preserving old cannon ball

I have always done electrolysis on them to remove rust and then boiled them in wax to remove any excess moisture and the wax will also seal out any further moisture.
 
I only use it on iron items such as artillery shells, bayonets, knives, guns etc that I have found.
 
Hopefully you're referring to a solid shot when you use the term cannonball. I'm no expert but, Mr uscrelics.com does that boiling in wax work on other than solids? I don't know but I do care!
yes it is a solid cast iron ball I am aware of the hollow exploding kind thanks
 
Sorry for the delay lot of work going on this time of year, I have already got some of the corrosion off here are some photo's
C1.jpg
C2.jpg
 
What you have is a very nice Confederate Cannon Ball with a wooden fuse insert. What is the diameter on this ball? Here is one from my personnel collection.

DSCN9221.JPG
DSCN9222.JPG
DSCN9227.JPG
 
I can't take precise measurement but it is close to 4.5 and weighs right at 12 pounds so your telling me this isn't a solid cannonball? with the weight of 12 pounds and the diameter of 4.5 isn't that consistent with a solid round? what is the size of your fuse hole? thanks
 
I can't take precise measurement but it is close to 4.5 and weighs right at 12 pounds so your telling me this isn't a solid cannonball? with the weight of 12 pounds and the diameter of 4.5 isn't that consistent with a solid round? what is the size of your fuse hole? thanks
What you have appears to be a shell and not a solid shot and the down side of this is that it may very well still be loaded, so I wouldn't get too exuberant with it until it has been thoroughly checked out and if need be deactivated to render it safe.
 
You don't have to drill a hole as there are several ways to get that wooden plug out in order to remove the powder if it is in fact still loaded. I have deactivated many CW shells by drilling the a hole on the bottom as I didn't want to mess up the brass fuse and the put them in electrolysis but they way rustier then yours. I would soak it in water for a few days in order to soften the wood and then use an exacto knife to slide between the ball and plug and try and work it loose. It will take some time and patience but it is removable. I would do a little at a time then re-soak it to all the water to get into the spots you ran the knife. Be sure you do all of this while it is under water and you will be fine.
 
You don't have to drill a hole as there are several ways to get that wooden plug out in order to remove the powder if it is in fact still loaded. I have deactivated many CW shells by drilling the a hole on the bottom as I didn't want to mess up the brass fuse and the put them in electrolysis but they way rustier then yours. I would soak it in water for a few days in order to soften the wood and then use an exacto knife to slide between the ball and plug and try and work it loose. It will take some time and patience but it is removable. I would do a little at a time then re-soak it to all the water to get into the spots you ran the knife. Be sure you do all of this while it is under water and you will be fine.
The most important point is the very last sentence: steel + iron = sparks/heat which is the very last thing that you want while someone is doing this.
 
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I have a friend who used to defuse shells. He was pretty good at it. It's better and easier than working on hand grenades. I used to find many WWI to WWII ones. The Army tended to put grenade courses on Civil War battlefields. I wasn't relic hunting either. Just trying to work.
 

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