Maintaining sword blade?

[Jaycalgary]

I have a really nice confederate civil war sword. Last year I think I made a mistake by putting olive oil on the blade. I read it online as good but I think it brought out more rust spots. I would like to know what would be best to remove the olive oil and put on the blade so no further corrosion will happen? It still is a fairly nice etched blade. Thanks Jay

 

[Albert Sailhorst]

I have used olive oil with no problems......I wish I knew what caused your hardships and how to best answer your question!!
Is it an original or a replica?

 

[Ingwe]

Museum wax (Renaissance wax).

Please see here the link below. I hope this is of help.

https://www.swordsus.com/sword-care---maintenance.html

 

[Billy Yank]

Keep it clean and free from moisture. Do not handle with bare hands. Use cotton gloves. Leave it alone.

 

[Patrick H]

Personally, I don't think you made a big mistake by putting olive oil on the blade. However, your blade might start to stink if and when the olive oil goes rancid on you, so don't trap it down in the scabbard! If you are seeing rust blooms coming out, I'll speculate you are seeing your own fingerprints underneath the olive oil. DON'T take any strong abrasives to the blade. DO apply some oil that won't go rancid on you: Mineral oil, gun oil, something of that nature--and apply it sparingly. Don't give the thing a bath. To repeat: No sandpaper. No coarse steel wool. If it were mine, I'd wash off the olive oil with mineral spirits and then apply a very light gun oil. Then, I would check it every couple of weeks and repeat the process as necessary.

After that, heed the aforementioned advice about keeping your skin oils off the blade.

You might also read up on Frontier Big 45 pads, which remove rust on old gun surfaces without removing blueing. They are probably gentle enough for your blade, but DO NOT plunge in. Experiment with them first. They are available online, and are big with vintage shotgun collectors. I have used them on various gun surfaces and would have no problem using them on a blade......but I have experimented. You do the same, please.

 

[Jaycalgary]

Thanks for the replies. I don't live where the sword is and have been away for a year. During that time I may have pictured the blade to be in much better shape than it real is. I think I will take the advice of cleaning the blade off with mineral spirits than gun oil. I won't be around for another year to see what the blade will be like. I have not used anything abrasive on the blade. Would like to see the spots gone but I shouldn't take the chance. One spot is doing a good job of eating through the blade though. Nice part is most of the deterioration is further down the blade and not ruining the etching.

 

[mikekj]

Museum wax (Renaissance wax).

Please see here the link below. I hope this is of help.

https://www.swordsus.com/sword-care---maintenance.html

I second this.......Also Johnson's Paste wax will do also.

I am a gunsmith and use these on some antique guns that have minimal to zero finish.

 

[gary]

I second this.......Also Johnson's Paste wax will do also.

I am a gunsmith and use these on some antique guns that have minimal to zero finish.

Agree. I worked in a fine arts museum. PH neutral, our objects conservators used it on wood, metal and leather.

 

[Patrick H]

I often use paste wax on my shop tools rather than oil. It works very well and seems to last longer. No reason it wouldn't do as well on a sword blade. I'm glad you guys recommended it. However, our friend should first do something to neutralize the rust on his blade.

 

[Jaycalgary]

I ordered some Museum wax (Renaissance wax). Any recommendations on how to neutralize the rust?

 

[Patrick H]

Yes. I recommended this previously. Here's a direct link to the site. I found out about these pads through the Parker Shotgun Collector's Association. Believe me, if those guys will use these pads on their five-figure shotguns, you have very little to worry about. Don't confuse them with similar looking products at the store. They are a proprietary alloy and you can only buy these online. They will scour off rust without scratching a blued or browned gun finish. I can't imagine they will scratch the blade of your saber. Use with a lubricant or solvent, such as gun oil or Hoppes #9. KEEP ALL LUBRICANTS AND SOLVENTS OFF YOUR HANDLE AND YOUR BRASS. When done scouring, clean the oil off with mineral spirits or turpentine. Let dry. Then wax the blade. In the meantime, soak the pad in hot soapy water several times until you get the oil out. Rinse well. Dry on an old newspaper. When dry, store where you can find it again.

I have used this product on an 1883 Parker shotgun and an 1873 Springfield trapdoor without damage to the gun finish (at least what remained of the finish). I have used it on my 1920's Remington model 51. I would use it on any gun I own. I would not hesitate to use it on the blade of a saber.

It is not steel wool and not even as aggressive as 0000 steel wool. It will not even remove the natural patina of the steel. It only scours away rust. Order two or three of them. Try them on something else that is rusty and see for yourself:

http://www.frontiermetalcleaner.com/

 

[Patrick H]

I'll add something obvious that everyone should understand and follow as a general practice: If you decide to use an oil or solvent in the process of removing your rust, you're going to have some dirty, oily rags or paper towels when you are finished. If you use any kind of scouring pad, the pad will contain oils and solvents, too. You can clean the pads, per my previous post. Or you can dispose of them. However, DON'T TAKE A CHANCE ON SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION! Store these rags or paper towels or scouring pads either under water in a bucket, or in an air-tight can, or even under a rock out in your yard somewhere, until you can throw them in the trash on trash pick-up day in your community. I am not kidding about this. Do NOT burn your house down with a pile of nasty paper towels that you carelessly forgot to remove from the premises. Now my conscience is clear. I have warned you about the dangers of spontaneous combustion.