Confederate currency

pab1986

Cadet
Joined
Jun 26, 2024
HI everybody I'm a new member and I wanted to gain knowledge on some confederate currency that was given to me. I'm not familiar with it at all. I am finding it interesting though through some research. I was unaware of the 72 types/styles. The money was so much cooler back then in my opinion. I'm going to post a few pictures just to get feedback and learn what I can. Thanks

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Welcome to the forum @pab1986.

The following thread is on 'Collecting Confederate Currency'.

 
That is some interesting notes you have there.They all appear to be somewhat common.It looks like you stumbled into an addictive and very interesting hobby.But I am just one of the commentators , the real experts will be by shortly.
 
That 4th one down, the $100 with a train you appear to have more than one of those. How many of those do you have? You have what appears to be the T40. But the T39 is a very similar design and both were prone to counterfeiters.
 
There is a separate forum called "Camp of Instruction for New Recruits" . It is on that forum that you introduce yourself to the other members. Just scroll down to that forum and say "Hello". In the mean time Howdy + Welcome from Texas!
 
If these were all given to you, I'd say you're a lucky person. As Polloco said, they're all fairly common, but that doesn't mean that even the "worst" isn't worth something. The 1864 $100 (Type 65) notes look like they might be in high grade (few if any folds, bends, or circulation issues). The higher the grade, the more valuable the note.

I'm also curious about the stack of train notes (Type 40, $100). How many? Are any or all serial numbers sequential? On the backs, are any without "Interest Paid" stamps or notations? Do any have handwritten signatures on the back?

Polloco mentions correctly that there are counterfeits of the Type 39 and 40 train notes. The good news is that they are not too common, they are legal to own, and are quite collectible, so in the unlikely event you have any, that's not a bad thing.

Finally, I recommend that you acquire some mylar currency sleeves. One for each note. I prefer the flip-top type with open ends because it's easier to put a note in that type without risking damage or adding a bend, but as long as they are mylar, any type will do. Avoid vinyl holders. You can either find them online, or possibly get them from a local coin shop.
 
HI everybody I'm a new member and I wanted to gain knowledge on some confederate currency that was given to me. I'm not familiar with it at all. I am finding it interesting though through some research. I was unaware of the 72 types/styles. The money was so much cooler back then in my opinion. I'm going to post a few pictures just to get feedback and learn what I can. Thanks

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Welcome. I have learned a lot in just six months here (although I am not studying currency).
 
In collecting Confederate Currency you will no doubt come across and notice the colorful and numerous signatures. There are many and this variety of signatures is part of the story of the history behind the notes.There is a member here ,Charles Derby, who cowrote a book about the signers . It has been helpful in determining just who the signers were. I personally have a hard time with some of these signatures. My old eyes are not what they used to be plus the cursive writing is sometimes hard to decipher. These signers had quotas to meet and had to sign fast. I realize suggesting numerous books can amount to a considerable expense. For the not-so-serious collector it is probably better to go to your local library instead of purchasing the books.But do rely on books, they are a big help.

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In collecting Confederate Currency you will no doubt come across and notice the colorful and numerous signatures. There are many and this variety of signatures is part of the story of the history behind the notes.There is a member here ,Charles Derby, who cowrote a book about the signers . It has been helpful in determining just who the signers were. I personally have a hard time with some of these signatures. My old eyes are not what they used to be plus the cursive writing is sometimes hard to decipher. These signers had quotas to meet and had to sign fast. I realize suggesting numerous books can amount to a considerable expense. For the not-so-serious collector it is probably better to go to your local library instead of purchasing the books.But do rely on books, they are a big help.

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Buying USED books has been helpful for me. It lowers the cost significantly.
 
Nice indeed. They all appear authentic. Nothing rare, but still nice. Yes the $100 train notes did have some period counterfeits, however many of these are found void of interest payment stamps on the back, for obvious reasons. Lots of these were held on to since they were interest bearing. CS currency, bonds, and related obsolete bank notes Ive been collecting for a host of decades (not gonna say how many..lol) Even got to spend some time with the late Grover Criswell who amongst the early collectors cataloged and wrote the initial "book" on these notes many years ago. I started collecting them as a kid, Careful it is addictive... over 400 notes later have put it on pause for awhile. Ironically over 30 years ago I found an interest in who the people were that worked at the Treasury and were signing the notes. Conducted research and bio's on all those that I had encountered, mostly just for my own curiosity. interestingly someone else had the same idea and published same, its all good.
 
Buying USED books has been helpful for me. It lowers the cost significantly.
I got a "dandy" used book several months the ago for less than $8.00 and it's like new.It is another of those books for the serious collector. It is an incomplete book but it is helpful in letting you know which signatures match up with certain serial numbers. Some day I hope to learn how to use it properly.

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If these were all given to you, I'd say you're a lucky person. As Polloco said, they're all fairly common, but that doesn't mean that even the "worst" isn't worth something. The 1864 $100 (Type 65) notes look like they might be in high grade (few if any folds, bends, or circulation issues). The higher the grade, the more valuable the note.

