Non-wool options for Union issue shirts?

wuzreb

Private
Joined
Jun 11, 2026
Location
Northern Nevada
Good evening all,

I realize my subject line may be an anachronism. The Union issue fatigue shirts were wool flannel.

I am not in the hobby now, have not been in years. However, just thinking ahead to the faraway land of "maybe" ... if I did decide to dip a toe back in, is there any such thing as a Union issue fatigue shirt that is not wool?

I am not close friends with wool. Wool directly against my skin makes me itch. I live out west where it gets hot, and hot and itchy is not how I want to spend an afternoon. There are less uncomfortable ways to be uncomfortable, while running around in an otherwise wool uniform.

One of the awesome things about a Confederate impression was the diversity of allowable shirts. My little South Carolina Sharpshooter got away just fine with a couple of cotton homespun shirts. If I galvanize, homespun is not an option.

And there is the point I sold all my kit 5 years ago because life happens.

So back to my question. Is there such a thing as an acceptable Union issue shirt made of cotton? That is not totally farby or made in Pakistan? Or does that exist only in the realm of flying pigs?

Respectfully &c
 
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There's not a cotton issue shirt but there's options out there for well made cotton civilian shirts. Yeah Federal issue shirts are terribly itchy, unless you were going to a hard core event that required them I'd wear a civilian shirt. Glad I usually do Confederate, like you say way more comfortable shirts.
Thank you for the advisement! I would not get along with itchy. There is an abundance of other discomforts without adding that.

Still haven't made up my mind about anything, it would be an investment to even barely get started. The only thing I still own is my musket. And it's been a long time since I did it. Somebody want to reteach me the manual of arms?

Given your advice, probably I would then look for some sort of civilian shirt. Maybe mother or sister sent it to me from home. Especially if I asked her to send one in white or off-white!

I would be unlikely to cross paths with any serious authentic campaigner folks. ;)
 
The big advantage with a federal issue domet flannel shirt is the fact after sweating all day in it, once it is taken off it dries relatively quickly allowing you a dry shirt at night , whereas a cotton shirt soaked with sweat will stay wet and damp and chill you at night. Yes, tho that federal issue shirt is hard to get used to!!
Is it all types of flannel that don't agree with you? Maybe a softer weave wool would help?

Bill
 
The big advantage with a federal issue domet flannel shirt is the fact after sweating all day in it, once it is taken off it dries relatively quickly allowing you a dry shirt at night , whereas a cotton shirt soaked with sweat will stay wet and damp and chill you at night. Yes, tho that federal issue shirt is hard to get used to!!
Is it all types of flannel that don't agree with you? Maybe a softer weave wool would help?

Bill
Good point about cotton staying soggy. That is a fact. It can be great when it's hot in the summer, but it sucks if you get caught in the rain or snow in the winter. Wool wicks water away and dries out faster.

I haven't actually had any chance to experiment with different makes of wool flannel shirts. The opportunity simply has not been there. I can wear merino wool socks and prefer them. But wool fabric in direct contact with my body, in general, doesn't agree with me. I'm fine with wool hats because they have a sweatband.

Perhaps if there was a soft enough wool flannel, I could cease being a princess and get along with it! I just haven't met it yet.
 
There is an alternate issue shirt that's more agreeable than the white domet flannel issue shirts. It's grey and made of a wool flannel that's much softer. Wambaugh and White make them and I see South Union Mills is making them now as well. The trade off is they are heavier and might not be better in very hot weather. Another option is get a period correct cotton undershirt to wear under your issue shirt. Again though it's a trade off in hot weather adding another layer.
 
So I bought one of the W&W wool flannel shirts. It's gonna require some sweating in to make it not itchy as he!!. The two shirts I currently use are pre war WW2 german collarless in a natural white with replaced buttons. I just ordered this from SouthUnionMills as an in between. I also collect original images, and you see lots of different shirts on Yank infantrymen. I know the issue shirt should be worn, but I can't do the issue domet, period.
Here's one of my favorite images in my collection....

IMG_9634.webp

...and another out of the collection..

IMG_0628.webp

...and one of the two shirts I currently use. Early WW2 German, 100% machine sewn, but kinda gives the knit undershirt look. I know, farb...

IMG_0875.webp
 
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I've sewn several federal pattern domet flannel shirts, and personally think the itch factor is a bit overstated. I've never really had that problem once I switched to the correct material. Although I know several people who have had a different experience, that hasn't been mine.

Have you considered an undershirt under your issue shirt? Canton flannel is very cozy in the winter.

In hot temperatures, I find that not only is a domet flannel shirt quick to dry, the incredibly loose weave and damp fabric makes for an amazing AC unit. If you are doing any sort of physical activity where you break a sweat (as opposed to say a presentation indoors or in a tent) the shirt isn't nearly as itchy when it's drenched. This coming from someone who doesn't care for the feel of wool either, in general.
 
So I bought one of the W&W wool flannel shirts. It's gonna require some sweating in to make it not itchy as he!!. The two shirts I currently use are pre war WW2 german collarless in a natural white with replaced buttons. I just ordered this from SouthUnionMills as an in between. I also collect original images, and you see lots of different shirts on Yank infantrymen. I know the issue shirt should be worn, but I can't do the issue domet, period.
Here's one of my favorite images in my collection....

View attachment 583584
...and another out of the collection..

View attachment 583585
...and one of the two shirts I currently use. Early WW2 German, 100% machine sewn, but kinda gives the knit undershirt look. I know, farb...

View attachment 583586
Good morning!

Your photo illustrations are great! They show more than the photos where the guys are buttoned up formally for a photographer and you can't see much under their blouse.


I know the Army wanted people uniform even then, but we've also read accounts of soldiers asking the folks back home to send socks or shirts or whatever. Union boys weren't running around in houndstooth homespun, but your photos seem to show a little outside the ordinary issue.

Food for thought, anyhow. Especially if one is concealing pretty much everything under a uniform coat or blouse. I'm probably semi allergic to wool, which is why I'm sensitive to it. I love the stuff as outerwear, just don't want to snuggle with it.
 
I've sewn several federal pattern domet flannel shirts, and personally think the itch factor is a bit overstated. I've never really had that problem once I switched to the correct material. Although I know several people who have had a different experience, that hasn't been mine.

Have you considered an undershirt under your issue shirt? Canton flannel is very cozy in the winter.

In hot temperatures, I find that not only is a domet flannel shirt quick to dry, the incredibly loose weave and damp fabric makes for an amazing AC unit. If you are doing any sort of physical activity where you break a sweat (as opposed to say a presentation indoors or in a tent) the shirt isn't nearly as itchy when it's drenched. This coming from someone who doesn't care for the feel of wool either, in general.
An undershirt could work. Especially if I wasn't doing something really physical like digging or schlepping heavy stuff around.

As I said in a comment above, I think I'm actually slightly allergic to wool. I used to have some wool blend longjohn shirts that were soft to the hand and wonderfully warm, and made me scratch like a hound. I hate being fussy about something like this, but I hate itching more!

You do make domet flannel sound a little more attractive. I haven't had the chance to actually handle and look at it, maybe one of these days I will. More food for thought! I'm not purchasing anything anytime soon, just basically thinking out loud.
 

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