Sharps & Hankins.... need some help please

[lawer dagget]

Hello: I'm a newbie, but happy to be here. Thanks for letting me in.
I'm new to Civil War firearms other than the cap and ball Colt revolver. Most of my collection is WW2 and Indian War era.
I recently purchased the Navy 1862 S&H rim fire, Model 1859. The breakdown is complete and all is in wonderful shape except for the firing pin. Too many dry fires I am guessing. The pin will move, but no way will it ever free float. Also happy to say. All matching #s on 5 stamped parts with a B on all. Info on the B would be nice also.
My question is: How is the firing pin assembly removed? I see slots on both sides of the pin housing like maybe a special screwdriver blade is required? It's not a deep groove, so it concerns me before going in blind.
Any info would be awesome, plus info on parts.
Many thanks again and hope to hear some great news. There is not a lot of info out there on these odd ducks. It's a keeper in my book big time, and hope to get it living again with the cartridge conversion. Dixie has a nice setup, but I love a challenge and do all my own reloads for BP. Can't Never Did Anything!
Open and welcome mind to all replies please.
Old history needs back on the range whenever the gun is safe to shoot.
They have feelings also. If left alone, they might set your house on fire. JK .....
Many thanks again.

 

[plymouthairrifle]

Quite simple, the slots are part of a hollow set screw that holds the firing pin in place. Very good detail drawings of the gun are in the book, Breech - loading carbines of the United States civil war period by John Pitman. I bought mine on Amazon. S&S Firearms have original firing pins for sale if you need one.

 

[USS ALASKA]

Welcome to CWT from the Railroads & Steam Locomotives and The Naval War forums!

https://civilwartalk.com/forums/railroads-steam-locomotives.203/

https://civilwartalk.com/forums/the-naval-war.87/

Cheers and Enjoy!
USS ALASKA

 

[plymouthairrifle]

I have three S&H rifles. One has an S , one an H, and the other a P. Inspectors mark I would think.

 

[UCVRelics]

Welcome From The Heart Of Dixie. @plymouthairrifle is spot on with the pin removal. We would love to see photos. I have a naval model with complete leather and I love mine.

 

[redbob]

Welcome to the group from middle Alabama and good luck with your project.

 

[Larryh86GT]

Welcome from Western New York

 

[Jobe Holiday]

Lawer Dagget - Welcome to this forum! I don't quite understand your comment, "Dixie has a nice setup, but I love a challenge and do all my own reloads for BP." Does that mean you are going to make your own rim fire cartridges?
J.

 

[lawer dagget]

Hi guys and thanks for the warm welcome and answers. Many thanks for the firing pin removal. It was stubborn and did come out. All got cleaned up, burrs gone, and polished. Works awesome.
The Dixie comment I made and the question ask. Yes-- I do plan on my own conversion. At $8.50 per case, it is always worth a stab.
I was actually hoping that some of you have done this and would share.
There are a lot of others doing this, but I hear little results. Dixie has been doing this for years so I have too give grace to what they are doing. They use the 22 blanks. To me, that's to hot for BP. Just my thought is all and been known to over think things. Others use the 22 shorts with bullet and powder removed of course. No mention is made of trimming the case length after, but sure they do. Labor intensive indeed to get there. Just trying to figure it all out as options. I have yet to begin diving in.
I have slugged the bore and it looks like I will start with .538 or maybe a little bigger. What ever is available. I will be casting the chamber next. I understand, but can find no specs. That the S&H cartridge was longer? The casting might help me decide, plus you input of course. I have Starlite cases at 5 each of Spencer 56-50 and 50-70 government to work with. The primer hole will be drilled out and tapped to 1/4-20 and a all brass screw installed. Finished with red loc-tite or solder. I have yet to decide. I really don't see it going anywhere.
Just ideas is all with baby steps. I do feel it can be done. Color Me Gone, for not trying. That actually was the name of a early Funny Car back in my lost love for drag racing.
Pics? I would love to send pics. It's tore down now, but always willing to share. Is this site easy to post pics, or do you need to dance with Imgur?
Looking forward to hearing back from all. Thanks again for input and the warm welcome.

 

[UCVRelics]

We would love to see photos and its very EZ. Just click on the attach files in the lower left hand corner and then click the ones you want to upload.

 

[Lubliner]

Shop talk is like a rapid fire ping-pong match many times to me, and without a hand beyond my ability. But it is oh so much fun too watch!!
Welcome from Tennessee,
Lubliner.

 

[JOHN42768]

Welcome, enjoy

 

[Jobe Holiday]

LD, You are correct on the use of .22 blanks, they are much too hot, and start moving the projectile forward into the bore before the charge can ignite, which in turn causes erratic groups. The .22 Short case, with projectile and smokeless powder removed, provides a much more uniform ignition. And, no you don't have to trim them down. Another downside to using .22 Blanks is that they flange outward when fired and are difficult to remove from the basic case.
J.

 

[Stone in the wall]

Welcome from "inside of Mosby's Confederacy"

 

[Seduzal]

Welcome to CWT from the Smoky Mountain side of North Carolina. Just jump right in and enjoy.

 

[lawer dagget]

Thanks again for the warm welcomes. I'm gonna try my hand at sending a few pics. We shall see. Everything is broke down right now, but I have some questions on the stock and the the safety lever screw, and yet another to JB on the brass conversion. Tossing the sleeve pic in for grins. It's not the real deal, but still in decent shape. Probably done many years ago. The hole for the forward lever screw removal is not there. It has a nice old used look to it though.
Now the questions: My stock is in really good shape. Just not sure I like the light gloss it has, but want it right for time period. Did the Navy or maybe even all, have a gloss. Or were they all done in boiled Lin seed oil?
Next is, where in the world do I find the screw for the safety lever, and a few more small ones like the sleeve screws. S&S does not have them, unless I'm looking in the wrong spot.
Last is to JB. You seem well knowledged on the use of the rim fire conversion. Are you getting your cases from Dixie, or converting your own? Plus, is it true the S&H cartridge was indeed a little longer? I'm sure after casting the chamber area I should be able to figure that out. But heck, anybody can do that. It's always harder to ask.
Now to try my pic inserts....... Sorry about the messy work area. I was not about to move things for a quick photo shoot.
Thanks again to all.

 

[UCVRelics]

I see that yours too is a Navy model with intact leather which is a rarity as the leather had a tendency to deteriorate. Plus the barrel doesn't look corroded which tells me that if issued it was to a "Brown Water Navy" boat. IMHO that is way to rare of a gun to even think about firing.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

Perhaps it is just a S&H Navy Carbine that sat in storage and never saw service on any water at all?
J.

 

[UCVRelics]

Could be as the leather seam at the bottom where the lever came down is still intact but still to fire it

 

[Jobe Holiday]

I really don't encourage that activity, but if they want to do it I feel they should do it with as much knowledge ahead of time, and consider the fact that we are just the "Caretakers" of these antiquities for yet another generation. Or, at least I hope there is another generation in the wings who will care for these fine old relics!
J.