Kepi Braid Pattern and Materials

[SethJ]

Greetings,

Just about everybody who studies or is interested in the Civil War, knows of the braiding on Uniforms, Forage caps, and possibly the most diverse, Kepi's.

And while we see many variations in both Union and Confederate Kepi braiding, I am most interested in the golden braiding on Confederate Kepi's.


My question concerns the type of metallic braid used for its construction, if any patterns for making these designs exist, and where I can get my hands on materials for making these braids on kepis, or even forage caps.

Any extra advice will also be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Seth

 

[Package4]

Greetings,

Just about everybody who studies or is interested in the Civil War, knows of the braiding on Uniforms, Forage caps, and possibly the most diverse, Kepi's.
View attachment 498662View attachment 498663View attachment 498664View attachment 498665

And while we see many variations in both Union and Confederate Kepi braiding, I am most interested in the golden braiding on Confederate Kepi's.


My question concerns the type of metallic braid used for its construction, if any patterns for making these designs exist, and where I can get my hands on materials for making these braids on kepis, or even forage caps.

Any extra advice will also be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Seth

Just know that braiding on CS caps is virtually 100% gold or silver metallic braid and not soutache as may be found on reenactment pieces and some Federal caps.

 

[captaindrew]

Needle and Thread in Gettysburg carries it

 

[RedRover]

Here's the 1859 template from the Marine Corps uniform regulations.

From the CS Army regulations, Gold metallic braids of 1/8-inch were evidently the standard for the coat sleeves and caps.

 

[SethJ]

Here's the 1859 template from the Marine Corps uniform regulations.


View attachment 498740

From the CS Army regulations, Gold metallic braids of 1/8-inch were evidently the standard for the coat sleeves and caps.

View attachment 498738
View attachment 498737

This may be a dumb follow up question, but how exactly is it sewn on. I've been looking at images of originals, and I don't see very many stitches holding it to place. In some images I don't see any stitches at all. If they were sewn on a stitch every so 1/? stitch, or if they were stitched on in a way that hid the thread in the back.

(Only a stitch every little bit?)

(My bad eyes can't see any stitches)

 

[RedRover]

or in other words...

This is a prick stitch, not a running stitch, meaning that there's no need to show the stitch on the outside, or in other words it is practically put back through where it came out, etc.

using fine metallic thread like that of the braid (or similar colored silk thread) would make it practically invisible.

 

[Package4]

This may be a dumb follow up question, but how exactly is it sewn on. I've been looking at images of originals, and I don't see very many stitches holding it to place. In some images I don't see any stitches at all. If they were sewn on a stitch every so 1/? stitch, or if they were stitched on in a way that hid the thread in the back.

View attachment 499132
(Only a stitch every little bit?)

View attachment 499137
(My bad eyes can't see any stitches)

Disregard the cap at the top, if that is purported to be a CS kepi, it is either a fake or the soutache was added later, as previously stated soutache is rarely if ever found on CS kepis and is rare on US. Flat metalic braid is used on almost 100% of CS and 98% of US.

 

[Package4]

This may be a dumb follow up question, but how exactly is it sewn on. I've been looking at images of originals, and I don't see very many stitches holding it to place. In some images I don't see any stitches at all. If they were sewn on a stitch every so 1/? stitch, or if they were stitched on in a way that hid the thread in the back.

View attachment 499132
(Only a stitch every little bit?)

View attachment 499137
(My bad eyes can't see any stitches)

When I get time, I will take a few pictures showing how the braid is sewn.

 

[Package4]

This may be a dumb follow up question, but how exactly is it sewn on. I've been looking at images of originals, and I don't see very many stitches holding it to place. In some images I don't see any stitches at all. If they were sewn on a stitch every so 1/? stitch, or if they were stitched on in a way that hid the thread in the back.

View attachment 499132
(Only a stitch every little bit?)

View attachment 499137
(My bad eyes can't see any stitches)

This is zoomed in, to the naked eye, these stitches are virtually invisible.

 

[Package4]

Different cap, but you can see where this seamstress used more stiches to the inch, in the middle of the braid, even so the braid still rolled.