Pettengill Revolver fix

[Whiteleather]

I have moved this topic from the Newcomers forum.

I have a Pettengill revolver with some busted spring inside. Mark Anaballi was kind enough to supply the info between the asterisks. My reply will be a reply below this one:

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Greetings Kris

Here's a close up photo of my Pettengill's mechanism and spring. Hope that it has enough detail and that this helps you out. I've never had to make or replace a Pettengill spring so I can't say how difficult your task is.

Kind Regards,
Mark Anniballi
Dandridge, TN

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[Whiteleather]

Mark,,

That is a terrific photo and very helpful. Below is an annotated copy of your pic.

The green line is a flat spring. Mine is too short to support the hand that rotates the cylinder. This is an easy fix now that I see it.

The red line is another flat spring with a notched top like an "F". On mine the bottom is missing. I don't know what it is shaped like or what it supports below.

The yellow shape (sear? connector?) on my pistol does not fall back into the position yours is at rest. This is the crux of my problem. After the shot it stays up. I think the redline spring is supposed to be touching it to push it back down.

Is there any chance you can see what the bottom of that redline spring does to the yellow shape? I don't know how comfortable you are with taking stuff apart, so don't try it if you are unfamiliar with it.

If you don't know, the whole assembly is pinned together and comes out as a unit leaving behind the two flat springs and that yellow bit. To remove it, you will have to loosen or remove the flat spring secured to the backstrap by the visible screw.

Obviously no obligation to do so. I really need a schematic like a patent drawing to see what is going on. Any chance you have a link to one?

Thanks again for the photos. I am already further ahead than I was 6 months ago.

Cheers!

Kris in NY (that's the REAL NY in the Finger Lakes!)

 

[Mark A]

Hi Kris

Here's a closer photo of the internal workings of the Pettengill. The shaft of the "F" shaped spring has a uniform width as it runs down to the sear. As it contacts the sear it bends to the left and runs along (contacts) the sear for 1/8 to 3/16 inch.

 

[JOHN42768]

Seek and you shall find sometimes. Good info

 

[Mark A]

Hi Kris

You can try here, the patent drawing for the Pettengill. Not very helpful but worth looking at to show how different the concept drawing was from the final product.

US15388A - Improvement in repeating fire-arms - Google Patents
Google

Mark

 

[Whiteleather]

Mark, That second photo answers the question. I see a tiny curl of the F shaped spring pressing on that sear. I will start working towards that. Have basic measurements of spring width and thickness, and should be able to test to get proper length.

Thank you very much! When I get it together I will put up photos.

Kris in NY

 

[James N.]

Either Kris @Whiteleather or @Mark A - how about some photos of your entire Pettingill, which has to be one of the strangest/silliest-looking of the many Civil War era revolvers? And Kris, Welcome to the forums!

 

[Mark A]

Either Kris @Whiteleather or @Mark A - how about some photos of your entire Pettingill, which has to be one of the strangest/silliest-looking of the many Civil War era revolvers? And Kris, Welcome to the forums!

 

[Whiteleather]

FIXED!

Thanks to Mark A I was able to fashion up two spring steel items in stainless. Will switch to blued steel now that I know it will work.

So it turns out the F shaped spring (red line in photo above) that presses on the sear (hammer spring catch) has to be perfectly fitted or it will bind on the hammer. I was able to create the F-shape at the top and the slight curl at the bottom. The curl has to be curled AWAY from the sear or it will catch on the edge. The length of this spring is very important, as is its width in the retaining block.

Also turns out that the hand that rotates the cylinder rides along the cylinder stop spring (green line in photo above). Length of this spring is key in making sure the cylinder does not roll backward so far that the hand misses the cylinder pocket. Too long and the hand rides too high, too short and the hand hits the previously fired pocket.

Here is a video of the repaired pistol:

One of the nipples is under sized, so my cap fell off. That is why only 5 of 6 shots went off, and why one hung up for a second. I am using #11s. Will standardize the nipples to fit #10.

After the firing I demonstrate the *click* of the cylinder stop spring as the hand pocket rides past it. I also try to reverse the cylinder to show how that same spring stops the cylinder from rolling backward. There is a lot of slop in the movement, but the timing is pretty good in making sure the chamber is aligned with the barrel for the shot.

Thanks again to MarkA for the photos. They were key in explaining the design. Its simple enough now that I have it running, but I was at a loss to understand it before.

 

[Mark A]

The mechanics look & sound the way they should. Glad the Pettengill is back in service. Well done!

 

[Mark A]

Hi Kris

Would you check the bottom of the frame of your Pettengill to see if there is a symbol stamped just forward of the trigger guard or if either grip has a cartouche.

Thx

Mark A

 

[Whiteleather]

Hi Kris

Would you check the bottom of the frame of your Pettengill to see if there is a symbol stamped just forward of the trigger guard or if either grip has a cartouche.

Mark, No, there is no stamp on my pistol in that position. Neither are there any cartouches on the stocks.

Additionally, my pistol is not stamped with any of the Pettengill data on the edge of the top strap. In fact my top strap does not even have the edge width necessary for a stamping. I had wondered if this is a prototype not available to the public or military, but with a serial number in three spots of "3426" it would have been late in production instead of early prototyping runs.

Is your piece stamped on the outside of the cylinder, the inside of the trigger guard, and on the hammer spring assembly with the serial number?

 

[Mark A]

Mark, No, there is no stamp on my pistol in that position. Neither are there any cartouches on the stocks.

Additionally, my pistol is not stamped with any of the Pettengill data on the edge of the top strap. In fact my top strap does not even have the edge width necessary for a stamping. I had wondered if this is a prototype not available to the public or military, but with a serial number in three spots of "3426" it would have been late in production instead of early prototyping runs.

Is your piece stamped on the outside of the cylinder, the inside of the trigger guard, and on the hammer spring assembly with the serial number?

All of the above plus the bottom of the grip strap & inside of each grip. I have a Pettengill Navy revolver that is even more profusely stamped with the s/n on the loading lever and bottom of the barrel. There was still alot of hand fitting during the 1860's so it's common to see the serial number (or a partial number) on all major and many minor parts of each gun.

 

[Whiteleather]

All of the above plus the bottom of the grip strap & inside of each grip. I have a Pettengill Navy revolver that is even more profusely stamped with the s/n on the loading lever and bottom of the barrel. There was still alot of hand fitting during the 1860's so it's common to see the serial number (or a partial number) on all major and many minor parts of each gun.

"Curiouser and curiouser...". From a book published nearly the same year as the Pettengill!

 

[Aunt Bee]

Do any of you gentlemen have a contact (E-mail,etc) or still around this site-- I also have a Pettengill (.34 belt model) with a few problems ? Regards, Al Hunt, near USNA, Annapolis, MD

 

[Old Soldier]

Here is the patent on C&Rsenal:

Patent: C. S. Pettengill – C&Rsenal

revolvers.candrsenal.com

 

[Aunt Bee]

THANKS O.S, Already have it PLUS US patent #'s 21,054 and 36,861

 

[nc native]

View attachment 304196

The Pettengill almost looks futuristic even though it was manufactured around 160 years ago. That is an unique design. Does it fire black powder and laser beams?