I'm also curious about the stack of train notes (Type 40, $100). How many? Are any or all serial numbers sequential? On the backs, are any without "Interest Paid" stamps or notations? Do any have handwritten signatures on the back?

Polloco mentions correctly that there are counterfeits of the Type 39 and 40 train notes. The good news is that they are not too common, they are legal to own, and are quite collectible, so in the unlikely event you have any, that's not a bad thing.

Finally, I recommend that you acquire some mylar currency sleeves. One for each note. I prefer the flip-top type with open ends because it's easier to put a note in that type without risking damage or adding a bend, but as long as they are mylar, any type will do. Avoid vinyl holders. You can either find them online, or possibly get them from a local coin shop.
I do have some of the notes that are replicas some say copy however I couldn't find the word copy on some. The paper felt off but I know nothing about what the paper is supposed to feel like. The train notes best I can tell I may have a few in sequence but it's hard to see some of the numbers. The red 100 notes I have about 30ish that are sequence however I'm missing note ending in 77 and 1 other I believe between notes ending in 66-98. I thought that was awesome if they're indeed legit
 
I do have some of the notes that are replicas some say copy however I couldn't find the word copy on some. The paper felt off but I know nothing about what the paper is supposed to feel like. The train notes best I can tell I may have a few in sequence but it's hard to see some of the numbers. The red 100 notes I have about 30ish that are sequence however I'm missing note ending in 77 and 1 other I believe between notes ending in 66-98. I thought that was awesome if they're indeed legit
"30ish" of the T65 notes? Wow!

One thing that might help with authenticity where you have multiple notes is the serial number. Bear in mind, these notes were printed on sheets with several notes per sheet, the number of notes varying with type. Most of the later types would have all the notes on each sheet given the same serial number. What rendered them unique would be the combination of the number and the plate position (often a letter, a pair of letters, a number, or a combination of a letter and number). If you have notes with the same serial number AND the same plate position, they're fake.

Most known old reproductions are listed at Bogus CSA with many links to images of examples. Sadly, there are people using their computer and printers to make new reproductions. Fortunately, they sell them AS reproductions, but most do not include the word "COPY" as required by the federal Hobby Protection Act. These could turn up some day sold by crooks, or even honest but unknowing heirs. I don't think it's a problem yet. With multiple notes, I doubt any modern faker is changing the serial number or plate position for each note!

As for the books, I do indeed recommend the Fricke "Field Guide" (2014) mentioned above. The Thian Register of the Confederate Debt is a must have for the serious collector for helping to identify counterfeits, but as it's a copy of a book that predates modern collector nomenclature, it takes some experience to use efficiently. As Polloco says, it's "incomplete," but most of the missing information is on the last issues, and most of them were not counterfeited. There are also a few errors, but as a whole, it's a valuable resource.

Any serious collector should try and track down a copy of Tremmel's A Guide Book of Counterfeit Confederate Currency.
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I consider these three to be essential for anyone planning to spend money on this hobby. These books can help save you from making expensive mistakes, and possibly help to find real bargains. I personally don't own a copy of the Derby/McNeil book. It may be helpful and interesting, but I don't consider it essential.
 
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"30ish" of the T65 notes? Wow!

One thing that might help with authenticity where you have multiple notes is the serial number. Bear in mind, these notes were printed on sheets with several notes per sheet, the number of notes varying with type. Most of the later types would have all the notes on each sheet given the same serial number. What rendered them unique would be the combination of the number and the plate position (often a letter, a pair of letters, a number, or a combination of a letter and number). If you have notes with the same serial number AND the same plate position, they're fake.

Most known old reproductions are listed at Bogus CSA with many links to images of examples. Sadly, there are people using their computer and printers to make new reproductions. Fortunately, they sell them AS reproductions, but most do not include the word "COPY" as required by the federal Hobby Protection Act. These could turn up some day sold by crooks, or even honest but unknowing heirs. I don't think it's a problem yet. With multiple notes, I doubt any modern faker is changing the serial number or plate position for each note!

As for the books, I do indeed recommend the Fricke "Field Guide" (2014) mentioned above. The Thian Register of the Confederate Debt is a must have for the serious collector for helping to identify counterfeits, but as it's a copy of a book that predates modern collector nomenclature, it takes some experience to use efficiently. As Polloco says, it's "incomplete," but most of the missing information is on the last issues, and most of them were not counterfeited. There are also a few errors, but as a whole, it's a valuable resource.

Any serious collector should try and track down a copy of Tremmel's A Guide Book of Counterfeit Confederate Currency.
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I consider these three to be essential for anyone planning to spend money on this hobby. These books can help save you from making expensive mistakes, and possibly help to find real bargains. I personally don't own a copy of the Derby/McNeil book. It may be helpful and interesting, but I don't consider it essential.

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