Bayonet Care

[Glen_C]

WD-40 did get an honorable mention in these tests for protecting chainmail
http://www.customchainmail.com/category/experiments/

on the other hand I have a couple of first hand experiences in not liking WD-40 for long term storage. One, hosing down some firearms, wrapping in blankets, packing them in a trunk and storing in a basement. The blankets wicked moisture and the result after a couple of years was significant rust and rusty blankets.

The second a table saw placed in a shed, cleaned sprayed and after only a couple of days, a fine layer of surface rust on the surface of the table. No doubt temperatures in a tin roofed room caused condensation and made matters worse. A metal scabbard and blade act similarly.

As I write this, I look at an 1830ish saber that is hanging in a cardboard scabbard after its last transport for a cutting party that ended with some sprinkles. I suppose I should look before I pack for the next event

Cheers

GC

 

[ColonelKlink1942]

WD 40 is not a lubricating oil, its a penetrating petroleum product and it can do damage. Look up some threads on what people do when they have a 400 year old Katana. The last thing you want to do is put WD40. Light vegetable or pure mineral oil is the way to go.

I have pitted WW2 steel blades by applying paste wax. If you value your bayonets and swords do some reasearch on the blade and edged weapons forums (off this site).

Hey, sorry to be a bother (and I suppose sorry for reviving this so late), but I've been reading up on how to preserve bayonets (as I now have 11 in my collection) and came across your message here. I don't suppose you had a link to that "blade and edged weapons forum" do you? I did some basic searching the other night to find it, but couldn't pinpoint the right one.

I am trying to get a good sense of what to use, and am keeping the various opinions and suggestions of this thread (and other threads) in mind before I make a decision on what to do and how best to preserve my bayonets.

 

[Present Arms]

I found a dug bayonet in an antique shop that was a big blob of corrosion and dirt. I submerged it in commercial strength vinegar (not the food kind!) for two weeks and the corrosion fell off in large chunks. I used some penetrating oil on the screw and retaining band and all three parts of the bayonet separated and were fully functional. After that, I covered it with Snake Oil, which someone at the Las Vegas Antique Arms Show was using by soaking a pair of cotton gloves with it and rubbing it on his guns.

 

[Old Soldier]

If it is rusty, soak in white vinegar and rub down with 000 or 0000 wire wool. Don't use abrasive papers or go for a smooth shiny finish since that takes away most of the surface and any stamps or engraving. OK for repro but NOT for originals. Once it is cleaned to your satisfaction, gun oil - same as they did in the field and the same as they used on their rifle.

 

[Nebraska Lawdog]

I've found that Ballistol is a good choice for blades and firearms.

 

[bayonet]

I'm confused here, you ordered a bayonet, don't have it yet, and posted no pics of it. What makes you think it needs anything applied to it yet until we see the condition of it? When you get it post some pics then folks can make a uniformed decision on it.

 

[ColonelKlink1942]

I think what presently frightens me the most is how many differing opinions and suggestions are out there for this sort of preservation. Some say WD-40, some say not to use WD-40, paste wax, Renaissance Wax (kinda interested in this one), vinegar, 50/50 mixtures of transmission fluid and kerosene, kerosene at full strength with a bronze bore brush, and so many more.

Heck, my little brother (who has a 1912-dated pump-action shotgun and has done a bit of preservation work on that) suggested that I use bore cleaner, a soft brush (likely something like nylon or bronze bore brushes), and a thin layer of synthetic oil.

So yeah, forgive me if I'm unsure of what to do and all over the place.

 

[roundball1]

I ordered a bayonet from The Blockade Runner and I was wondering what is the best way to take care of it?

For me, personally, I wipe my firearms down with cotton gloved hands and a little bore butter when I want to rack them and do the same with the bayonets. If you shoot your arms with the bayonet attached, make sure that you clean the inner part of the socket. Quite a bit of fouling can get in there.

 

[Salterr]

As I am sure you are aware, these items are valuable....monetarily, historically and often emotionally. The last thing, IME, u want 2 do is ruin an article because you took some quick advice off the net. As I said I used Johnsons Paste Wax, which I think is a solid product on a WW2 dagger out of Soligen Germany and 6 months later its pitted....not real bad but worse than before. People on edged weapon sites told me that wax can actually trap moisture and lead to corrosion. If I had not seen it I would have a hard time believing it. German steel in that era was of unusually high quality. All I am saying is do your homework.

Museum curators seem to be pretty tight lipped about what they use.....Its their profession and Im sure they dont want to give away trade secrets. in 5 years I have never had a problem with pure mineral oil on iron or steel. I use Pecards products for leather.

Have your leather pieces ever turned white from it? I had that happen once and I haven't used it since. Luckily it was reversible.

 

[cwbuff]

Renaissance Wax - period. Research it.

 

[C. Cash]

I use Ballistol full strength on everything metal to protect and lube. It is non toxic and will not harm wood. It will also clean black powder residue very well by itself or when mixed with water. Periodically apply it with 100% cotton. The Renaissance Wax I hear great things about and will no doubt form a protective layer on wood or metal. As has been said, many ways to skin this cat. Just find the way you like best.

 

[ColonelKlink1942]

Renaissance Wax - period. Research it.

Sounds like it's what I would need. Too bad I'd have to order online, I was hoping I could shop local and ask more questions.

 

[muffinman67]

BTW, it goes without saying to not store it in it's scabbard.

 

[cwbuff]

Many things will help. If you want the best it is Renaissance Wax. It was developed by the British Museum and used by many other museums. It is not like regular wax. For an overview see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

 

[manfeltree]

Renaissance Wax - period. Research it.

This is the correct answer.
When I was a volunteer at Springfield Armory National Historic Site, we kept a two-page, laser printed handout on the reception desk of the museum that covered this topic. It was a frequent question from visitors. Written by the conservator in charge of the collection, it recommended a thin application of Renaissance Wax followed by a little low heat from a hair dryer to even out the wax and allow it to flow into the recesses and crevices of the weapon.

Museums do not use anything containing petroleum as a layer of oil will trap dust from the air.