54 caliber barrel insert and my barrel was relined to .54 caliber.
When I received my rifle from Charles, accuracy was better but not anywhere near what I wanted the rifle to shoot. I used Charlie's tubes, nitrated paper, and even loose powder in 1 1/2, 2, and 3 F. I didn't use the brass cases as they did not hold much powder. Charles Hahn said that I didn't need much powder but I hunt with a .54 Tryon Muzzle loader and I use 70 grains in 3F for accurate hunting loads. I could only get 40 grains of 1 1/2 F in the brass case. Charlie also said that a wad between the powder and the bullet would help. In order to get 40 grains of powder and a wad in the brass case (the brass was shortened for the new barrel) I had to compress the powder with a wooden dowel. At the range, the bench rested rifle began firing 1 1/2 inch groups and placed 4 shots in one hole with 40 grains of compressed 1 1/2 F Swiss powder. The chronograph read 925 fps average. This amounts to a 44 inch drop between 100 and 200 yards.
When I ram my round ball on top of the powder in my Tryon, I use a T handle so that I can compress the powder. In our BPCR's I compress the powder .1" to .2" in the case. Apparently the same works for the 59 Sharps. Now all I have to do is find a way to compress powder in a paper case without bursting the paper walls. Or use Charles Hahn's paper tubes or the brass cases.
Bringing the