Handguns Reproduction revolvers

[Jonl51]

I'm not aware of any, steel is exclusively used in all Italian replica revolvers. Why?

Hi Kirk. Thank you for the information. I assumed they would be steel, but only have one. The reason is I have a CS style revolver which appears to have an iron barrel and loading lever. The loading lever was rusted to the barrel and in trying to free it, ( gentle pressure with screwdriver ) the metal incurred some
shallow gouges. Not happy with myself, but steel would have only been
scratched. My point being if the gun was a repro, it would have a steel barrel. If repros can be ruled out then...... fingers crossed.
Thanks again.
John

 

[Kirk Womack]

Well, bear in mind that the reproduction revolvers use fairly soft steel. They're intended for black powder, after all. It doesn't take much to gouge or mark them up.

 

[Jonl51]

Well, bear in mind that the reproduction revolvers use fairly soft steel. They're intended for black powder, after all. It doesn't take much to gouge or mark them up.

Kirk, just experimented on my repro G&G using the same small screwdriver
and pressure used on the possible CS
revolver, it didn't even scratch the repro's barrel or loading arm. For what it's worth. Thank you for your help. Regards, John

 

[7thWisconsin]

You guys who carry a bp revolver: how long do you leave the cylinder loaded before you clear the charges?

 

[sourdough]

Well, bear in mind that the reproduction revolvers use fairly soft steel. They're intended for black powder, after all. It doesn't take much to gouge or mark them up.

Mr. Womack is spot on with his observations about replica revolver steel as manufactured, not iron. However, I would like to take exception to comments that the replica steel is soft enough to gouge the steel with a screwdriver insofar as it being "soft". Granted, it is not strong enough to handle modern day cartridge pressures when using a cartridge conversion cylinder on an Italian C&B revolver.

If you have any involvement with modern day 1911 .45 ACP pistols (modern steel), many have what has been termed as an "idiot scratch" on the left side of the frame, caused by an uneducated person not knowing how to properly reassemble the gun from a field stripped condition using the slide stop improperly.

Original Colt 1847 Walker guns had an iron cylinder left in the "white" because Colt feared bluing it would create heat treating problems.

The original Griswold & Gunnison revolvers used a heated twisted iron bar composition for the cylinders, which are sometimes very evident with a left-to-right twist on the cylinder, as viewed from the rear of the cylinder.

Just my $.02 worth.

Jim

 

[Kirk Womack]

Thank you gentlemen for clarifying something that I should have. When I say soft, I mean it's softer than the steel used in modern handguns(ie the Colt 1911). And in my experience, it is easier to put a ding or scratch in a Italian replica than a modern cartridge weapon. Of course, I imagine different manufacturers of replica revolvers over the years used varying grades and qualities of steel.

 

[Jonl51]

You guys who carry a bp revolver: how long do you leave the cylinder loaded before you clear the charges?

Hello 7th. Sorry for the delay in responding, it's just that I have no real first hand knowledge about your question. I have read ( somewhere ) that if the loaded revolver is kept dry
and properly stored, it can remain fully
functional for some time. How long " some time " is, who knows for sure, but shorter has got to be better than longer. Not much help, but other more
knowledgeable members should be along. Regards Jonl.

 

[Jonl51]

Mr. Womack is spot on with his observations about replica revolver steel as manufactured, not iron. However, I would like to take exception to comments that the replica steel is soft enough to gouge the steel with a screwdriver insofar as it being "soft". Granted, it is not strong enough to handle modern day cartridge pressures when using a cartridge conversion cylinder on an Italian C&B revolver.

If you have any involvement with modern day 1911 .45 ACP pistols (modern steel), many have what has been termed as an "idiot scratch" on the left side of the frame, caused by an uneducated person not knowing how to properly reassemble the gun from a field stripped condition using the slide stop improperly.

Original Colt 1847 Walker guns had an iron cylinder left in the "white" because Colt feared bluing it would create heat treating problems.

