Screwdrivers for Guns

Johnny676767

Private
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
Hello,

I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations on gunsmithing screwdrivers. I'm trying to repair a 1858 Starr DA but the screw slots are really thin. I figure a decent set would also allow me to better clean my other guns, too.

I found these as an option. What do you think? Any other ideas on brands or types?

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The Grace set are pretty much the standard and are of high quality.

I don't know if they have one with thin enough blade, I think so but I don't know for certain. That said a Grace set is well worth having.

I really should pick up a set, that's a good price.
 
One basic question is whether to buy a set of individual screwdrivers, or a set which used replaceable bits. Such a set will usually get you more of a choice of the driver handle, and also often a magnet that will not only magnetize the bit but also hold iron screws to the bit - that's a feature I value.
 
Wheeler sells a variety of sets depending on budget. I've used them for a long time for home smithing work.

Also, don't forget that a slotted screwdriver can be filed thinner—but ALWAYS make sure it fits the slot snugly.
 
Make your own.
For many older weapons, especially British ones, the screws were not 'off the shelf' but made for the gun. I have had to do this for several of the old guns I have collected (most were in a poor condition). Even mass produced military arms do not always have a screwdriver to fit them. The gunsmiths made their own screwdrivers - turnscrews - and included them in boxed examples. Modern flathead screwdrivers are wedge-shaped - flat ground - and do not always fill the slot for a good fit - hence the mass of damaged slots on older weapons - so file them to fit.
There is another answer as James above has said - the socket screwdriver bit. They are hollow ground, the ideal starter for turnscrews. They can be worked to fill the slot and to reach the bottom of the slot - the ideal fit. The only problem may well be the quality of the socket and handle as well as the stubborness of the screw! They also have the advantage of being fitted in a T-wrench for more torque

BTW - Older turnscrews were for 'new' screws, not ones damaged, rusted/pitted, seized or battered.
 
I agree with Jeff in Ohio. I would recommend a screwdriver set with separate bits and a socket-screwdriver handle. That way you can have and purchase multiple bits, some of which you can custom grind for the application. The bits are way cheaper than having multiple conventional screwdrivers. Mark Novak on Youtube uses the same tool as well.

I have an older set made by B-Square that is specifically designed for gun use. All the bits are hollow-ground so as to prevent marring the screw. The magnet in the tip of the handle is a boon for holding both the bit and the screw on the bit, but it has its drawbacks as everything that is ferrous will stick to it and annoyingly so. If you fudge around with it too much, I suppose it's possible to end up magnetizing the screw so that all those metal particles (like steel wool fibers) will stick to it too.

Did you purchase anything yet? Black Friday and Cyber Monday (and Cyber Week) was the time to do it although the deals are still continuing.
 
"David Arnold, the conservator at the Springfield Armory National Historic Site Museum in Springfield, Massachusetts says there are a few simple guidelines to help care for an antique gun – or a collection."

"Disassembly and Reassembly"

If you are organized and systematic you should be able to safely disassemble and reassemble most firearms successfully. First, probe the floor of every external screw slot with a sharp point held at a very low angle. It's amazing how much dirt can be packed into a clean-looking slot. All foreign matter must be removed for the screwdriver to do its best, safest work. A good selection of screwdrivers is a must.

Their tips must be matched perfectly to each slot in order to maximize the area of mechanical contact. Taking this precaution will minimize slippage and the scratching and scarring that can result. The internal shapes of screw slots have changed a lot since their invention and screwdriver tips often have to be ground or filed in order to get a good match. Keep this in mind when regrinding a screwdriver's tip. There are many publications that offer exploded drawings and disassembly/reassembly tips."
 
No, I haven't gotten a set yet. The set will be a Christmas gift. Hopefully, my wife took advantage of the Black Friday deals.

Thanks for the additional links and info on antique gun care. I hadn't thought about cleaning inside the screw slots first.

it may be a while before the repair to the Starr is complete, especially since I'm waiting for the screwdrivers before I can accurately identify the problem. However, I will update when I can.
 
If you are organized and systematic you should be able to safely disassemble and reassemble most firearms successfully. First, probe the floor of every external screw slot with a sharp point held at a very low angle. It's amazing how much dirt can be packed into a clean-looking slot. All foreign matter must be removed for the screwdriver to do its best, safest work. A good selection of screwdrivers is a must.
Also remember that there may well be years of neglect and corrosion around these old screws, paticularly flush-seated ones and they just do not want to move. I Have one hammer pin that, after a year, I still have not been able to get to move - no slips, no distortion but decades of rust and pitting. A hammer pin on another pistol took me three days of penetrant and 'tweaks' to finally get out. Patience and persistance is required.
 

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