Miscellaneous Thoughts and Inquiries

[LoisPauline]

My second season of reenacting is fast approaching so that means I have a tremendous amount of items strewn over the living room and dining room, much to my boyfriends dismay. Well, I'm trying to fine tune my impression that wasn't even close to being "tuned" last year...he's had 33 years in this, if he wasn't sure of what he was doing I might be worried.

I have a large wooden crate/trunk filled with under clothes, boots (not very authentic ones but they fit my feet), the awesome hat I made, and various other items. I also have a large wardrobe filled with dresses for myself and his daughter and a gown I wore to the barn dances last year but now I wish I had a different one so I could wear the previous one to the teas. But I digress...

What has been bouncing around my head for the last week has been jewelry and hair parts. In my past postings I've stated I generally steer clear of the extremely frilly and larger gowns. For what my little group portrays it simply isn't authentic. I know that fashion book, Godey's, was the be-all-end-all of ladies fashion in that era and likely this is where most of the outrageous styles came from. I'm looking at YOU hoop-skirt. But where did that middle part come from?

I hate a middle part. It makes my face look super round and frumpy. Just sliding it over an inch makes a world of a difference in the overall softness of a lady's face. Who came up with it? I see quite a lot of resemblance between the ladies of the era and their dolls. The middle parts, the updos, the bonnets...which came first? Were the ladies dressing like this and the dolls were fashioned after; or, were the dolls done up this way and for some weird reason our fashion started to mimic a children's toy?

...Who knows? Apparently not this baby and neither do I.

I honestly refuse to wear it. I know I know - I'm just stirring up trouble for those who are sticklers for authenticity and I honestly haven't found a single picture of a woman without her hair parted in the middle from high class to low class. I'm not doin' it. Where's my hat?! I'll show them.

Another thing I was thinking of came about while at a Saturday morning Farmer's Market. There was a delightful lady who made beautiful rings and bracelets out of old silverware. I'm talking gorgeous work! Perfectly molded and shaped just beautiful. What a clever idea, too! At first glance all I saw was how pretty the engravings were and then did my double take to see they were the handles. I've seen those nifty bent spoon bag hooks at some sutlers but that was about it. I started rambling to my boyfriend, "I wonder if anyone DID actually turn their old silverware into jewelry during this era, what an interesting topic...I mean think of the possibilities they had...I bet you'd see more of them being passed down though, right?" He just stared at me as I kept talking.

But really, I've done a few passes over good ole google but I know I haven't hit the correct wording yet. It makes sense to me if a gentleman was wanting to give his lady a ring or bracelet and had zero way to acquire the funds to do so would it have been so bad to bend some of the old silver no one was actually using? Probably not. Was it done? I'm thinking I'm gonna continue to find a no on this one.

 

[PrivateBrooke]

Yeah, the middle part is quite unfortunate for most. I have an oval shaped face, so can likely get away with it, but any other face shape... I usually offset mine anyway though.

 

[byron ed]

Keep in mind that civilian clothes and accoutrements were not gov't-issued; they had no pattern bound by contract to be respected. The "campaigner" level reenactor is justifiably concerned with such details, but that's driven by the military side.

To care greatly about one's civilian impression is rewarding, but unlike the military side almost anything can be defended as unique to a particular individual in the Antebellum and CW era -- even "incorrect" hair or misuse of a wardrobe. A civilian impression that follows "customary and usual" practice at the time is something to strive for, but it's not a religion.

On the civilian side there is no one that's become so knowledgeable on the topic that their opinion should be considered last word, despite their claims (as I've learned). Fact is, every single time I've ever heard "they would never do that" or "they didn't do that" it wasn't all that hard for me to find a CDV, tintype or account that proved an exception.

So I'm pretty sure I could find a period CDV, tintype or account that "proves" use of a woman's hair style not parted down the middle. (I think just last week there was a thread here about a very short "layered" bob that some war-period women adopted, yes?).

And while I'm not a fan of "if they could have done it they would have" -- that's how we end up with those stupid 1930s handyman-style slat chairs at events -- I sure don't feel that bent silverware is a big deal. Make the ring. Out of millions of people in Antebellum America or Europe, surely someone had bent silverware as a ring. It's not anyone's place to "deny" it, and blow them off if they do.... oh, ah, imho that is.

