Leather safe to display?

[Conquerordie]

I've been combing all the posts I could find on civil war leather and preservation of it. I have a cap pouch, and would like to purchase a cartridge box and belt to finish a set. So my question; how do you display it? I've read over and over how bad humidity is, how bad UV light is, how bad artificial light is. It's amazing any leather exists at all! My thought was to buy a display box made by a variety of manufacturers with UV blocking glass or acrylic, but internet searching shows a lot of the really don't work. So how the heck do you display your leather? I can not see purchasing these kind of items and putting them in a box somewhere dark and never enjoying them. My lowly cap pouch has the soldiers name stencilled inside the outer flap, and it's one of my favorite pieces. But I can never enjoy it with the rest of my display. Any ideas?

 

[captaindrew]

Paging @Package4 he has a lot of leather in his collection and I'm sure he can give you some good advice.

 

[Jack7171]

Following

 

[Package4]

I've been combing all the posts I could find on civil war leather and preservation of it. I have a cap pouch, and would like to purchase a cartridge box and belt to finish a set. So my question; how do you display it? I've read over and over how bad humidity is, how bad UV light is, how bad artificial light is. It's amazing any leather exists at all! My thought was to buy a display box made by a variety of manufacturers with UV blocking glass or acrylic, but internet searching shows a lot of the really don't work. So how the heck do you display your leather? I can not see purchasing these kind of items and putting them in a box somewhere dark and never enjoying them. My lowly cap pouch has the soldiers name stencilled inside the outer flap, and it's one of my favorite pieces. But I can never enjoy it with the rest of my display. Any ideas?

As long as your leather is already in good shape, you should be fine. You still need to be cognizant of UV, too much heat and humidity. Displaying in a curio cabinet out of direct sunlight in a climate controlled environment should not hurt the pieces.

Most of what you read is for pieces that have issues, from red rot to improper previous care I.e. neatsfoot oil, saddle soap etc.

Edit: To be clear, do not use anything on the piece, no neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, Percards; I can't tell you how many great leather pieces are destroyed that way.

 

[Borderruffian]

Mink oil or saddle soap

 

[RedRover]

Leather issues:

Degredation and Conservation of Leather...

From Canada, reference to issues regarding historic leather care...

Leather care: temperature... Canada

Leather Care: Relative Humidity: Canada

Light exposures as agents of deterioration... Canada


Display issues.. From Canada.. of a fragile leather antique...

Canada, display of fragile leather artifact...

 

[bayonet]

As long as your leather is already in good shape, you should be fine. You still need to be cognizant of UV, too much heat and humidity. Displaying in a curio cabinet out of direct sunlight in a climate controlled environment should not hurt the pieces.

Most of what you read is for pieces that have issues, from red rot to improper previous care I.e. neatsfoot oil, saddle soap etc.

Edit: To be clear, do not use anything on the piece, no neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, Percards; I can't tell you how many great leather pieces are destroyed that way.

What about Neatsfoot Compound? It was recommended here on this website for leather sword handles.

 

[iron bender]

I agree with Package4. Don't use leather 'products' on original gear. I pass on a piece of gear if it's been 'improved' every time. A climate controled, dry environment is perfect. Leather preservative is great for the gear you use on a regular basis, in the field.

 

[Jeff in Ohio]

What about Neatsfoot Compound? It was recommended here on this website for leather sword handles.

Listen to Package4's wisdom
Neatsfoot oil and vintage leather don't get along

 

[Conquerordie]

Thank you all. Yes, I've read that even though a lot of leather dressing were used in the past, none are recommended right now, so I've used none. The outer flap has some cracking to its surface, but the rest of the pouch is stable. Ill post a pic or two later today. I've looked at museum grade displays that cost way more than the pouch did. I've also looked at a company that makes boxes for sports memorabilia, but will substitute museum grade UV protective glass. The cost on these are much lower. A box like that will keep the dust off, and give it some light protection, just got to figure out humidity. I live in upstate NY, and in the summer it's humid, and in the winter its dry. For instance, in my house with the heat on, the humidity has swung slightly from a high of 43%, to a low of 39% in the last 24 hours. I think leather is suppose to stay around 50% if possible. Like everyone here, I want to preserve, not deteriorate. If I can't do that, then I'd rather collect other items from the time that will be more stable. I don't want to destroy history. Keep the opinions coming.

 

[Jeff in Ohio]

We should not take advice about how to clean and treat modern saddles, boots, halters and harnesses that see current use, and apply those methods to old leather.

I think the science is that there were many methods of tanning leather used in the past, and the respond differently to different treatment.

The items consist of non-leather parts, and so some treatment that may work for the leather can damage the non-leather parts.
As an example, I heard that neatsfoot oil can destroy the thread used to sew up leather items over time.

Also, some treatments are not the made the same as they were in the past, and so what is sold as "neatsfoot oil" may contain petroleum compounds not found in past formulations of "neatsfoot oil."

Also, damage would not happen immediately - it might that years for the injury to show up.

A professional curator working on a single item can take the time to test the object to determine how it was tanned, but you and i can't - we are much wiser to just leave an item alone.

 

[bayonet]

Listen to Package4's wisdom
Neatsfoot oil and vintage leather don't get along

Well it seems to be doing fine when I just use it on sword handles/grips. So what do you recommend then? Plus I've only applied it once since it was recommended by someone on this website. As far as any other leather, I avoid it it my collection to include leather scabbards. I'll stick with the metal ones.

