Sewing machines

[major bill]

The Union alone needed over one million uniforms per year. To help supply needed uniforms sewing machines were used. Some 74 companies were manufacturing sewing machines at the start of the war. Tens of thousands of sewing machines were on hand at the start of the war and were widely used. With out this large number of sewing machines it would have been difficult for both sides to keep their soldiers in uniforms. The ready made clothing industry made a real contribution to the war.

 

[motorstreet]

OK, you teased me with an obscure but interesting fact. Where did this tidbit come from?

 

[major bill]

Allan Nevins' "The War for the Union" page 253.

I was just thinking of sewing machines because I am interested in a small point of Michigan uniform information. A reenactor is thinking of making a early war Michigan uniform but wants it all hand sewn so it is period correct. My issue with this is the merchant tailor who manufatued the uniforms had 100 workers and used 50 sewing machines. This would make me question if an all hand sewn reproduction uniform would be correct. Perhaps I am nick picking. Does anyone make reproduction uniforms using Civil War era sewing machines?

 

[Allie]

Allan Nevins' "The War for the Union" page 253.

I was just thinking of sewing machines because I am interested in a small point of Michigan uniform information. A reenactor is thinking of making a early war Michigan uniform but wants it all hand sewn so it is period correct. My issue with this is the merchant tailor who manufatued the uniforms had 100 workers and used 50 sewing machines. This would make me question if an all hand sewn reproduction uniform would be correct. Perhaps I am nick picking. Does anyone make reproduction uniforms using Civil War era sewing machines?

That's a good question! I used to sew (not for reenactment but just regular sewing) on a pre-electric Singer which I think was from the 1880's, but I don't know how that compared to even earlier machines, particularly commercial machines. The one I used, which sadly did not belong to me, was well-nigh indestructible, so I wouldn't be surprised if other early machines were still usable.

 

[Allie]

I found this nifty site on sewing machine history. They also talk about machines which did buttonholes.

http://www.sewalot.com/newton_wilson_sewing_machine.htm

This is from Wikipedia and has a creative common license. This is the exact machine I used to use sometimes. It wasn't much different from modern sewing except that you had to "push" the fabric through and your leg got tired. Some of the photos on the other page show factory workers using similar table machines.

 

[James B White]

Lock-stitch machines produce pretty much the same stitch as at the time of the war, the greatest noticeable difference often being the stitches per inch, which can be higher on period garments (one needs to look at an original to make sure it applies in a particular case of course). But modern machines, as far as I know, can do 15-20 stitches per inch.

Though lock-stitch was incredibly common, thanks to Wheeler and Wilson among others, one would need to look at an original garment also to see if it was lockstitch or chain stitch, and if I recall correctly, there were a couple different chain stitch methods. One might need to look for an older machine to duplicate some of them, but I've seen chain stitch on modern garments in places, so machines are apparently still being made. Again, though, the originals I've seen have a higher stitch count.

 

[MaryDee]

Do remember that sewing machines sewed only straight stitch in those days. A number of details still needed to be done by hand, especially seam finishes, buttons and buttonholes, gathering, and various tailoring details (I'm not that familiar with tailoring). However, I suspect that the only uniforms made entirely by hand would be officers' custom tailored uniforms (tailors seemed rather resistant to using machines). If your reenactor is an officer, he would be correct. If he's an enlisted man, probably not.

I learned to sew on a treadle machine, too! After yet another recent session resulting in very unladylike language about my modern machine, I wish I still had that old one!

I found references to treadle sewing machines during the Civil War in James C. Mohr, ed. The Cormany Diaries. University of Pittsburgh Press, 1982. Rachel Cormany's husband bought her one after he went off to war, so she could earn some money (difficult because her husband's family all seemed to think she should make their clothes for free). This was in, I believe, 1862.

 

[Allie]

Do remember that sewing machines sewed only straight stitch in those days. A number of details still needed to be done by hand, especially seam finishes, buttons and buttonholes, gathering, and various tailoring details (I'm not that familiar with tailoring). However, I suspect that the only uniforms made entirely by hand would be officers' custom tailored uniforms (tailors seemed rather resistant to using machines). If your reenactor is an officer, he would be correct. If he's an enlisted man, probably not.

I learned to sew on a treadle machine, too! After yet another recent session resulting in very unladylike language about my modern machine, I wish I still had that old one!