 

[Mrs. V]

My second season of reenacting is fast approaching so that means I have a tremendous amount of items strewn over the living room and dining room, much to my boyfriends dismay. Well, I'm trying to fine tune my impression that wasn't even close to being "tuned" last year...he's had 33 years in this, if he wasn't sure of what he was doing I might be worried.

I have a large wooden crate/trunk filled with under clothes, boots (not very authentic ones but they fit my feet), the awesome hat I made, and various other items. I also have a large wardrobe filled with dresses for myself and his daughter and a gown I wore to the barn dances last year but now I wish I had a different one so I could wear the previous one to the teas. But I digress...
View attachment 320971View attachment 320972



What has been bouncing around my head for the last week has been jewelry and hair parts. In my past postings I've stated I generally steer clear of the extremely frilly and larger gowns. For what my little group portrays it simply isn't authentic. I know that fashion book, Godey's, was the be-all-end-all of ladies fashion in that era and likely this is where most of the outrageous styles came from. I'm looking at YOU hoop-skirt. But where did that middle part come from?

I hate a middle part. It makes my face look super round and frumpy. Just sliding it over an inch makes a world of a difference in the overall softness of a lady's face. Who came up with it? I see quite a lot of resemblance between the ladies of the era and their dolls. The middle parts, the updos, the bonnets...which came first? Were the ladies dressing like this and the dolls were fashioned after; or, were the dolls done up this way and for some weird reason our fashion started to mimic a children's toy?
View attachment 320969...Who knows? Apparently not this baby and neither do I.

I honestly refuse to wear it. I know I know - I'm just stirring up trouble for those who are sticklers for authenticity and I honestly haven't found a single picture of a woman without her hair parted in the middle from high class to low class. I'm not doin' it. Where's my hat?! I'll show them.

Another thing I was thinking of came about while at a Saturday morning Farmer's Market. There was a delightful lady who made beautiful rings and bracelets out of old silverware. I'm talking gorgeous work! Perfectly molded and shaped just beautiful. What a clever idea, too! At first glance all I saw was how pretty the engravings were and then did my double take to see they were the handles. I've seen those nifty bent spoon bag hooks at some sutlers but that was about it. I started rambling to my boyfriend, "I wonder if anyone DID actually turn their old silverware into jewelry during this era, what an interesting topic...I mean think of the possibilities they had...I bet you'd see more of them being passed down though, right?" He just stared at me as I kept talking.
View attachment 320970


But really, I've done a few passes over good ole google but I know I haven't hit the correct wording yet. It makes sense to me if a gentleman was wanting to give his lady a ring or bracelet and had zero way to acquire the funds to do so would it have been so bad to bend some of the old silver no one was actually using? Probably not. Was it done? I'm thinking I'm gonna continue to find a no on this one.

You can always tell people that there was a fire, and this was the only part of the family plate that survived, so you had it turned into a ring!

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

I know nothing about reenacting except what I've picked up from members here at CWT. Hair and fashion, a bit more. These are probably more what Godey's and Demorests called ' coiffures ' but almost all lack that center part.

Here's where it's tough not being a " WELL as a matter of fact " jerk- where someone jumps at the chance to correct someone because they KNOW everything? I don't and like Bryon Ed said, no one knows everything anyway. There are images of women with middle parts, sorry sorry sorry. It can't have been it, like you said. You sound like you sure have done your homework so please take that for what it's worth and not a " WELL as a matter of fact "?

All of you reenactors could have it worse- if the ACW had been fought 10 or so years earlier you'd have to deal with this.

A gravity defying style with a double part, maybe around 1850?

Great post btw!

 

[LoisPauline]

All of you reenactors could have it worse- if the ACW had been fought 10 or so years earlier you'd have to deal with this.

A gravity defying style with a double part, maybe around 1850?
View attachment 321054

Great post btw!

Oh that whole thing is just begging for an airport TSA inspection! I wonder what it would be like if we brought that hair back today!

