Timeless Stitches sewing patterns

[captaindrew]

Great tip on the alternative material. Thank you. The beauty of having the pattern is I can sew as many shirts as I want made from various materials.

Here's the variant contract shirt, it's more of a civilian looking pattern and the material is a grey flannel. A buddy of mine has one and it's a way softer and more comfortable fabric. Not sure what they call it, I looked and W&W doesn't have that fabric listed for sale, maybe an email to them and ask exactly what that fabric is. https://wwandcompany.com/contract-variant-federal-issue-shirt/

 

[RedRover]

Here's the variant contract shirt, it's more of a civilian looking pattern and the material is a grey flannel. A buddy of mine has one and it's a way softer and more comfortable fabric. Not sure what they call it, I looked and W&W doesn't have that fabric listed for sale, maybe an email to them and ask exactly what that fabric is. https://wwandcompany.com/contract-variant-federal-issue-shirt/

B. Black and sons used to sell woollen flannel. Its kind of pricey.

 

[Mrs. V]

I do all of my "test" (muslin) bodices using old sheeting material. Once it fits, you take it apart and trace the pattern out on either butcher paper, or wax paper. That way you have a copy that will hold up better than regular tissue paper. Then you use the original "muslin" as your lining for the bodice.

I will tell you that these garments "go together" differently from modern garments, and you may need to do some hand sewing to get things to fit properly together. (I'm looking at you, underarm gussets! )

If you have questions, you can always send me an email. Not an expert, but I do make my own clothes!

 

[captaindrew]

What he's making should be all hand sewn

 

[Mrs. V]

What he's making should be all hand sewn

It is acceptable to sew the seams that won't be seen with a machine, they had them back then. (Chain stitch), but you are correct, if it's top stitch or button holes they need to be done by hand, as well as any hemming.

I only use the machine for "long seams" and everything else is applied by hand. I find hand sewing to be very calming.

 

[d.perry]

If you have questions, you can always send me an email. Not an expert, but I do make my own clothes!

Thank you for the offer.

 

[captaindrew]

It is acceptable to sew the seams that won't be seen with a machine, they had them back then. (Chain stitch), but you are correct, if it's top stitch or button holes they need to be done by hand, as well as any hemming.

I only use the machine for "long seams" and everything else is applied by hand. I find hand sewing to be very calming.

There's not much hiding with shirts and drawers, those originally were typically completely hand sewn, it's a matter of how correct you want them to be. Might as well strive for 100% Jackets and trousers yes, you can machine sew the hidden seams and many of the Federal garments did have a mix of machine and hand sewing. Confederate stuff not so much although there are a few examples of original jackets that did had some machine sewing. But for the most part Confederate stuff was completely hand sewn.

 

[d.perry]

Since these garment projects are for federal, I would like to focus on federal materials and construction methods. I have read sewing machines existed approximately 10 years prior to the ACW, but the need during the war made them more popular. These early machines made a chain stitch. I could make the assumption that federal drawer and shirt contractors used sewing machines, but without research that may result in a reenactorism misjustice to history. Sewing Machines have been discussed on these forums in the past.

I have done some basic searches, and this is what I have found:

• https://millmuseum.org/sewing-revolution/
• https://americancivilwarvoice.org/2014/06/03/the-sewing-machine-and-the-civil-war/
• https://www.familysearch.org/en/blog/1860s-fashion
• https://acws.co.uk/archives-misc-sewingmachines

As always, I am always open to information backed up by evidence. I could conjecture that a contractor making drawers and shirts for the US may have machine sewn the major seams then finishing details such as buttonholes by hand. I cannot find any information if a worker 100% completed a garment or if there was an assembly line procedure where each worker sewed a certain seam then handed off to the next worker.

Getting back to the 21st century and my capabilities, I plan to use a machine on the major seams then finish the buttonholes by hand on the first couple. From that point once I am comfortable with the construction process, I will try a completely hand sewn version.

 

[RedRover]

Since these garment projects are for federal, I would like to focus on federal materials and construction methods. I have read sewing machines existed approximately 10 years prior to the ACW, but the need during the war made them more popular. These early machines made a chain stitch. I could make the assumption that federal drawer and shirt contractors used sewing machines, but without research that may result in a reenactorism misjustice to history. Sewing Machines have been discussed on these forums in the past.
en finish the buttonholes by hand on the first couple. From that point once I am comfortable with the construction process, I will try a completely hand sewn version.

Chain stitch sewing machines were popular, but they were not for men's garments particularly. the most popular was the Wilcox and Gibbs, which was for "family" sewing, particularly men's drawers, shirts, childrens clothing, etc. etc. their advantage was simplicity, having no bobbin to thread up, etc. Disadvantage, they require particular glace type threads to operate effectively. These machines were great machines for what they did. Stopped making them in the 1940s.

On the right side the stitch looks just like a lock stitch machine stitch, but on the inside, it looks like this:

The Federal government did not want chain-stitched garments. You see, while the stitch itself is pretty strong, if you unravel one end of it, and pull, you can unravel the whole seam. This was a recurring joke in the Three Stooges... demonstrating the shoddy make of their clothing...



The lock stitch machines were around, and made the same lock stitch as today, with the stiching looking the same on both right and wrong sides of the seams; namely the Singer types. The Model A from 1859 was a winner.

The wartime designs were even more efficient.

