1864 Springfield

[CWV]

Howdy….today is day 1 here, so here we go. I joined bcz I've been searching for folks who could tell me about an 1864 Springfield Rifle - Musket….it belonged to my grandfather who passed in 1978 at 93…in central Texas…I saw him last when he was 83 just before shipping out to Vietnam in 1968 and he said he wanted me to have his musket….then it was passed to my Dad who passed in 1986…now I'm 73 and restoring this relic. I'll post pics as soon as I know I'm in the right place / forum….many thx in advance for the kind 'welcomes' and for reading my backstory.

 

[Salterr]

Howdy….today is day 1 here, so here we go. I joined bcz I've been searching for folks who could tell me about an 1864 Springfield Rifle - Musket….it belonged to my grandfather who passed in 1978 at 93…in central Texas…I saw him last when he was 83 just before shipping out to Vietnam in 1968 and he said he wanted me to have his musket….then it was passed to my Dad who passed in 1986…now I'm 73 and restoring this relic. I'll post pics as soon as I know I'm in the right place / forum….many thx in advance for the kind 'welcomes' and for reading my backstory.

Welcome to the group! Once you post your pictures you'll absolutely get the answers you're looking for. There are many experts in a variety of topics here.

 

[scooter748driver]

Welcome from the Fort Sumter and the Fredericksburg forums.

Pics are necessary for us to help you with your Springfield. Looking forward to seeing them.

 

[captaindrew]

Welcome to the forum, you're in the right place.

 

[johan_steele]

All I'm going to say is Kramer's Best is your friend along with patience.

I look forward to the pics.

 

[Tanglewood]

All I'm going to say is Kramer's Best is your friend along with patience.

I look forward to the pics.

Ah yes, patience, often the scarcest ingredient. Don't rush the process.

 

[CWV]

 

[CWV]

...re patience, yes...that applies to my posts, as well, since I am still navigating the 'how to' details in this platform.... onward, the attached are representations of all bits AFTER extensive rust removal with copper scrubs...the stock was also caked with crud, so soap and water..then wood oil to refurbish. Primarily I am seeking your expert opinions on this rifle's authenticity and possible explanations of various 'proof stamps'....also from my limited research, the 'stock' might be in question since it has no discernable cartouche markings but it is original to my grandfather's 'pass down' to my Dad...plus, most all the pieces were in a separate cigar box, with the exception of the stock, barrel and bayonet which were 'wired together'.....these were cleaned with original 3 lock screws and tang screw replaced through supplier S & S Firearms...right, so standing clear....

 

[johan_steele]

It looks legit to me. Honestly, feed the stock with a half dozen coats of Kramer's and call her beautiful.

 

[CWV]

...also, found 7 lead balls measuring .5675 in the same cigar box.

 

[CWV]

It looks legit to me. Honestly, feed the stock with a half dozen coats of Kramer's and call her beautiful.

re Kramers, will do...

 

[johan_steele]

re Kramers, will do...

As a note either S&S or Lodgewood are likely to have the replacement sling swivels.

If you don't intend to shoot her Kramer's will also work just fine on the metal.

 

[Lanyard Puller]

Your Model 1863, Type 2 is also known as the Model 1864. A total of 255,040 were made from 1864 to 1865. It was the last U.S muzzle loading arm, before the use of breech loaders began. {Flayderman, 9th}

Aside from the stock having been heavily sanded, the old girl looks clean enough. I don't know of any "restoration" that would improve the appearance or value. The metal surfaces have been cleaned (to bright) in her past. Nothing to do there.

As for the wood I would highly recommend "Kramer's Best", which I use without hesitation on the rarest of CSA items.

For the metal; "Ballistol" is what most collectors use. It smells terrible but lasts on the metal surface for a very long time, does not run, and a very little goes a long way.

Search on the internet or check with College Hill Arsenal (Tim Prince) who carries a good stock of both.

 

[CWV]

Your Model 1863, Type 2 is also known as the Model 1864. A total of 255,040 were made from 1864 to 1865. It was the last U.S muzzle loading arm, before the use of breech loaders began. {Flayderman, 9th}

Aside from the stock having been heavily sanded, the old girl looks clean enough. I don't know of any "restoration" that would improve the appearance or value. The metal surfaces have been cleaned (to bright) in her past. Nothing to do there.

As for the wood I would highly recommend "Kramer's Best", which I use without hesitation on the rarest of CSA items.

For the metal; "Ballistol" is what most collectors use. It smells terrible but lasts on the metal surface for a very long time, does not run, and a very little goes a long way.