 

[LoisPauline]

There are images of women with middle parts, sorry sorry sorry.

And I don't think I made it clear I have ONLY found middle part pictures. Honest. Also, I have only just started my own research in the last year so I promise I know there are more out there.

Mainly my posts are just a bunch of gobbledy-gook that gets bouncing around and I have to get it out on some form of writing. I think with the direction my impression is going anyway I need to just forego even looking at Godey's because my "girl" would never have the funds to get it, the time to make the stuff, or the need to wear anything in it. She'd probably even rather shave her head but refrains for fear of being thought a looney!

On the civilian side there is no one that's become so knowledgeable on the topic that their opinion should be considered last word, despite their claims (as I've learned). Fact is, every single time I've ever heard "they would never do that" or "they didn't do that" it wasn't all that hard for me to find a CDV, tintype or account that proved an exception.

I have figured this was the case. I very much appreciate your comment on my post. I love the support here. I DO try relatively hard to be as authentic as possible when creating my impression because these people went through so much and for me to only go half way because I don't particularly care for the way it shapes my face it would, to me, be a slap in the face of those who went through the era in real time. That being said I tend to allow my heart to get involved and I try to put myself in their shoes "how would have a person handled such and such during a time of insert hardship here?" That is where my ramblings of the jewelry came from.

 

[Mrs. V]

And I don't think I made it clear I have ONLY found middle part pictures. Honest. Also, I have only just started my own research in the last year so I promise I know there are more out there.

Mainly my posts are just a bunch of gobbledy-gook that gets bouncing around and I have to get it out on some form of writing. I think with the direction my impression is going anyway I need to just forego even looking at Godey's because my "girl" would never have the funds to get it, the time to make the stuff, or the need to wear anything in it. She'd probably even rather shave her head but refrains for fear of being thought a looney!



I have figured this was the case. I very much appreciate your comment on my post. I love the support here. I DO try relatively hard to be as authentic as possible when creating my impression because these people went through so much and for me to only go half way because I don't particularly care for the way it shapes my face it would, to me, be a slap in the face of those who went through the era in real time. That being said I tend to allow my heart to get involved and I try to put myself in their shoes "how would have a person handled such and such during a time of insert hardship here?" That is where my ramblings of the jewelry came from.

Well, here is the thing. You could do a center part, but soften it with a pair of curl on the side of your face. It will draw the eye down, and lengthen your face. Also, as a zaftig girl, I have learned to embrace how I look, and if you dress well, that is what people will see. I'd not draw the hair so tight to your head. And then there are the rats...

 

[PrivateBrooke]

Even back then, I'm sure there were plenty who eschewed trends, just like there are today. Middle parts were in style, but I'm sure there were women who hated how it looked on them and refused to do it, opting for an offset part, a side part, or even no part at all. Or were comfortable with "ten years ago" and opted to dress and wear their hair in such a way, despite it being out of style.

Also it's important to remember that photographs are just a mere snippet and don't represent actual reality. Especially portraits. Remember school picture day? How much of a fuss your mother would make over your hair, clothes, etc? More so than they ever would on a normal day. My brother rarely ever did anything at all to his hair, but anytime there was going to be a picture taken, out came the comb and hair gel/mouse to make **** sure he had a perfect part and his hair was slicked back all nice and neat. Even despite all his protesting and "I look fine"-s. Who's to say, definitively, that was how she wore her hair on a normal day when she didn't know she would be posing for a picture? None of us, we weren't there.

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

And I don't think I made it clear I have ONLY found middle part pictures. Honest. Also, I have only just started my own research in the last year so I promise I know there are more out there.

Mainly my posts are just a bunch of gobbledy-gook that gets bouncing around and I have to get it out on some form of writing. I think with the direction my impression is going anyway I need to just forego even looking at Godey's because my "girl" would never have the funds to get it, the time to make the stuff, or the need to wear anything in it. She'd probably even rather shave her head but refrains for fear of being thought a looney!

