Making a Period Shirt

Carlos2295

Cadet
Joined
Jan 18, 2017
To reenact on a budget, while not being a farb, I had one idea. What if I take a modern button up shirt, and alter it to a period correct shirt? I've seen many original photos, and reproductions of 1860's to 1890's shirts. Here are the alterations I would make:

  • I wear a size XL, so I'll choose a shirt that is XLT (taller), as shirts were longer back then.
  • Choose shirt with period correct woven pattern.
  • Remove collar and convert to band collar.
  • Hem bottom to be square cut.
  • replace buttons with metal buttons.
One make it or break it detail, though. Would there have been any full button shirts back then? To my knowledge, that style was more popular in the late 19th century, but I'm not sure about Civil War era.
 
If you're confidant enough in your sewing capabilities to do all of those modifications you'd be much better served by sewing a correct short to being with. You can find directions for cutting your own shirt "on the square" online for free, or get a pattern from the likes of Ben Tart, or County Cloth, or even just grab a ready to sew kit from folks like Wambaugh, White & Co: https://wwandcompany.com/civilian-shirt-kits/
 
1860s shirts were generally pullovers. Rather than experimentally modifying a modern shirt, I might recommend taking the time to make a simple period one.

Material might include flannel, or cotton. For myself, old bedsheets from thrift stores made my first shirts.

Here is a diagram of the US Army issue flannel shirt.
1669659060688.png


Here's an original US Army flannel shirt of the above type.
1669660174027.png



Here is the simple patten for a shirt from the Sanitary Commission. Sew a strap, like on the army shirt above, over the seam on the shoulders. Modify as necessary for sizes.

1669659329951.png



Could be make of cotton too, etc.

sometimes they had pockets fixed on the fronts. This is a Confederate soldier's shirt picked up at the Battle of Nashville.
1669658777664.png
 
Don´t do it. You´ll always regret it because you´ll know it´s not even close to costume correct. A plain white shirt from Fall Creek is about $45. You´ll be able to wear it for 5-8 years, maybe more. I have one shirt that´s easily pushing 15. With the time and expense of trying to modify a modern garment, you´ll have that much invested and a product that´s arguably inferior.
 
To echo what's already been said, just buy a shirt or make one from scratch. The materials aren't too hard or expensive to come by, and the garment is fairly simple overall. So simple, in fact, that even most mainstream sutlers make decent shirts these days. I've seen some nice ones on Etsy as well.
 
"..Jo-Ann Fabrics has the muslin"

Muslin? Eww. Just no. Stay away muslin for shirts and drawers. The white muslin shirt is a mark of a mainstream reenactor. The goal is to look like soldiers from the period, not like today's reenactors.

If a Federal shirt, you want domet flannel. W&W has some soft domet flannel. Link : https://wwandcompany.com/domet-flannel-for-u-s-shirts/

If a Confederate shirt, go with Tart's osnaburg. https://www.bnbtart.com/cloth/osnaburg.html Their osnaburg is much better quality than the JoAnn's osnaburg.

- S.S. Mucket
 
Old bedsheets for the win! Make your own pattern, using your modern shirt as a guide for sleeve length and chest/waist measure. Keep in mind that the sleeves attach to the body of the shirt with a triangular gusset. Gives your arm freedom of movement.
 

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