Crusty and Rusty

[originalrebelyell]

Has anyone ever heard of using olive oil to soften up hard crusty rust inside musket bore. Anyone heard of it or tried it

 

[Jobe Holiday]

A newer product on the market today is Ballistol, I have found it to be a pretty good penetrant for old gunk-like build-up, not only externally, but also in the bore of an antique arm.
J.

 

[Rutherford Co NC CSA]

Greetings OriginalRebelYell

Kroil we call it Rooster Pee, and find it best for what your looking to do

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Olive Oil has a decent following in the CAS community.

Kinda like welders who like cheap non-stick cooking spray for their tables, haha.

 

[1stMN]

Once you get the rust off, make sure you protect it to keep the rust away. For my modern firearms, I use Hoppes No. 9 almost exclusively.

http://www.hoppes.com/gun-oils/elite-gun-oil

 

[MRB1863]

I have used Hoppes No. 9 with good results, too. But a few years ago discovered a product called G96 Complete Gun Treatment. It is touted to clean, lubricate and protect. I have found it does all three very well. In fact, I now use it to lubricate door hinges, locks and like items on my vehicle, too. Remington makes a very similar product that works with equally well results. Both these products are effective on removing modern powder residue and cleaning the working mechanisms and bores in rifles, revolvers and automatic pistols, they do lubricate and protect very well when used in my modern firearms. I would expect the same results from an aged piece.

 

[1stMN]

Products like G96 and CLP are good 3 in 1s. I've also used Remington and would recommend it. I purchased a Mosin Nagant, not the age of a ACW weapon of course, but it the modern products did a fine job removing the preservative gels and rust.

 

[Booner]

I'd try Kroil first. It's a real good penetrating oil.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

One caveat on Kroil, if you leave something soaking in it and exposed to air for lengthy time periods it will be come gooey, gummy, and sticky. This is from personal experience!
J.

 

[Booner]

One caveat on Kroil, if you leave something soaking in it and exposed to air for lengthy time periods it will be come gooey, gummy, and sticky. This is from personal experience!
J.

Hmmm. Thanks for the heads up. I've been using Kroil for several years but have never had that problem. But I've only used it from the pour-spout can, never from a spray can; is that what you were using?

I find Kroil good for lifting the lead from forcing cones and barrels. After I clean the barrel my final patch is usually coated with Kroil to leave a very light coating. Perhaps it's because I live in a dry environment, but I've never seen it gum up over time.

But thanks for the info. I'll watch for it.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

I use it out of a gallon can. I poured some into an open container and put a lock into it to soak for.....oh about 6+ months or so. The Kroil had evaporated out the toxic smelling stuff leaving a sticky mess.
J.

 

[kevikens]

A technique used for many years by collectors of old coins, especially ancient coins that are corroded, is to soak them in olive oil for a few months. It will lift off the corrosion and not in any way damage the metal, something extremely important for coin collectors. Not recommended for very rare or expensive coins but for the kind one gets from junk boxes and recent metal detector digs, it removes enough corrosion and encrusted dirt and helps in attributing the coin to its time and place. In the case of firearms or coins that have a natural patina I would use nothing artificial.