OHHHHH sorry, my myopic eyes read that differently! Blond + age. Good catch on who read Godey's! You find an awful lot of class distinction creeping through articles and stories " The trouble with housemaids " and " Can you believe my housekeeper did this " and " My servant wouldn't keep a proper distance so we had to let her go " . Gives you the willies.

I never thought about what women would do if that center part wasn't what they wanted to do. First thing I thought of was a baffling image of Ellen McClelland? Have you seen it? I'm guessing your girl wasn't the same ( gag ) ' class ' as Ellen but you all had the same problems when it came to hair. Is that a flower she's pinned right at the top of her hairline, maybe hiding the center part?

 

[Seduzal]

Thanks for sharing this interesting article and photos. Enjoyed it.

 

[Mrs. V]

OHHHHH sorry, my myopic eyes read that differently! Blond + age. Good catch on who read Godey's! You find an awful lot of class distinction creeping through articles and stories " The trouble with housemaids " and " Can you believe my housekeeper did this " and " My servant wouldn't keep a proper distance so we had to let her go " . Gives you the willies.

I never thought about what women would do if that center part wasn't what they wanted to do. First thing I thought of was a baffling image of Ellen McClelland? Have you seen it? I'm guessing your girl wasn't the same ( gag ) ' class ' as Ellen but you all had the same problems when it came to hair. Is that a flower she's pinned right at the top of her hairline, maybe hiding the center part?
View attachment 321257

I bet it is hiding that center part! I can't imagine the hours and pomade that must have gone into the making of her hair!! And did you see the earrings? Very unique. They look like vulcanite, don't they? So very modern in design, I'd wear them!

 

[Lubliner]

A lot of good in depth thoughts here which I like, and an ample dash of sweet humor. Pardon my 'know-nothing'ism's' but were wigs prevalent among women (God forgive the early male habit) during the period, and 'teasing the hair'? Was that a form of hair-setting, and were their tress attachments. All this sounds interesting.
Lubliner.

 

[Mrs. V]

A lot of good in depth thoughts here which I like, and an ample dash of sweet humor. Pardon my 'know-nothing'ism's' but were wigs prevalent among women (God forgive the early male habit) during the period, and 'teasing the hair'? Was that a form of hair-setting, and were their tress attachments. All this sounds interesting.
Lubliner.

I don't know about wigs, but I do know that there were human hair add ons. The ladies would also collect their hair from the brush in a receptacle, until they could build a "rat" which is basically a cushion of hair, that could be used to add body to the hair at the side of the head. And it would be a perfect match, so invisible.

 

[captaindrew]

I'm no help at all for lady's fashions other than my other half just pulls her hair straight back into a bun and puts a hat on, pretty easy fix. Don't fret too much on thinking every little detail has to be perfect. That comes with time and experience, no matter how long you do this you're always learning something new. That's the best part of the hobby for me anyway. Look forward to seeing you this season.

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

I bet it is hiding that center part! I can't imagine the hours and pomade that must have gone into the making of her hair!! And did you see the earrings? Very unique. They look like vulcanite, don't they? So very modern in design, I'd wear them!

I didn't notice the earrings until you pointed them out! I've never seen any like them in era photos before-they do look like something you'd see in 2019! She was from a very ' society ' family, guessing the women in those circles followed fashion with enthusiasm?

So vulcanite? Sounds like a thread all by itself- Vulcanite, jet, ivory, OH those micro-mosaics they wore? It'd probably take a reenactor to do it justice.

Here's something one of you may know more about. I JUST ran into something called an ' enameling salon '. It sounds crazy and I just can't find more. like a beauty salon but specifically for ' enameling '. Some way of making a woman's face, neck and chest very white- it lasted days which meant you couldn't bathe. One was described in an era book ( I'd have to re-find the link ), along with a sketch.

 

[Mrs. V]

Oh my gosh, a jewelry thread would be long indeed! Hmm...I may be back later!

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

Oh my gosh, a jewelry thread would be long indeed! Hmm...I may be back later!

Please? I'll whine and it's not attractive.

 

[Mrs. V]

Please? I'll whine and it's not attractive.

Give me a bit. Just went back to school!

 

[Mrs. V]

Please? I'll whine and it's not attractive.

Your wish is my command.