My new addition

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Ok men can not get charger to come on what next.View attachment 100002

That is an automatic/voltage-sensing charger...

You have to have an analog/manual charger, such as:

Dirt cheap and available at any AutoZone, O'Reilly, Western Auto, NAPA, etc...

 

[Duane Pringle]

Got it and we are running about how long should I keep it in there? Got one at o'reilly

 

[Duane Pringle]

There was no rust really on it.

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Once you have the correct trickle charger, you are ready for business.

What are you using as an electrolyte?

Lastly, and simply my 2¢ - add yourself a few more rebar sacrificial anodes evenly spaced around the tub...

They'll pull more in a 'direct line of sight' and you'll have to scrub them less.

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

There was no rust really on it.

While the electrolysis process isn't going to be as dramatic in your situation because you are ahead of the game with little to no surface scale, rest assured that you are purging/drawing out years of what you cannot see - you want to 'slow cook' that solid shot.

Depending on your current draw, i'd recommend giving it 48 hours... Electrolysis doesn't effect the structural integrity of the 'good' mass so you have nothing to worry about.

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Post up a photo of your meter...

And what did you use as a soluble in your water?

Look very closely, and ensure that the shot itself is fizzing... Not just the wire sling you used to gain contact.

 

[Duane Pringle]

I used arm and hammer laundry boost will it be OK to let it run all night while sleeping.

 

[Duane Pringle]

Will send you my setting on charger in a minute

 

[Duane Pringle]

I appreciate all your help!!!

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Lastly, while you have time on your hands while your shot is 'slow cooking'...

Depending on your current weather when you take that ball out you are going to flash rust within a minute or two.

Your going to want to decide how to finish the shot...

Wipe off the 'soot' with an old rag...

I'd then recommend immediately plunging it into a container filled with denatured alcohol or acetone to quickly draw out as much moisture as possible.

One is more expensive than the other, and one carries a bit more of an 'MSDS threat' than the other as well. Your call if you want to go that route.

Paraffin bath/wax impregnating is the absolute best... But is a bit more time consuming, labor intensive, and comes with a flashpoint!



If this is your first electrolysis run, you cannot go wrong with the basic method. Throw the ball on an old cookie sheet, foil, or even the bare oven rack in the oven at ~350 for an hour or two... Wick out alllllll moisture. If you have any question of whether or not you got it bone dry - keep it in the oven!

When your sure it's good to go - pull it out and let it cool just enough that it is able to be handled...

Then liberally apply a borderline-excess amount of this...

Let it 'air dry' a bit and crust over - that is the Stoddard solvent (a fluid carrier) evaporating.

Then, do a quick wipe down of the surface excess, and then chase it with a bootbrush or the like to buff the shot to as much or as little of a luster as you like!

 

[Duane Pringle]

I am on center setting

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

I used arm and hammer laundry boost will it be OK to let it run all night while sleeping.

I use A&H 'Super Washing Soda' - but if what you have is a sodium carbonate you are good to go!

You will be just fine leaving it overnight, as long as you have enough water covering the ball to offset the evaporation/wicking rate.

Electrolysis does off-gas hydrogen, which under the right conditions can be combustible - so while you don't want to run your dip tank in a teeny-tiny enclosed room - a garage or similiar will provide plenty of air dissipation space.

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

I appreciate all your help!!!

My absolute pleasure... Your saving history, sir!

 

[Duane Pringle]

Thanks again!!!!!!!!

 

[Duane Pringle]

Will post the ball when done.

 

[Duane Pringle]

Went ahead and put switch on 12 very 6 amps for tonight that should be OK shouldn't it?

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

View attachment 100008 View attachment 100009 I am on center setting

Your dead on with your trickle setting, but I'd slowly stir in more of your electrolyte while watching the ammeter closely - you'll want to float that needle a bit higher (conductivity).

48 hours or so at 3-4 amps outta do it about great.

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Went ahead and put switch on 12 very 6 amps for tonight that should be OK shouldn't it?

I'd leave it at 12V/2A... Slow cooking is better, and will slow evaporation/rising temp.

 

[Duane Pringle]

Got it

 

[7th Texas Mounted Rifles]

Lastly, as you are aware -

Your shot is in very good shape - please don't be discouraged if you don't have a drastically dirty tank when you are done...

You ARE stabilizing the ball for long term preservation and display, and you are preventing the future occurrance of what we call 'iron cancer'...

To fine-tune your hand at this, find yourself any old rusty scrap and repeat the process...

You will learn how both the mass of the relic, and the amount of soluble you mix in affect the current draw in your vat, the cook time and the overall outcome.

Oh, and just a final opinion - the high quality acrylic pedestal rings for displaying canister/cannon shot/ etc keeps them from rolling around and looks sharp!