 

[Sowbelly and Hardtack]

As long as your leather is already in good shape, you should be fine. You still need to be cognizant of UV, too much heat and humidity. Displaying in a curio cabinet out of direct sunlight in a climate controlled environment should not hurt the pieces.

Most of what you read is for pieces that have issues, from red rot to improper previous care I.e. neatsfoot oil, saddle soap etc.

Edit: To be clear, do not use anything on the piece, no neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, Percards; I can't tell you how many great leather pieces are destroyed that way.

To quote @Package4:

"To be clear, do not use anything on the piece, no neatsfoot oil, saddle soap, Percards; I can't tell you how many great leather pieces are destroyed that way."

I can't emphasize this enough.

 

[Jack7171]

I have an original knapsack,,,someone previously tried treating it with something to preserve it,,, it's a slimy, sticky, tacky mess that dust sticks to, and it makes it stink something terrible, like a wet dog. The inside flaps that were left untreated, are dry. One of things a Smithsonian conservationist told me, never apply ANYTHING to an artifact that you can't remove.

 

[Conquerordie]

Here's some pics to give you a better idea on condition:

The leather seems dry to me, has a nice shape as the original wool is still intact. Just concerned over deteriorating because I display it wrong.

Pvt. Eugene Nutting Co.K 24th NYSV. He carried this pouch from 1861 until the regiments time was up in May of 1863. He then joined the 20th NY calvary and fought until the end of the war. The 24th NY was part of the Iron Brigade of the East and fought in various battles including 2nd Manassas, South Mountain, Antietam in Phelps Brigade in the Cornfield, Fredericksburg, the Mud March in Jan'63, and held in reserve at Chancellorsville. I know it's just a cap pouch, and they are common, but it is my favorite item in my collection.

 

[Package4]

Here's some pics to give you a better idea on condition:
View attachment 491606View attachment 491607View attachment 491608
The leather seems dry to me, has a nice shape as the original wool is still intact. Just concerned over deteriorating because I display it wrong.

Pvt. Eugene Nutting Co.K 24th NYSV. He carried this pouch from 1861 until the regiments time was up in May of 1863. He then joined the 20th NY calvary and fought until the end of the war. The 24th NY was part of the Iron Brigade of the East and fought in various battles including 2nd Manassas, South Mountain, Antietam in Phelps Brigade in the Cornfield, Fredericksburg, the Mud March in Jan'63, and held in reserve at Chancellorsville. I know it's just a cap pouch, and they are common, but it is my favorite item in my collection.

Very nice and early war piece and not just a cap box, an identified cap box, whose history may be verified. Looks to be in good condition, just leave it as is and treasure it! Great acquisition!

 

[Package4]

Well it seems to be doing fine when I just use it on sword handles/grips. So what do you recommend then? Plus I've only applied it once since it was recommended by someone on this website. As far as any other leather, I avoid it it my collection to include leather scabbards. I'll stick with the metal ones.

The problem with period leather is that most have dried out over the years and there is no easy way to replace the moisture required to bring the pieces back. Neatsfoot, Saddle Soap, Percards etc are shortcuts that actually harm the leather more than the short term aesthetic They provide. Many times they seal in dirt and bacteria which destroys the piece from the inside out, promoting mold growth.

I have posted numerous times on this site, the current procedures used by:

The National Park Service
Imperial War Museum
The Smithsonian
Texas A&M
and a University in Europe, whose name escapes me right now, who specializes in underwater artifact recovery and preservation.

We are only current custodians of our artifacts and it is incumbent upon us to pass them on in the same shape we obtained them.

 

[Package4]

Thank you all. Yes, I've read that even though a lot of leather dressing were used in the past, none are recommended right now, so I've used none. The outer flap has some cracking to its surface, but the rest of the pouch is stable. Ill post a pic or two later today. I've looked at museum grade displays that cost way more than the pouch did. I've also looked at a company that makes boxes for sports memorabilia, but will substitute museum grade UV protective glass. The cost on these are much lower. A box like that will keep the dust off, and give it some light protection, just got to figure out humidity. I live in upstate NY, and in the summer it's humid, and in the winter its dry. For instance, in my house with the heat on, the humidity has swung slightly from a high of 43%, to a low of 39% in the last 24 hours. I think leather is suppose to stay around 50% if possible. Like everyone here, I want to preserve, not deteriorate. If I can't do that, then I'd rather collect other items from the time that will be more stable. I don't want to destroy history. Keep the opinions coming.

You are more than fine with those humidity rates……

 

[Jeff in Ohio]

Interesting that he marked such an inexpensive (at the time) piece of leather.
They charged a soldier for lost items. But can you imagine a soldier who thought someone else had taken his belt with cap box and cartridge box going from one comrade to another asking them to raise the flap of each cap box!!!!
Lots of items were marked after the War when the owner lent them for display at the local museum or GAR meeting hall. But this soldier stamped on his first unit, and not his later units of service.

 

[Conquerordie]

So do most of the stencils I see for sale come from a post war era? I see what you are saying about it being a relatively cheap piece of equipment, but if he had a stencil, then why not mark your kit? Just curious. I just assumed most of those stencils were made for the soldier to mark his equipment. From what I've read they could buy stencils made from sutlers? I can see marking something with your name post war like you mentioned as well. Good info!