The original Griswold & Gunnison revolvers used a heated twisted iron bar composition for the cylinders, which are sometimes very evident with a left-to-right twist on the cylinder, as viewed from the rear of the cylinder.

Just my $.02 worth.

Jim

Thanks Jim, appreciate the info. From what I have observed and experimented with on my revolvers, there is a significant difference in at least surface hardness between the steel of my G&G repro and the iron (?)
on the Palfrey gun.
Best regards, John

 

[7thWisconsin]

Hello 7th. Sorry for the delay in responding, it's just that I have no real first hand knowledge about your question. I have read ( somewhere ) that if the loaded revolver is kept dry
and properly stored, it can remain fully
functional for some time. How long " some time " is, who knows for sure, but shorter has got to be better than longer. Not much help, but other more
knowledgeable members should be along. Regards Jonl.

I've read that too. Black powder shooting is a hobby full of myths and superstitions, and it can be kinda hard to sort them out. I may have to experiment on my own.

 

[sourdough]

Black powder is hygroscopic, in that it attracts moisture. That said, Jonl is correct if a loaded revolver is stored in a dry place. In my gun safe there are 2 large cloth bags of silica gel (about 2 cups each) on the top and bottom shelves. About every six months I take them out and heat them in the oven at about 150*F for 1/2 hour to drive out any moisture. I have left one revolver loaded for about a year stored this way and every chamber fired just fine. I must add that I live in SW WA State on the "Wet" side of the Cascades (about 65" rain on average every year), so if you live in a drier climate, all the better.

I cannot vouch for BP substitutes like Pyrodex.

Jim

 

[7thWisconsin]

I store my bp cans in our cellar, which isn't a swamp, but is one of the damper parts of the house, like in any old house. I've never had any problems with ignition in any of my guns.

 

[Jonl51]

Black powder is hygroscopic, in that it attracts moisture. That said, Jonl is correct if a loaded revolver is stored in a dry place. In my gun safe there are 2 large cloth bags of silica gel (about 2 cups each) on the top and bottom shelves. About every six months I take them out and heat them in the oven at about 150*F for 1/2 hour to drive out any moisture. I have left one revolver loaded for about a year stored this way and every chamber fired just fine. I must add that I live in SW WA State on the "Wet" side of the Cascades (about 65" rain on average every year), so if you live in a drier climate, all the better.

I cannot vouch for BP substitutes like Pyrodex.

Jim

Jim, sounds like you have a great method for keeping the powder dry. Thanks for sharing.
John

 

[Peter Stines]

For safety and cost, makers use steel.

 

[lawer dagget]

Just to spin my input. All answers are good. Moisture, humidity, etc.. I am from northern Arizona. We are dry in climate most of the time except during the monsoon season. I keep a loaded cap and ball as one of 3 get too guns. I have not tried it on a time span for more than 3 months. I also have never had a problem with firing, and my input would be. Why challenge it? Shoot it, clean it, and reload again.
They are always fun and enjoyable to fire.
I do the lube wad before the ball and then the Ox-Yoke wonder seal after the ball. Lighter load Yes. But chain fire is nothing to mess with.
I feel that no moisture will reach anything except threw the nipple itself. If capped and ready to shoot. I think moisture is no problem. But once again. I have never done more than 3 months.
Some load with the battlefield load. Powder and ball only. That's fine and dandy if they are comfortable with it. I don't want or desire too mess with a chain fire situation. My point is: If a possible chain fire is there? It's due to lack of seal. Hence the wording on moisture exposure. It's just a thought, no real theory behind it. A seal is a seal, a groove is a groove.
Bottom line: Shoot and reload. This is not a marathon on shelf time.

 

[lawer dagget]

My apology for jumping in on the tail end of this. The actual post got redirected and I fell in the groove.
My 36 cal Gen 2 Colt has the roller also.