Just need an opinion

[Shannon Wolf]

I found some homespun cotton in a small print Navy and red plaid/check. Would this work for both a work dress and a mans shirt. I really love the look of it.

 

[MaryDee]

Do you have a photo? I'd want to compare the print with my "bible," Dating Fabrics by Eileen Jahnke Trestain. Plaids are fine, but they would not be very small. Checks are OK as long as not "houndstoothy."

Homespun is definitely a Confederate thing, especially for the last 2 or so years of the war. It wouldn't be historically correct for Union wear, since ready-made fabric was always available in the North. Also, garments sewn in the Confederacy in the last 2 or so years of the war would be hand-sewn. Homespun thread varied enough in thickness that it would jam up in the sewing machine. In other words, Confederate ladies may have had access to sewing machines, but with homespun thread, they were useless.

Of course much depends on how accurate you want your impression to be. Hopefully nobody is going to check the long seams that don't show from the surface! I've had the opportunity to examine original period garments at close range, and it's amazing how regular and tiny those stitches are--looks like 14-16 stitches per inch. Unless it's top-stitching (something I try to avoid), the garment may actually look more "period" machine sewn with a fine stitch.

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

I found some homespun cotton in a small print Navy and red plaid/check. Would this work for both a work dress and a mans shirt. I really love the look of it.

Yes, you can't do better than send a pic to Mary Dee. I did just notice, in fabric ads, what they call homespun might be a little loose? You experts would have to sort that out, I know. Is it possible what is called homespun, in a store somewhere, might not be what ladies in the South had to deal with?

It would be wonderful if you sewers would begin threads when you've gotten your dresses and shirts done, if it's not too intrusive to ask, please? I understand if you would rather not. These historical garments are just lovely to see,

 

[MaryDee]

I haven't yet figured out how to post photos here. I've had no luck with external photo sites (which now appear to cost money). I have lots of photos of original garments I took at the workshop I attended three years ago.

Annie is right, the homespun-style fabric will be loose, so the dress bodice will need a firm lining. (Original women's garments were almost always lined.)

 

[Stiles/Akin]

If you have a photo saved as a jpeg images save it to your desktop. Click upload a file, go to the desktop and select the file. Give it a moment to load and then select Full Image or Thumbnail.

Just like this.​

 

[MaryDee]

Thanks, @Stiles/Akin; I'll try that! I was able to upload my avatar sometime back, but I've forgotten what I did! I'm afraid that technology has left me a bit behind in my old age. I did great with the computer while I was still working, but it's 18 years since I retired.

When I figure out what I'm doing, I'll try to start a separate thread for the photos of original women's garments. However, the workshop covered the period 1810-1910, so I have to be careful that I pick the ones from the late 1850s-early 1860s.

 

[Shannon Wolf]

So no pictures. I'm doing research before I set foot in the store. That way I can order online, go to the store, and go straight to customer service to pick up. Otherwise I will get lost in the sea of sewing notions.
This is what I was looking at:
http://www.joann.com/homespun-cotton-fabric--43in-red-navy-plaid/15383995.html#q=homespun&start=1

 

[Shannon Wolf]

Yes, you can't do better than send a pic to Mary Dee. I did just notice, in fabric ads, what they call homespun might be a little loose? You experts would have to sort that out, I know. Is it possible what is called homespun, in a store somewhere, might not be what ladies in the South had to deal with?

It would be wonderful if you sewers would begin threads when you've gotten your dresses and shirts done, if it's not too intrusive to ask, please? I understand if you would rather not. These historical garments are just lovely to see,

I am having to start from scratch. Most of my dresses and things got eaten by rats. I'm working on fixing my crinoline now and finding the right cording for a corded petticoat (When I volunteer in the fort I work in the laundry. A hoop is completely impractical.), I have been afraid to try my corset. I've gained 10 inches since I last wore it. Chemises, bloomers. All of it has to be redone. I've been keeping an eye on my Joann's coupons so when I get a 50% off or higher coupon I go in and get things. Next two checks will be muslin for underpinnings (A bolt counts as a single run of Fabric so you can get a full bolt for like $20 to $30 if your careful) and then some sort of cotton for dresses. I live in the South and the heat is something else.