I found references to treadle sewing machines during the Civil War in James C. Mohr, ed. The Cormany Diaries. University of Pittsburgh Press, 1982. Rachel Cormany's husband bought her one after he went off to war, so she could earn some money (difficult because her husband's family all seemed to think she should make their clothes for free). This was in, I believe, 1862.

MaryDee, I've heard that about the straight seams, but it turns out not to be true. There was an American company which was selling buttonhole and overcast machines (which did only that, they would not do straight sewing) by 1863.

http://www.sewalot.com/american_sewing_machine.htm

 

[Allie]

Lock-stitch machines produce pretty much the same stitch as at the time of the war, the greatest noticeable difference often being the stitches per inch, which can be higher on period garments (one needs to look at an original to make sure it applies in a particular case of course). But modern machines, as far as I know, can do 15-20 stitches per inch.

Though lock-stitch was incredibly common, thanks to Wheeler and Wilson among others, one would need to look at an original garment also to see if it was lockstitch or chain stitch, and if I recall correctly, there were a couple different chain stitch methods. One might need to look for an older machine to duplicate some of them, but I've seen chain stitch on modern garments in places, so machines are apparently still being made. Again, though, the originals I've seen have a higher stitch count.

How high the stitch count is on a modern machine is a function of the setting. Mine will sew much more densely than 20 stitches per inch - it's an analog dial, it will sew in place if you set it to.

The thing about stitch width on a period machine is that it seems from what I'm reading that the walking feed dog wasn't invented, so fabric had to be fed manually. The needle itself sort of pulls the fabric along and you push with one hand, or on thicker weight fabric, pull with a hand from the back. I've done this, and what you end up with is different stitch width depending on how thick the fabric is.

 

[frankconrad]

I have a Wheeler and Wilson sewing Machine Made in 1873 which is the same model that they made in 1863. Its different but turning the drive pulley it runs so smooth. I don't have the base so can't actually sew with it Wish I could show a picture of it as it has a beautiful walnut case.

 

[James B White]

How high the stitch count is on a modern machine is a function of the setting. Mine will sew much more densely than 20 stitches per inch - it's an analog dial, it will sew in place if you set it to.

The thing about stitch width on a period machine is that it seems from what I'm reading that the walking feed dog wasn't invented, so fabric had to be fed manually. The needle itself sort of pulls the fabric along and you push with one hand, or on thicker weight fabric, pull with a hand from the back. I've done this, and what you end up with is different stitch width depending on how thick the fabric is.

As far as I know, Wheeler & Wilson at least had the feed dog. Haven't double-checked the ID of this machine, but here's someone who claims to have an early industrial one with a feed dog:

http://silkmothsewing.blogspot.com/2011/02/history-in-action-1859-wheeler-and.html

 

[major bill]

Oh great MaryDee, now I have to go back and research the Detroit tailors who made officer's uniforms. Actually one Detroit tailor made almost all of Michigan's early war uniforms. One thing I can do is read the ads in the newspapers. If the tailor was advertising to hire 5 experienced tailors or 3 cutters and 3 experienced sewing machine operators I will better understand how the officer's uniforms were made.

 

[johan_steele]

I have a Wheeler and Wilson sewing Machine Made in 1873 which is the same model that they made in 1863. Its different but turning the drive pulley it runs so smooth. I don't have the base so can't actually sew with it Wish I could show a picture of it as it has a beautiful walnut case.

 

[John Winn]

Wheeler & Wilson - way cool ! John Winn sold those after the war and, among the very few letters written by him that still exist, I have copies (the originals are in a library) of two written on W&W letterhead. The family legend had been that he sold Singers but the letters I found prove otherwise. Seems there was some sharing between the companies about a few things; don't remember right now the details.

 

[thomas aagaard]

The Union alone needed over one million uniforms per year. To help supply needed uniforms sewing machines were used. Some 74 companies were manufacturing sewing machines at the start of the war. Tens of thousands of sewing machines were on hand at the start of the war and were widely used. With out this large number of sewing machines it would have been difficult for both sides to keep their soldiers in uniforms. The ready made clothing industry made a real contribution to the war.

