Help making Homespun Kepi's more Authentic

[RedRover]

Take six!

Newest design with a revised pattern and construction method. designed to look like a confederate Cavalry Kepi.
(Fits very high on the head unlike my other designs... This guy probably understands.)
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The body and band are made of Cotton flannel. The band is machine sewn with no pasteboard stiffener. Instead, layers of muslin were added to give it a little more stiffness, without the constriction I felt with the pasteboard.

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The original use of pasteboard was inspired by the kepi I had, which had some thick stiffener in it. I wrongly assumed that is how originals were designed. However, looking at original photos, you see that they mostly are flexible, and bendable.
View attachment 502007View attachment 502008Images from Adolphus Confederate Uniforms


The new design uses more machine stitching which number 1. makes it easier for me to complete caps faster, but also number 2. allows for more firm construction. I lucked out while making this one, and sewing the front and back first didn't mess up the crown.

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The brim is made from leather painted black; whip stitched onto the front. The nonfunctional chin strap is made of a faux leather but serves the purpose. The buttons are wooden which I picked up from my local Joann's. It's what I had, so I used it.

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The lining is put together with cotton muslin, with a faux leather sweatband. Both are whipstitched to the body, and when wearing it, you'd never know.
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Altogether, best one by far. I would like to thank the owner of the "Caps and Kepi's" facebook page for helping with tools, tips, and pattern revision. I might make a couple smaller changes so I can do higher kepi's, or different band designs.

If I manage to get my pattern down, I will make sure to share it if anybody is even interested.


Sewing machines are wonderful,
-Seth

Practice makes perfect.

 

[captaindrew]

They're getting better all the time, keep at it. Nothing like practice and experience and you're making wise choices on your sources. If you haven't already, look through Greg Starbuck's Facebook page, Kepi Nation.

 

[SethJ]

Take Seven, and Eight!

Reb Artillery Kepi's. (Though, number two gives me more French vibes)

(I mean, I could easily make it one.)
Slightly revised pattern, slightly modified design, slightly more modifications to be done.


As far as number one with a grey and red color scheme.
Painted Canvas Chin strap (non-functional), bill, and sweatband. Two brass buttons (too large, but they work). Unbleached Cotton Muslin lining.
Partially machine sewn, with the hand sewn elements being the lining, crown, bill, and sweatband.

Number two with a red and blue color scheme.
Painted canvas bill, with a painted canvas sweatband. No chinstrap (because I was lazy). Unbleached cotton muslin lining.
All but the brim to the body is machine sewn.

I know after doing the second one that in some ways machine sewing is easier, and does have a better result... However, on the other hand, sometimes its a whole lot easier, and pleasing to the eye if you use hand sewing, mostly the sweatband, crown, and lining.

Until I want to do another,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Take nine!

Just a brown Kepi made of Cotton Flannel, a Blue nylon lining (Ran out o' muslin).

The bill, sweatband, and chin strap were from a cheap forage cap I disassembled, and then repurposed for the fun of it. The buttons were from an old double breasted frock coat that I turned into a questionable single breast. However, with leftover buttons, they served a new purpose.

Finally figured out what of my multiple patterns works the best, and have now submit myself to baggy linings until I can find a way to make it a little more uniform.

Needin' a thimble,
-Seth

 

[Missouri Swampfox]

See the "Confederate Sketch Book" for a design that was taken form an original.

 

[SethJ]

See the "Confederate Sketch Book" for a design that was taken form an original.

Tried, but couldn't get it at my library... I'll look for one I can purchase online.

 

[SethJ]

Take Ten!
Got me some Jean, and a little but more knowledge, and finished this project.

The body is made from some sort of bluish color Jean (I wasn't given the specific name o' the color). The lining is brown cotton flannel.

No chin strap, but the sweatband and bill are both made from genuine leather.

There is still a couple kinks I need to work out. Raising the lining a slight bit into the cap so the whip stitching is less visible. The pattern I made while putting on the bill was unintentional... but, looks fine to me. And there was more than one way of putting a bill on.

I'm starting to learn from all of my research on Kep's, looking at photos closely, and going over Adolphus Confederate Uniforms page.....
There doesn't seem to be a wrong way to build a kepi. Just depends on depot, or of its homespun, personal preference.

very happy about it all around.

Making another,
-Seth

 

[captaindrew]

Good job, they're getting better every time.

 

[SethJ]

Take eleven. My parade Kepi.

Made of the same sutler row fabric as the forage cap I made, but it works for now. The lining is cotton muslin, with a faux leather sweatband. The visor was more properly sewn on, so I have my new official way of doing it. The chinstrap is off my old dixiegunworks kepi.

Interesting part was the way the lining was sewn in. After looking at original photos, and the Russell instructions, I found a new way to put it in.

Works plenty fine, so I can't complain.

Wunderbar.
-Seth

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Keep it up. About 5 to 10 more you stand a chance of mastering it. You already got most all of it down.

 

[SethJ]

Keep it up. About 5 to 10 more you stand a chance of mastering it.

Got one in the works at this very moment. Not my best, but pretty good in my opinion. I plan to sell it at a cheap enough price to get some more materials.
Thank you!