 

[MaryDee]

Well, I would say it should be OK as far as the pattern goes. I'm more concerned about the fabric and its source--it sounds rather fragile. First of all, if you can't find it in your store,get a sample swatch before ordering the full 7 1/2 to 8 yards needed for a dress. I don't know if JoAnn's does swatches, but you can order 1/4 yard. Also, I'd definitely buy 1 yard more than the needed yardage because, judging from the description, the fabric source, and the laundry instructions (hand wash cold, line dry), it definitely will shrink. Be sure to pre-shrink the fabric, using the laundry instructions, before you do anything with it. As I mentioned, the fabric sounds stretchy. If it is, you'll definitely need to line the bodice.

I'd be really dubious about cotton print dress fabrics from JoAnn's--nearly all of their quilting prints are unsuitable for the period. Their best quality cotton muslin, though, works well for underthings. I did splurge on pimatex (which I'm told is the closest thing to mid-19th century longcloth) for my outer petticoat. Whatever you get, be sure it's 100% cotton (no polyester!), which is far better in the heat.

There are several large discount fabric stores where you can shop online and get good (generally discontinued) reproduction prints, such as fabric.com and fashionfabricsclub.com. I'd check them out, too. I do notice that fabric.com has gone more to late 19th/early 20th century (Downton Abbey) type fabrics.

Corded petticoats went extinct in the mid 1850s when the steel cage came in, so if you're doing Civil War era, I wouldn't bother making one. In situations where hoops are unsafe and/or not allowed, like the laundry, campfires, hospitals, 2-3 full petticoats under the dress skirt will be sufficient.

No rats, but I did have mice get into my stuff--the only thing they ate was most of my wool sontag, but that was $90 down the drain, and it was almost new. Death to rodents! Good idea to invest in rodent-proof storage!

Edited to correct stupid autocorrect--the correct term for the 19th century cotton fabric used for underthings is "longcloth," not "loincloth"!

 

[Shannon Wolf]

Well, I would say it should be OK as far as the pattern goes. I'm more concerned about the fabric and its source--it sounds rather fragile. First of all, if you can't find it in your store,get a sample swatch before ordering the full 7 1/2 to 8 yards needed for a dress. I don't know if JoAnn's does swatches, but you can order 1/4 yard. Also, I'd definitely buy 1 yard more than the needed yardage because, judging from the description, the fabric source, and the laundry instructions (hand wash cold, line dry), it definitely will shrink. Be sure to pre-shrink the fabric, using the laundry instructions, before you do anything with it. As I mentioned, the fabric sounds stretchy. If it is, you'll definitely need to line the bodice.

I'd be really dubious about cotton print dress fabrics from JoAnn's--nearly all of their quilting prints are unsuitable for the period. Their best quality cotton muslin, though, works well for underthings. I did splurge on pimatex (which I'm told is the closest thing to mid-19th century loincloth) for my outer petticoat. Whatever you get, be sure it's 100% cotton (no polyester!), which is far better in the heat.

There are several large discount fabric stores where you can shop online and get good (generally discontinued) reproduction prints, such as fabric.com and fashionfabricsclub.com. I'd check them out, too. I do notice that fabric.com has gone more to late 19th/early 20th century (Downton Abbey) type fabrics.

Corded petticoats went extinct in the mid 1850s when the steel cage came in, so if you're doing Civil War era, I wouldn't bother making one. In situations where hoops are unsafe and/or not allowed, like the laundry, campfires, hospitals, 2-3 full petticoats under the dress skirt will be sufficient.

No rats, but I did have mice get into my stuff--the only thing they ate was most of my wool sontag, but that was $90 down the drain, and it was almost new. Death to rodents! Good idea to invest in rodent-proof storage!