That pretty much goes goes against everything I read about the production of uniforms...(that they where mostly made by hand by women at home)

One fact is that all surviving uniforms from the Schuylkill Arsenal (Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot) appear to have been handmade.
More than one million union sackcoats came true there...

CJdaley got a story written by a Seamstress in 65.
http://www.cjdaley.com/strawberrygirl.htm
one interesting part:
A third, whose husband was then in the army, found the price of infantry-pantaloons reduced from forty-two to twenty-seven cents, — reduced by the Government itself—but she made eight pair a week, took care of five children, and was always on the verge of starvation. She declared, that, if it were not for her children, she would gladly lie down and die! A fourth worked for contractors on overalls at five cents a pair! Having the aid of a sewing - machine, she made six pair daily, but was the object of insult and abuse from her employer.
Using a machine was not seen as a positive thing.

 

[ole]

Among other things, Mother was tasked with was to make clothing. She did use a treadle Singer until the late 50s when making things was no longer required. The Dad bought her more modern stuff, but the need was gone.

Now you quilters might not that he bought her one of those tiny electic Singers. I got that, and gave it to an acquaintance quilter who knew how to use it.

Hanging on the wall in the master bedroom is a quilt she made with it. Very much worth the gift.

 

[James B White]

I learned to sew on an early 20th century White treadle machine, and later got a similar machine when I wanted to sew for my wife and myself, that turned into a small business for a while. I've never used an electric machine. Th treadle becomes second nature, you can sew as fast or slow as you want, it feeds automatically and well, and for historic sewing, when you only need straight seams anyway, there's no need for other stitches. Both machines had/have buttonholers, being long after the war, but I've never used them, finding them too "fiddly" and easier to do buttonholes by hand. I recall my mother using the buttonholer on the first machine, with much complaining, but she came from an era when you just did not hand sew (other than decorative embroidery type stuff) if a machine could do the job.

 

[major bill]

That pretty much goes goes against everything I read about the production of uniforms...(that they where mostly made by hand by women at home)

One fact is that all surviving uniforms from the Schuylkill Arsenal (Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot) appear to have been handmade.
More than one million union sackcoats came true there...

CJdaley got a story written by a Seamstress in 65.
http://www.cjdaley.com/strawberrygirl.htm
one interesting part:
A third, whose husband was then in the army, found the price of infantry-pantaloons reduced from forty-two to twenty-seven cents, — reduced by the Government itself—but she made eight pair a week, took care of five children, and was always on the verge of starvation. She declared, that, if it were not for her children, she would gladly lie down and die! A fourth worked for contractors on overalls at five cents a pair! Having the aid of a sewing - machine, she made six pair daily, but was the object of insult and abuse from her employer.
Using a machine was not seen as a positive thing.

That pretty much goes goes against everything I read about the production of uniforms...(that they where mostly made by hand by women at home)

One fact is that all surviving uniforms from the Schuylkill Arsenal (Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot) appear to have been handmade.
More than one million union sackcoats came true there...

CJdaley got a story written by a Seamstress in 65.
http://www.cjdaley.com/strawberrygirl.htm
one interesting part:
A third, whose husband was then in the army, found the price of infantry-pantaloons reduced from forty-two to twenty-seven cents, — reduced by the Government itself—but she made eight pair a week, took care of five children, and was always on the verge of starvation. She declared, that, if it were not for her children, she would gladly lie down and die! A fourth worked for contractors on overalls at five cents a pair! Having the aid of a sewing - machine, she made six pair daily, but was the object of insult and abuse from her employer.
Using a machine was not seen as a positive thing.

I checked my notes. Heinemann & Co of Detroit made the gray uniforms of the Fourth Michigan using 500 workers and 20 machines. While Sykes & Co. of Detroit made the blue uniforms for the Fifth Michigan using 400 workers and 100 sewing machines. By this I assume that the uniforms for the 4th were mostly hand sewn while the uniforms for the 5th were mostly machine sewn.

 

[MRB1863]

Highly interesting post! This thread kept me in stitches. I don't know much about sewing, just thought I'd post to needle you. BTW, my Grandfather worked in a silk mill repairing and operating looms. Much sewing was done there as the company also made shirts and other products.

 

[southern blue]

I remember reading somewhere that a lot of the soldiers preferred handmade clothes made by their mothers and sisters to the the ones they were issued.

My grandmother had an old treadle machine. My cousin still has it.