Search on the internet or check with College Hill Arsenal (Tim Prince) who carries a good stock of both.

Thanks for your observation notes and yes on Kramers....re the stock, I only 'cleaned' the stock with soap and water, no sanding but maybe Granddad did decades back....as I mentioned, it was in his barn and maybe was holding up a window, I don't know and the only restorative work I've done is 'cleaning rust' with copper scrubs and elbow grease...thx again.

 

[Salterr]

Your Model 1863, Type 2 is also known as the Model 1864. A total of 255,040 were made from 1864 to 1865. It was the last U.S muzzle loading arm, before the use of breech loaders began. {Flayderman, 9th}

Aside from the stock having been heavily sanded, the old girl looks clean enough. I don't know of any "restoration" that would improve the appearance or value. The metal surfaces have been cleaned (to bright) in her past. Nothing to do there.

As for the wood I would highly recommend "Kramer's Best", which I use without hesitation on the rarest of CSA items.

For the metal; "Ballistol" is what most collectors use. It smells terrible but lasts on the metal surface for a very long time, does not run, and a very little goes a long way.

Search on the internet or check with College Hill Arsenal (Tim Prince) who carries a good stock of both.

Would someone be able to share a before application picture and an after application picture of the two products? I've never used either but am curious to see it in action. Thanks!

 

[CWV]

Would someone be able to share a before application picture and an after application picture of the two products? I've never used either but am curious to see it in action. Thanks!

I use Ballistol on all my AR and XD weapons...but I've never used 'Kramers' but have heard great feedback...also, I did not take pics of my 'before' on the 1864 (my bad...) because it was a true mess with rust build up on every piece and truly I didn't know if I would ever be able to get it in a config to fire...so after using Ballistol and copper scrubs to assist in breaking down the rust, you can see the 'after pics' within this thread...it worked very well.

 

[CWV]

Your Model 1863, Type 2 is also known as the Model 1864. A total of 255,040 were made from 1864 to 1865. It was the last U.S muzzle loading arm, before the use of breech loaders began. {Flayderman, 9th}

Aside from the stock having been heavily sanded, the old girl looks clean enough. I don't know of any "restoration" that would improve the appearance or value. The metal surfaces have been cleaned (to bright) in her past. Nothing to do there.

As for the wood I would highly recommend "Kramer's Best", which I use without hesitation on the rarest of CSA items.

For the metal; "Ballistol" is what most collectors use. It smells terrible but lasts on the metal surface for a very long time, does not run, and a very little goes a long way.

Search on the internet or check with College Hill Arsenal (Tim Prince) who carries a good stock of both.

I have done some research online regarding this 1863 Type 2 rifle....but if you (or one of your colleagues) can share a 'book title' that would better describe this rifle's mechanics, I'd appricate any assistance....overall it is extremely well builit....so I would imagine the 'book' would be rather short. Also, I am a retired technical engineer on big iron aircraft, so I can work thru the various pieces, I just need a jump start in 'print'.

 

[Lanyard Puller]

I forgot to mention something for cleaning the metal. Yours' won't need it but if you ever need to clean up the metal on another gun
try; https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

The metal pad looks a bit scary but will NOT scratch or leave any color traces on the metal.

 

[CWV]

I forgot to mention something for cleaning the metal. Yours' won't need it but if you ever need to clean up the metal on another gun
try; https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

The metal pad looks a bit scary but will NOT scratch or leave any color traces on the metal.

Thanks again…! Actually my rifle that you see now in my pics was in really bad shape and heavily rusted when I removed it from my garage a few weeks back…it was already completely disassembled with its pieces in two very old cigar boxes…..so, all the pieces, including the lock…were inventoried against a diagram I found online bcz all 3 lock screws were incorrect lengths…were soaked & scrubbed with Billistol and copper pads…. so 'what you see now' is the 'after' condition bcz I wanted to return it to a 'fire ready' condition and I'm nearly there….now it's sourcing powder, Minie balls etc…..thx again for your support as CWT has a great team.

 

[CWV]

UPDATE...all rifle pieces, breech screw grease, bore butter, ramrods, etc....all received....with the last items being Musket Caps and .575 Minie balls, which are due this Wednesday.

So, my question...if it can be answered as a 'suggestion' versus a 'recommendation'...is powder...I did research and ordered / received just now 32 OZ (908 grams) of Pyrodex...since finding Goex black powder has proven to be more costly and problematic...so for now, I'll use the Pyro....for my 'live fire' range work...so based upon your experiences, is this Pyro a reliable propellant to be used...or....are there other 'suggestions'.....all comments will be appreciated. Thx in Advance.