Sword Question Repeat!

Fishy

Cadet
Joined
Apr 13, 2025
Hello, I recently bought a civil war sword from a flea market and I would like some help identifying it's authenticity.
(I rather not mess around with the real thing for my first restoration !)
It is very dirty and I have attached many photos. Please let me know if more are needed! Thank you everyone!

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It looks pretty awful! I agree that it is a reproduction but Confederate swords are the ones I know least about. There are only a few sources that deal with them and that have only one example of each type of sword they mention. Most Confederate swords seem to be unmarked or imported, captured, or purchased from American makers before the war and all of these origins are undocumented making it impossible to prove they were Confederate. Then there are all the reproductions and fakes.
 
What does the marking usually look like?
It depends on what type of sword you are looking at. Union or confederate will be different and different models have different characteristics. Union swords will have a maker and inspector initials with a year of manufacturing. Some will have proof symbols on some foreign imports. Confederate are sometimes marked but not always. Grips are leather or shark/ray skin. Some of the wire twists are single or doubled. Sometimes the fuller runs the length of the sword other times not. Some swords have rounded spines while others flat. As for blade designs some have etching or frosting while others have a clean blade with no designs. The pommel cap shouldn't look like a bolt or screw but the pin should be flush with the pommel. Also on etched blades avoid ones with the missing E in E Pluribus unum
 
It depends on what type of sword you are looking at. Union or confederate will be different and different models have different characteristics. Union swords will have a maker and inspector initials with a year of manufacturing. Some will have proof symbols on some foreign imports. Confederate are sometimes marked but not always. Grips are leather or shark/ray skin. Some of the wire twists are single or doubled. Sometimes the fuller runs the length of the sword other times not. Some swords have rounded spines while others flat. As for blade designs some have etching or frosting while others have a clean blade with no designs. The pommel cap shouldn't look like a bolt or screw but the pin should be flush with the pommel. Also on etched blades avoid ones with the missing E in E Pluribus unum
Thank you for the detailed reply, that answers all my questions haha
 
I think my first sword was a wall hanger from Pier 1 made in India with "India" on the ricasso for about $12.00. After a while I was able to get a Kirschbaum model 1840 cavalry saber without a scabbard or grip but with a knight's head stamp on the ricasso. I think it cost me $15.00. After that I had to pay.
 
I think my first sword was a wall hanger from Pier 1 made in India with "India" on the ricasso for about $12.00. After a while I was able to get a Kirschbaum model 1840 cavalry saber without a scabbard or grip but with a knight's head stamp on the ricasso. I think it cost me $15.00. After that I had to pay.
Oh that's so cool !
 

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