Sewing - dress pattern

[AshleyMel]

Polka dots! How fun! I would have never guessed! Back to the fabric store!

 

[AshleyMel]

Not Civil War related but just needed to vent! I just came back from one of my sewing classes and my teacher had me redo one of my projects! Not a huge deal but I'm struggling with seam allowances - 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch, they all look the same to me! Feel like I'm not making much progress at all! One step forward , two steps back!

 

[Mrs. V]

I saw this the other day, and felt that I wanted to add my pennies worth..My first period wear pattern came from the Wisconsin Historical Society. A Ladies day dress, with double sleeves, inner french sleeves, collar and a skirt with a V placket in front, so the cannon pleats do not make you look like a hippo. And your bodice lies flat over the skirt front. Good thing no one told me it would be too hard to make. I did utilize some period appropiate sailors talk while fitting it..oh.my. As for Period Impressions? Not bad patterns. They do keep pretty close to shape, as well as construction.Just understand these pieces do not at all go together like modern patterns..top and bottom pieces on sleeves come to mind..as well as darts on the elbow! Yes, the completed Officers frock coat will look like it can stand all on it's lonesome! And yes, I used cotton bottom weight, thinking it would be cooler..no.

 

[LoriAnn]

One step forward , two steps back!

I empathize. I just goofed up hours of work. For the second time. Can't be fixed without ruining the fabric so...I get to start over!

I've been telling myself, "This is how you learn. This is how you get good. No one escapes this. No one gets to skip this part."

So painful though.

 

[MissREP]

Fun thread! Wonder how I missed it before?

I've been telling myself, "This is how you learn. This is how you get good. No one escapes this. No one gets to skip this part."

So painful though.

It can be literally painful. The pleats on the bodice of my dress (which you can't see in my avatar) were done twice--and the second time, while I was wearing it. I did it myself and nearly killed my neck. (Bodice pic: http://adventuresmidkid.weebly.com/uploads/9/0/6/2/9062051/p1180711_orig.jpg)

 

[Yulie]

Not Civil War related but just needed to vent! I just came back from one of my sewing classes and my teacher had me redo one of my projects! Not a huge deal but I'm struggling with seam allowances - 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch, they all look the same to me! Feel like I'm not making much progress at all! One step forward , two steps back!

Seam allowance really does make a difference on the fit of garment. Keep in mind that 19th century clothing was form fitting. If the pattern requires 1/2 inch seam and you're using 5/8 inch seam it will not fit. Case in point: at an annual sewing circle someone was sized perfectly for a corset. The owner of the pattern and another pattern maker pitched in to help. We did a test on cotton, made adjustments, then handed it over the wearer to cut the pattern on the material and sew the pieces together. When all done, it did not fit. It was too small... We were miffed and couldn't understand why. Then, eureka, the owner sewed using the wrong seam allowance. She had to disassemble the darn thing and start all over again. So... seam allowances really do make a difference. If you have trouble using the gage on your sewing machine, take a piece of masking tape and affix on the surface from end to end. If that doesn't work, mark the seam allowance on the material. Take your time. Practice. Eventually you'll master it.

-Yulie

 

[AshleyMel]

mark the seam allowance on the material

That is exactly what my teacher did to show me the difference! I was only sewing placemats, nothing that had to be fitted (thank goodness) so it was not too big a disaster. She has me move my needle to get to the 1/4 inch placement. She says in time, I'll be able to tell just by looking at it! Really? The masking tape sounds like a wonderful idea! Thanks for the encouragement!

 

[Mrs. V]

Seam allowance really does make a difference on the fit of garment. Keep in mind that 19th century clothing was form fitting. If the pattern requires 1/2 inch seam and you're using 5/8 inch seam it will not fit. Case in point: at an annual sewing circle someone was sized perfectly for a corset. The owner of the pattern and another pattern maker pitched in to help. We did a test on cotton, made adjustments, then handed it over the wearer to cut the pattern on the material and sew the pieces together. When all done, it did not fit. It was too small... We were miffed and couldn't understand why. Then, eureka, the owner sewed using the wrong seam allowance. She had to disassemble the darn thing and start all over again. So... seam allowances really do make a difference. If you have trouble using the gage on your sewing machine, take a piece of masking tape and affix on the surface from end to end. If that doesn't work, mark the seam allowance on the material. Take your time. Practice. Eventually you'll master it.

-Yulie

And might I add, when the pattern says sized to be worn with a corset, they really mean it!

 

[LoriAnn]

...and the second time, while I was wearing it.

That's like...ninja sewing!

I hand sewed a couple of quilt squares to my top once. That wasn't on purpose though.

 

[LoriAnn]

She has me move my needle to get to the 1/4 inch placement.

If you do a lot of 1/4" seams, they make a 1/4" foot. With that little guy, you don't have to mark or tape anything. This is what mine looks like.

Seam allowance really does make a difference on the fit of garment.

Amen to that! I even tend to give myself a teeny bit of extra room (sew a 1/2" instead of a 5/8") so I have some...seasonal padding flexibility. I like to call my dresses "Couture with Built In Christmas".

 

[Mrs. V]

I am going to go look at fabric from a volunteer at the historical society. Plaid with small squares. I am thinking summer work dress. There is 10 yards. What would be a good price? It's cotton.