Muzzleldrs Springfield m1863 type 2 (1864)

Johnny676767

Private
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
Hello,

I’m not exactly sure how to refer to this, whether a model 1863 type 2 or model 1864. I’ve seen both. Anyway, this is a recent purchase. It’s pretty much exactly the type of rifle musket I was looking for as far as price range, conditio, and appearance. I am new to this but I believe it to be original-bayonet was purchased separately but patina and overall appearance match up well.

It is quite dirty, though. By just handling it, my hands get dirty and rust stained. I gently wiped it with a damp cloth, but am hoping to clean it up a bit- to make the components look more distinct and to conserve it.

I read on the NRA museum page to clean these with a little dish detergent and then dry. After that, they recommended mineral spirits. Would that work? I don’t want to get it to the point where you see hairlines all over the metal. I like the used, old look. I would like to bring out the markings. There’s also a barely visible cartouche- is there a way to bring that out?

Thanks everyone.

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Joined
Oct 14, 2015
Location
NJ
You could remove a lot of the surface rust and stop any active rust by using Balistol wipes or applying it from the can using a soft cloth. On any of the stubborn rust use nothing more abrasive than a soft toothbrush. Truth is a lot will come of with the Balistol alone by gently wiping it. Leave a light coat of the Balistol or oil on the lock, hammer, barrel and barrel bands, It is safe for the gun and for you, but open a window because it does smell a little bit.
 

Johnny676767

Private
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
Thanks for the comments. I like it a lot, but I’m not sure if the rear sight is correct. I know it was added. I read that the type II‘s have a single leaf sight as opposed to the first type m1863, which had double leaf sights. However, I also read that sometimes the double leaf sights were used on the early type II rifle muskets. This one has two leafs (I’m assuming the leaves are the pieces that fold up and down).

Reading through some posts here, I see that a product called Kramer’s Best Antique Improver is recommended. Seems to be a good cleaning/conditioning option. I’ll give that a try.

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johan_steele

Regimental Armorer
Retired Moderator
Joined
Feb 20, 2005
Location
South of the North 40
You have a nice M1864; that's what the army called it at the time. Ballistol has ben mentioned as has Kramer's Best. Both will do a world of good for her. The wood looks quite thirsty and ready for some Kramer's.
 

Johnny676767

Private
Joined
Nov 30, 2020
I think I am good with it now. It’s a lot cleaner and I believe the wood is conditioned. You can see where the original finish came up and was worn. I wouldn’t mind getting the lock plate a bit cleaner, but I don’t want to mess with it too much. I’ll let it sit for a couple of weeks and then apply some ren wax. Thanks for all the advice on purchasing and care. Now on the hunt for the next one...

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johan_steele

Regimental Armorer
Retired Moderator
Joined
Feb 20, 2005
Location
South of the North 40
I think I am good with it now. It’s a lot cleaner and I believe the wood is conditioned. You can see where the original finish came up and was worn. I wouldn’t mind getting the lock plate a bit cleaner, but I don’t want to mess with it too much. I’ll let it sit for a couple of weeks and then apply some ren wax. Thanks for all the advice on purchasing and care. Now on the hunt for the next one...

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She looks nice. An M1864 with nothing to be ashamed of.
 

RicM

Cadet
Joined
Apr 17, 2021
Wow Johnny yours is definitely a diamond in the rough!! Clean her up right and that awesome rifle will wake right up for you!! I got a hold of my 1863 Type 2 (aka 1864) in similar condition as yours.

The barrel and and other metal pieces I was lucky, had no severe pitted rust. Once I took apart the rifle I soaked for two days all the metal parts excluding the barrel in WD40. After which time I washed them with Murphys soap and Dawn dish washing detergent using a Scotch Brite Dobie Pads (its a plastic scrub sponge that does not scratch the softest of metals, sold in most all grocery stores) . Once dried with air compressor and stolen small towels from my wife's stash of extra towels (caught a bit of grief on that lolol) I used the "Nevr Dull" Polish (I swear by this stuff, it removes rust and doesn't hurt the metals cleaning. Used this for decades when I was detailing lightly pit rusted wheels and chrome on cars. Found in most all hardware and automotive stores)

Anyway while watching TV or sitting around I constantly kept wiping the Nevr Dull on the parts and then wiping them until I was satisfied with the results. As with the barrel I removed the nipple and soaked it in boiling soapy water before cleaning. Then used steaming hot water and Dawn dish washing detergent pouring down the barrel a few times and then shaking the barrel while filled. Then used a nylon gun barrel brush instead of a brass one to run thru the barrel. Used compressed air blew dry and left another complete cleaning for later after the exterior of the barrel was done. Onward to the exterior of the barrel which was all yellow blemished with some rust starting to take hold. I soaked the barrel in WD40 in a bucket (half at a time) for two days. Once out and dried I was able to remove the rear site with the proper tool with no damage to the mounting screw and site. Then went to town on the exterior of the barrel. Loads of scrubbing with the Dobie Pad in a slop sink with Dawn Detergent and hot water. Afterwards and dried I rubbed down the exterior with the Nevr Dull cotton swabs. Before I knew it the barrels original bright steel was shinning thru. There was some minor pit burn marks near the breach and where the nipple screws in. I got all or most of it cleaned out and left it. Then went on cleaning the inside of the barrel. I should note a very light use of gun oil on the all parts and assembly when I reassembled it, and barrel butter for the inside of the barrel.

As for the rear site I did take it apart again it was soaked then cleaned with Nevr Dull. I did NOT use the Dobie Pad as there was still original blueing and did not want to chance rubbing it out. Also I did NOT take the Lock Plate apart, I did have to replace the Sear Spring which was broken decades ago and replaced with a small coil spring. That was a 90 minute road trip to S&S Firearms with only the Lock Plate (highly recommend the place) I bought a replacement Sear Spring and in 15 minutes he installed it.

As with the Stock after a very close examination I spotted the cartouch, I used scrub brush sponge with Dolbie pad with Murphys soap with hot water. Got all grime off then a few coats of Boiled linseed did the trick. One site I used to help was this one for cleaning "Procedures to clean your M1861 Springfield Percussion Musket" Google it and its a free download.
https://regtqm.com › M1861-Cleaning-Instructions

Once all cleaned and assembled I used Renaissance Polish on the entire rifle, I highly recommend it. End result was awesome and I did examine the entire rifle and found it is all 100% original and I'm still smiling
RULE #1: Be Patient take your time, Its a labor of love and the end result will plant a huge smile on your face!!

Below are a few before and after shots and of course I had to try her out at the range.

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RicM

Cadet
Joined
Apr 17, 2021
Thank you. I should note on mine I did NOT use any 0000 steel wool or any type of sandpaper or abrasives. Also I did NOT use ANY stain for the stock. Once the stock was all cleaned and dried I applied a few coats of the Boiled Linseed Oil which brought out the color and grain. What I found is the more coats of the Renaissance Polish I applied, the richer the stock seemed to appear. Everyone has their own methods on cleaning and Im no expert by far, but I found the results show that I did something right with it. So hopefully this helps with Johnnys 1863 Type 2 its worth sharing. Oh and also invest in Wheeler Gunsmithing Screwdriver deluxe set. Well worth the money so not to mess things up.
 
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