 

[7thWisconsin]

I like the look of that parade kepi. That´s a nice looking hat. In the early 2000s, somebody was making kepis and fatigue caps in modern camo materials - sort of as a joke. I had one in rip-stop BDU pattern that I used to wear in the car to events and setting up before I changed. Later on it lived in my paintball gear cuz it was a cool hat to wear when I didn´t have a mask on. You could try making a few of those and offering them for sale too. People will buy a novelty and you still get sewing experience.

 

[SethJ]

I like the look of that parade kepi. That´s a nice looking hat. In the early 2000s, somebody was making kepis and fatigue caps in modern camo materials - sort of as a joke. I had one in rip-stop BDU pattern that I used to wear in the car to events and setting up before I changed. Later on it lived in my paintball gear cuz it was a cool hat to wear when I didn´t have a mask on. You could try making a few of those and offering them for sale too. People will buy a novelty and you still get sewing experience.

These?

I have old fatigues... think I'll start that as soon as I finish this other cap.

 

[SethJ]

Take 12. First cap I'm trying to sell.

I don't expect anybody here to buy it, but I'm asking 60+shipping. It's not my best work, but it's more accurate than any sutler row piece.
Only reason im asking for 60 is because it's enough for me to get a couple yards of oilcloth for more (and better) caps.

The pattern has been slightly modified sense this one... and, I'll tweak it a little more again.

This cap is a bluish grayish/tan cap, with a cotton muslin lining.

The visor and sweatband are painted canvas. Home-made modgepodge made working with the canvas much better.

Some problems with this one are the misaligned back end. A problem with the back of the band not being completely flat thanks to the lack of room to press it down better. The top isn't put on perfect, but I did find out a flaw it it, and it's already looking better with the next caps I've been working on.

Already got other more "odd" caps in progress. Hopefully I'll be able to sell this and them. I could use the money

Just another hat
-Seth

 

[Palmetto1862]

Take Ten!
Got me some Jean, and a little but more knowledge, and finished this project.

The body is made from some sort of bluish color Jean (I wasn't given the specific name o' the color). The lining is brown cotton flannel.
View attachment 506945

No chin strap, but the sweatband and bill are both made from genuine leather.
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There is still a couple kinks I need to work out. Raising the lining a slight bit into the cap so the whip stitching is less visible. The pattern I made while putting on the bill was unintentional... but, looks fine to me. And there was more than one way of putting a bill on.

I'm starting to learn from all of my research on Kep's, looking at photos closely, and going over Adolphus Confederate Uniforms page.....
There doesn't seem to be a wrong way to build a kepi. Just depends on depot, or of its homespun, personal preference.

View attachment 506946very happy about it all around.

Making another,
-Seth

You can't go wrong with oilcloth on a Confederate kepi! This is one I got from Greg Starbuck in 1997. I dyed the grey jean a bit with black tea. Those are looking nice—keep up the good work!

 

[SethJ]

You can't go wrong with oilcloth on a Confederate kepi! This is one I got from Greg Starbuck in 1997. I dyed the grey jean a bit with black tea. Those are looking nice—keep up the good work!

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Would that happen to be wool or polished cotton on that there band good sir?

 

[Palmetto1862]

Would that happen to be wool or polished cotton on that there band good sir?

It's wool—I'd like to know where Greg found the material; I haven't seen much of that shade of French blue out there.

 

[SethJ]

Kepis in the works. Nothing too special.

One that resembles a Richmond Depot color palette (or new York Zouave's), and the other is a dark jean.

That's all.

Kepi,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Took a long break... In that time, I managed to find some proper canvas, dye, and leather... Now, I present...

Rebel Artillery Kepi.

Dark jean body, Woolen crown and band, muslin lining, leather chinstrap and sweatband, with dyed canvas visor.

As I say with all of my Kepi's... this one was probably my best. I have a couple others in the works at the moment, but I figured I'd share this considering it's one I'm very proud of...

In fact, I'm going to try and sell this one and see if I can get some money to invest into the cap making hobby.

Thanks for taking the time to read,
-Seth

 

[RedRover]

Took a long break... In that time, I managed to find some proper canvas, dye, and leather... Now, I present...

View attachment 527380

Rebel Artillery Kepi.

Dark jean body, Woolen crown and band, muslin lining, leather chinstrap and sweatband, with dyed canvas visor.

View attachment 527379

As I say with all of my Kepi's... this one was probably my best. I have a couple others in the works at the moment, but I figured I'd share this considering it's one I'm very proud of...

In fact, I'm going to try and sell this one and see if I can get some money to invest into the cap making hobby.

Thanks for taking the time to read,
-Seth

Looks good. I would just note that the double thickness of cloth on the band is unnecessary... where you have the seam.

On originals there is a strip of pasteboard, or stiff canvas or buckram laid in the inside of the band, and the lower edge of the band (the red cloth) turned up over it and whipped to it.



Interior of one without either the lining or the sweat band... with the paste-bard interlining of the band visible.

Then the interior lining whipped to the turned in edge of the band cloth before the sweat band is put in:

Sweat band put on...

And one with the inter-lining of the band, in this case paste-board, visible...

On this one the paste-board visible in the crown, and the band.