Homespun Forage Cap

[SethJ]

Take one!
Making yet another cap.

This forage cap was made from Blue Cotton flannel, with red cotton flannel for the red "crown". An attempt at an "artillery style" forage cap, possibly gone wrong.

The sweatband is made from thin leather, same stuff was used with the chin strap. I was running low on leather, so when I found an old box with the exact type of leather I needed, I was extremely happy. I lacked proper brass buttons, so I used brass fasteners, seeing as they were the closest thing I had.

The bill was made from a single piece of thick leather, conditioned, and then painted. The only thing I had at the moment was acrylic paint, and so I rolled with it. Not shiny enameled paint like I would have preferred using, but when life gives you lemons, make lemon pie.

The lining was a large portion of left over fabric from an old project, which I used for a sinched up, for a bag like lining, most commonly seen in confederate Kepi's if my research is correct.

For a first attempt, I'd say it was "decent". Although, I know many of the problems which I can fix for the next one I make. Which I'm starting, even as I write this.

Personally, I'm putting it on the forum to categorize the process of my attempts.
I would like to thank @Package4 for a few material recommendations, most notably "buckram" for the stiffener.

Until another project is done,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Take Two!
Second cap complete.

Based on the 20th Maine Forage cap.
As the last one, I used blue cotton flannel for the body, and red cotton flannel for the "Maltese cross". (admittedly, that wasn't perfect either... Welcome to being an amateur )

There is unfortunately no sweatband, and the chinstrap was borrowed from the last one because... well, simpleton me forgot to check my leather box, and it turns out, I am now all out. Wonderful...
I did end up using brass fasteners again because I have no extra buttons... In fact, I still need to figure out what kind of buttons to use. I might just end up buying some standard bone/wood buttons to use.

The bill was the same as the last one, cut in the same size, but it was a bit cleaner cut than the last one. No enamel paint yet, so I'm still using black acrylic. Making more Lemon Pie.

The lining is more inaccurate material, but it beats ordering a lot of expensive material for "test" projects. Same sinched bag style lining as the last... Didn't bother showing it, but if you just take a look at the last post, you'll see the kind of lining I used, and how I did it.

Second attempt turned out much better, in of course, my opinion.
The welt was fixed, and the white thread holding in my stiffener is raised higher like the original.
Based only on a 20th Maine cap, as I said. No artillery red, or Cavalry yellow this time. Next project (When I get to it) will probably be a confederate cavalry cap.

Continuing to sew,
-Seth

 

[RedRover]

It is indeed always best to experiment with cheaper materials!

 

[SethJ]

It is indeed always best to experiment with cheaper materials!

Indeed, indeed. I have some family that used to make repro. cartridge boxes, cap pouches, and other leathers. One of them told me they used their good leather for a test pattern, and managed to waist almost all of it... Kind of used that as an example to buy cheaper fabrics until I'm ready to sell.
The cotton flannel may be usable for selling reb Kepi's and such...

 

[SethJ]

Take three!
As stated previously, Confederate Cavalry variant...

Made using grey cotton flannel, with yellow cotton flannel for the yellow welt., with cotton thread for (most) visible stitches. A nylon thread was used for any seams that are support, or (most) nonvisible stitches.

The lining was made of old material (It's becoming a recurring theme, isn't it?), with a faux leather sweatband.

The visor is a poorly painted thick cut of leather. Not perfect, not pretty, but it works, so I won't complain. One of the things I was missing on all of my previous designs was the welt above the brim. While this was one iffy to put on, I think I may have figured out a better method for putting on the next go around.

The top was made with a thin, more flexible piece of cardboard, which actually gave it a more comfortable feel when wearing it.

Next up, if I have material, will be a Union Forage cap with officers stripes... Possibly Generals markings just because I can.

Hoping leather smell doesn't damage my nostrils,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Take Four!
Decided a Union Forage cap wouldn't be fun, and generals braiding would take too much of my meaningless time.
So, I made a Rebel Lieutenant's Forage cap in something close to Butternut.

Thanks to members like RedRover and Package4, I was able to get an idea of how to do the braiding. Not perfect, and most definitely not with the right braid, but it kind of worked. You can easily tell where I started and stopped the braid.

However, in the end, I got something I was decently happy with.

The body is made of Cotton Flannel, in a color something close to butternut. The welt unfortunately didn't turn out ideal, but if I roughed it up some, I suppose that wouldn't really matter.

The chin strap is made from canvas, painted black on one side, and held on with two (a little to large) shank buttons. Its better than using the leather that I am running low on. The bill of the cap is made of the same painted canvas, made with two pieces sewn together, than sewn directly to the pasteboard bill.

The body is made of unbleached cotton muslin, with a canvas sweat band, painted on only one side. Surprisingly comfortable.

In the end, I was very happy with the end product. Using different materials than I usually would, and with a better visor, not made out of the same material as the body.
No current plans for the next one, but when that happens, it'll be shown here.

My fingers are hurting,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Take Five.

Frankly, the Kepi I had during my first event wasn't bad, but I like the look of a forage cap. Considering I had the sleeves of that old sack coat after converting it to a vest, I decided I would make a replacement forage cap.

Made out of the sutler row wool, with the parts of an old sutler row cap, I put together this cap. Mostly machine sewn, and with a lot of visible seams. Honestly, considering some of the caps people have, I think it's decent.

The visor has some damage. Nothing a very accurate sharpie marker can't fix! Maybe I'll get some glossy stuffs to go over it.

The insides are... very bad. The lining was sewn on top... questionably. The bottom of the lining was sewn on with the fancy stitching that is seen on the outside. The sweatband was machine sewn in, and wasn't long enough for it to go all the way around. Won't complain too much though.

Frankly, I'm happy with it considering the fact that I'll have a forage cap for my next event. I plan on eventually purchasing one from Russel Omsonoksi (spelled that wrong)

Bayonets,
-Seth

 

[SethJ]

Take six.
I think I may have cracked the code... for the welt at least.

USSS Forage cap. First thing to mention, is yes, the fabric is a light emerald green color instead of the Forrest green that would have been used. I work with the wool I have.
This cap was made while I was out of town, so I didn't have leather. Next best thing? Thick paste board painted black and then glossed. Looks almost the same.

The cap is not perfect of course. The first thing you will see is the seam on the bottom. Yes, yes, I used the sutler row method of sewing the lining to the body using a single seam on the bottom. However, thankfully, I examined some period photos, and have a good idea of what to do for next time.

The lining should be brown polished cotton, but sense I didn't have that, I used this nice fabric I found at my families house. No sweatband, as I didn't have leather. I attempted to used thick paper, but while sewing it on, the paper ripped... didn't exactly seem worth it, so I abandoned it.

By far my best forage cap. The construction is much easier to do with a sewing machine if done properly. The main problem with my old welts, compares to how I did this one, was that giving the seam allowance, WAY too much. This caused the top to be smaller, which messed with the entire construction.

Notes for my next cap are as follows:

1. Whip stitch the lining to the body, after body has been folded up and pinned. May need to sew extra band around the body to hide the whipstitching.

2. You can pull off the seam around the cap. I hate this seam. It is annoying to try. But, forsaking my sanity, I'll try.

3. Smaller stitches on the corps badge. Shouldn't have so many large visible stitches!

4. Make sure the lining is not showing while being worn. This will take away from it.

5. Give yourself a little more seam allowance near the bottom to prevent the body from awkwardly extending out. Takes away from the cap as a whole.

6. Make. Sure. You. Have. Leather.

Cheers,
-Seth