1840 cavalry sabre

[26Intrepid]

I've never held one of these swords before. This particular sword in question, the Ames, wasn't very heavy. In person, it looked like a reproduction... the number "9" in the date has always had me stumped with this sword. The blade wasn't flimsy… but it sure was heavily polished!

As I've said… if the price is right… I would buy it. I would take a chance on it….

Thanks all for the comments… interesting views on the Ames.

 

[TLHS]

I'm heading this am to pick-up a WW2 P08 that I'm purchasing. The sellers father passed and selling off most of his WW2 and Civil war collection. Besides the sword I'm inquiring about, he's also selling a Tiffany & Co. sword and a C&J sword (All 3 appear to be 1840's). The Tiffany is in pretty good condition,,, just missing some of the twine on the handle. The leather on the handle of the C&J is totally gone, only thing that remains is the twine. Both of these swords I believe to be originals… I don't know how much he wants for them yet.

Now… the Ames sword… my head is saying reproduction… but I think it's just been buffed and overly cleaned. Thoughts? If original, is it worth pursuing? It's the nicest of the 3… collector value might be gone, but it's still a part of history if original.

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I would say that you found a very fine example of Model 1840 "Wrist Breaker".
What is he asking for the sabre?

 

[TLHS]

That AMES looks way too clean so it's either a reproduction or that blade was polished way too much. The Tiffany looks legit but the handle needs restoration, Tom Nardi could fix that at a fair price. In that condition made a few hundred, in better condition with the handle & wire all there $1200. Not sure on the other but it too needs serious handle restoration. Of course their are others here that disagree and buy plus display it that condition (each's own).

 

[TLHS]

After taking closer look at the 1840 and especially at the pommel, the sabre was taken apart at some point as evidenced by the tang being reseated. This may have resulted in the blade being highly buffed. The 1840 is very common. You will have to decide if you want an untouched one or not.

 

[26Intrepid]

Hi and thanks for the post. I don't think he's researched what it's worth… he hasn't given a price. There's a few things I'm interested in that he's selling. Hopefully, he gets back to me in a couple weeks

 

[bayonet]

I've never held one of these swords before. This particular sword in question, the Ames, wasn't very heavy. In person, it looked like a reproduction... the number "9" in the date has always had me stumped with this sword. The blade wasn't flimsy… but it sure was heavily polished!

As I've said… if the price is right… I would buy it. I would take a chance on it….

Thanks all for the comments… interesting views on the Ames.

Save your money and look elsewhere for swords in better condition with no issues. Try online auctions, online dealers, or shows.

 

[R. Porter]

I've never held one of these swords before. This particular sword in question, the Ames, wasn't very heavy. In person, it looked like a reproduction... the number "9" in the date has always had me stumped with this sword. The blade wasn't flimsy… but it sure was heavily polished!

As I've said… if the price is right… I would buy it. I would take a chance on it….

Thanks all for the comments… interesting views on the Ames.

"Real" swords tend to be lighter than fake or reproduction swords. Often a reproduction swords feels in hand like a piece of rebar with a hilt.