The more popular models were the Singer

And the Wheeler and Wilson:

The Grover and Baker machines made a unique stitch, sort of a cross between a chain and lock stitch. There's a Confederate army jacket around with G&B machine stitching throughout, and there is another entirely made up by a chain stitch machine (talk about last ditch):

CSA jacket, chainstitched

From Paul McKee's "Notes on the Federal Issue Sack Coat," Military Collector and Historian, XLVII, 2, Summer, '95:
The Federal quartermasters disliked machine stitching, but it is found on many original garments, particularly contractor made:

Machines were used on the common army forage cap too:

Kloster, US Army headgear, 1855 on...


Hand work was still most common. From a wartime complaint about the pay for needle women in the trades:

 

[d.perry]

Thank you RedRover for the great information.

 

[Dan Kohli]

Is the patterns of shirts that were produced by Schuylkill Arsenal/ the Government, then they were required to be of all hand sewn construction. The contractor made issue shirts were more commonly machine sewn.

I apologize if I am repeating other people who posted above.

 

[d.perry]

Moving to the next step, picking the fabric. For the drawers I will use white cotton muslin or flannel sourced locally. For the homespun shirt there are many options. I am considering one of these three. This was my first order from B&B Tart and delivery was ultra quick.

 

[Mrs. V]

I quite like the goldburough plaidand the Cooper check. rich colors.

 

[d.perry]

I quite like the goldburough plaidand the Cooper check. rich colors.

Looks like only the Gash and Cooper Check are currently available. My patterns call for 2 yards per shirt. I may purchase 3 yards, have extra and possibly make some misc. bags.

Cloth

 

[Mrs. V]

Looks like only the Gash and Cooper Check are currently available. My patterns call for 2 yards per shirt. I may purchase 3 yards, have extra and possibly make some misc. bags.

Cloth

I'm a fan of that cooper check. A different take on the red battle shirt you see so often. Plus I think it just looks "rich" and it wants to be a nice shirt. And yes, I see fabric in terms of "what it wants to be"..

 

[SewingGuy]

Hello guys, I found this https://parts.jacksew.com/hanging-roller-strt-guide-generic-mah-15201-0a0/ just wondering if anyone knows if it would fit a Juki 441?



I was was also thinking to upgrade my machine and found those guys selling a similar one for around $5K: https://www.jacksew.com/highlead-ga2688-1-single-needle-extra-heavy-duty-shuttle-hook-16-5-cylinder-arm-compound-walking-foot-sewing-machine/



Also did anyone have any experience ordering from Jacksew?

 

[d.perry]

Hello guys, I found this https://parts.jacksew.com/hanging-roller-strt-guide-generic-mah-15201-0a0/ just wondering if anyone knows if it would fit a Juki 441?



I was was also thinking to upgrade my machine and found those guys selling a similar one for around $5K: https://www.jacksew.com/highlead-ga2688-1-single-needle-extra-heavy-duty-shuttle-hook-16-5-cylinder-arm-compound-walking-foot-sewing-machine/



Also did anyone have any experience ordering from Jacksew?

I do not have your answers.
I am still using vintage domestic sewing machines. My mainline machine is a Singer Model 15 from the 1950's.
It looks like your Juki is a leather sewing machine?? Looks like a modern version of the Singer Model 29.

 

[SethJ]

It is acceptable to sew the seams that won't be seen with a machine, they had them back then. (Chain stitch), but you are correct, if it's top stitch or button holes they need to be done by hand, as well as any hemming.

I only use the machine for "long seams" and everything else is applied by hand. I find hand sewing to be very calming.

Wait you mean its fully acceptable to make accurate clothing with a sewing machine...

I feel like an idiot now.

 

[PrivateBrooke]

Wait you mean its fully acceptable to make accurate clothing with a sewing machine...

I feel like an idiot now.

Personally I would only do this with a treadle machine(that's what period machines were), but yes, it is acceptable. Recent evidence has suggested the Confederate depots used machines extensively(although not exclusively) in clothing production.

 

[Trooper "D"]

If you just need the army drawers pattern, you can get it from Charles R. Childs:

County Cloth/C.R. Childs: army patterns, drawers...

Sources for the "canton flannel" for army drawers (a sturdy cotton flannel) include Childs, Wambaugh, and Tart.

The drawers pattern you see online from Timeless, judging solely by the image of the finished piece, looks like a pair of scrubs with some old timey modification.
As regards their shirt pattern, according to the listing, and this review, it is evidently just "old timey" and is not based on anything specifically civil war...

Pattern Review...

Though I personally have no experience with their patterns, so cannot judge their patterns or instructions, etc. I will just share that my own experience with sutlery costume patterns nearly convinced me that sewing garments was difficult. tailor's patterns (like Childs) are cut for the pieces to actually fit together, and convinced me to keep on stitching.

Childs/county cloth sells a period man's shirt pattern, with cuffs, etc., copied from the shirt of Confederate soldier Henry Hollyday (essentially a citizen's shirt). (look under CS patterns on his site). Or the simpler "Louisiana" soldier's shirt. These patterns could be used with any material, plain, checks, etc. He also has the US Army issue flannel shirt pattern if required (though cotton citizen's shirts are much more comfortable in the summer!)

BandB Tart has some excellent check shirtings on his cloth page, suitable for 1860s stuff. Wambaugh has lots too:

Wambaugh, shirtings...

Great advice and leads. Thank you.