How to begin sewing and patterning

[Kirby the great]

Hello all, me and a friend are trying to learn sewing and patterning for our group, especially pattering for jackets. If anyone has any good sources or experience in the matter please do share so we can begin learning more. Thanks.

 

[Reconstructed Rebel]

All I can tell you is my grandmother's method was to completely take apart a worn out jacket that she knew fit my grandad and use that to cut cloth into pieces for a new jacket that she would then sew together like the old one. I don't know if that helps, but I wish you and your friend luck!

 

[captaindrew]

If you're looking for patterns I believe Charlie Childs at County Clothe is still selling patterns on his site. Can't get any better than that. He was the leader back in the day for authentic garments. Retired from making garments but as far as I know you can still get his patterns if you're using them for personal use.

 

[RedRover]

Ditto on C.R. Childs Patterns!

Chas.R.Childs/County Cloth

crchilds.com

I will also HIGHLY recommend Sandra Altman's "Past Patterns." She includes voluminous notes and illustrations on the assembly of original garments along with her patterns. From citizens trousers, vests and shirts, to Army trousers... Her instructions are in themselves like a course in period sewing, as she illustrates the hand stitches used where...

Past Patterns | Historical Clothing Patterns Since 1979

All of our patterns are either meticulously created by hand or selected for usage by our expert designer, Saundra Ros Altman.The Smithsonian, the National Archives...

pastpatterns.com

If you want to draft your own patterns, which can be done, the works of Mr. Devere were common in the 1850s and 60s.

Compaing and Devere's 1855 book on pattern drafting is online. When reading these, to save time in drafting a pattern he recommends what he calls "graduated rulers" in inches scaled up relative to the size of the pattern. However, when reading you will find that he gives instruction for just using a common inch-tape measure, etc on p. 28 of the 1st volume, and plate 11 of the 2nd volume...

1st Volume.

https://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth4399907_1151#mode/1up

2nd Volume.

https://reader.library.cornell.edu/docviewer/digital?id=hearth4399907_1152#mode/1up

Many use Devere's 1866 system, which is basically the styles of the 1860s in a handier single volume, with the illustrations and text combined. Used copies are pricey, but can be gotten through interlibrary loan perhaps. So far as I am aware, this is the volume most of the CW reenactment tailors have preferred to use.

Clothing seams were generally made using a "back stitch."

Buttonholes...

 

[RetiredCanuck]

Best advice I can offer is this:
Issue uniforms for enlisted men on both sides typically came in four sizes.
And they were typically made for men whose chest size was 4-6" larger than the waist.
If this does not match the intended recipient, you will have to alter any pattern to suit.

Use a pattern for your chest size and the neck/shoulders/arm length should work out.

Your jacket seam should line up closely with the side seam of the trousers.
Measure both the chest and waist in two stages front and back from the side seam.
In many cases those dimensions are not equal.
Measure your pattern as well and see where you need to add or subtract to accommodate.

It is also best to get an experienced sewer to do the person's measurements, even if they charge a fee. Under no circumstances should a beginner measure themselves. You will not do it accurately.

 

[Rhea Cole]

Go to your local sewing center & take classes. Until you have a grounding in the craft there is no way to grasp, properly interpret, & construct something that looks like a proper piece of clothing.

 

[RetiredCanuck]

I want to add one more detail I have mentioned before. There has been some debate over washing uniforms. That is a personal choice of course.
But if you do intend to wash your clothing at any time, you should wash, dry and press all the wool fabric, lining, interfacing and trim materials prior to cutting. That way the garment will retain its size and shape. Plus none of the trim colours will run.
IMHO in terms of difficulty in increasing order:
Shirts
Vests
Sack coat
Trousers
Shell jacket
Frock coats and greatcoats

If you are a beginner, shirts are good practice to learn stitching and the materials are cheaper in case you make any mistakes. Plus they are more forgiving on fit.

 

[RetiredCanuck]

This is not meant to offend but...
There is an actual Sewing For Dummies book as part of that series.
I'm an experienced sewer, but I bought a copy last year just for kicks.
It's actually quite good and explains the types of fabrics, the tools you need, various hand stitches and how to use patterns quite well.

There are many Youtube videos explaining pattern adjustment as well. Unfortunately most are centred around women's garments. The principals are the same however.

Once you finalize your patterns they will likely be used many times. Keep those for a master, as pinning to fabric will degrade them over time. Best to trace them out onto sturdier paper. I find that cheap gift wrap with the 1" grid on the back is ideal in weight and the grid is perfect for aligning alterations. If you are really ambitious, you could even use bristol board or masonite, which makes using a cutting wheel a fast and accurate process.

 

[The Ninth Ohio]

I have done this and have made some decent money selling finished garments.

Order Federal infantry fatigue blouse kit from Wambaugh and White. It has everything you need, fabrics, notions and instructions. You'll just need a needle and some patience.

This will show you how a version of the most commonly worn garment in the war was put together. It also clearly describes what stitches to use and where, so easily searchable online for the basics.

From there, purchase pants kit, drawers kit, tent kit, and federal shirt kit. The combination of those five garments will give you practice in basically every method you'll need to know, and give you a wide range of examples on how common garments were constructed.

I would recommend against trying to draft a pattern like others are suggesting unless you are copying from an original you have access to. Most garments that federals were issued came from fairly widespread or at least regional patterns. We know these exist and we know where to find them. So why not use patterns off original garments rather than fashioning something you think will fit and ends up looking like a vintage (nineteen) 60s pajama top?

 

[The Ninth Ohio]

That said, there is far more variety in CS clothing, but Wambaugh also has kits for them as well. A lot more variation to learn and take in for CS stuff.