I actually moved so I no longer have to worry about them. I'm excited to get back into the hobby. I spend way too much time in my chair with my crochet hook and the tv on. It's just being on a budget makes getting dresses and things hard.

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

I actually moved so I no longer have to worry about them. I'm excited to get back into the hobby. I spend way too much time in my chair with my crochet hook and the tv on. It's just being on a budget makes getting dresses and things hard.

Hoping no one tells me to shush- and it is just fine if you girls do, honest! What I know on the topic could fit in a rodent proof bag. Ever since I joined here, this sewing for reenacting has fascinated me- and knitting. I'm on the bleachers, just find the whole thing absorbing. It's preserving History, too, from what it seems from the outside.

You do wonder what in blazes rats and mice find tasty about our nicest garments, right? It's not like they're high in iron or vitamin C, or chocolate coated.

Here's a question Any sewing/quilting groups in your area? Only ask because members of groups tend to have ( sometimes, you know how you can bump into unexpected things ) mysterious connections to sources- warehouses or some place bolts were bought out from a store going out of business, that kind of thing. Mom sewed a lot , until her fingers couldn't do it any more. AND she's Scots. That means what you'd think, better believe. Boy could she sew a dress for a nickel. I know you women in the hobby have specific needs, in fabric but who knows?

 

[MaryDee]

Although it isn't as active as it used to be, I've gotten a lot of help from Elizabeth Stewart Clark's "SA Board" on http://www.thesewingacademy.com I'm sure that any questions asked on that Board will be answered within a week or so. There's lots of free info in the "Compendium" section. there, and you can buy her excellent book, The Dressmaker's Guide. Do note that the period covered on her website (and book) is 1840-1865. I've found this helpful because here at the end of the Oregon Trail, and at Fort Vancouver, we have the opportunity to do both the 1840s and 1860s. I just wish I hadn't made my dress with coat sleeves, because coat sleeves are specifically an 1860s fashion item.

I just realized that I haven't bought any dress fabric for the past three years, so my info on fabric vendors is not as current as it could be.

My reenactment group has put on two seminars in the last 5 years, another great source of info, and we have a professional who does 19th century sewing and gives lessons. These, plus Liz' website, has been an enormous help--I started in 2013 knowing absolutely nothing. There's lots of info available at Fort Vancouver NHP (just across the Columbia River from me), too. If you're close to a period museum, you can find help there.

For @Shannon Wolf: Sewing tucks or flounces in the outer petticoat will give it more body, especially if you starch. I love tucks but they are tricky--measure and calculate not just once or twice, but 3 or 4 times! Either is easier than an out-of-date (assuming you're doing the Civil War) corded petticoat.

I have no idea why the mice ignored anything of cotton to snack on the wool! Also, they specifically went for the sontag and ignored my wool shawl!

 

[JPK Huson 1863]

I have no idea why the mice ignored anything of cotton to snack on the wool! Also, they specifically went for the sontag and ignored my wool shawl!

How can either be tasty, is what I'd like to know? From the looks of my well-locked and sealed trunk, an entire family ate half a linen table cloth, raised several generations in the other half, then rearranged their molecules to get back out of there.

Did you make your sontag, please? Nearly did a thread on them, then decided I just did not know enough- may be an ancient one around here- have learned not to post threads unless much better informed.

 

[MaryDee]

No, I bought the sontag from Abraham's Lady, while attending an extremely frosty Cedar Creek reenactment in October 2013. I unfortunately neither knit nor crochet. I was wearing the sontag, a thick wool shawl, and long underwear under my dress while attending the dedication of the Vermont State historical plaque, and I still froze!

My eldest son's cavalry unit (6th Ohio Cavalry) was present at the dedication, representing the Vermont cavalry. They were joined by some cavalry reenactors from Vermont, who brought with them a number of beautiful grass hay bales as a present for the horses. Unfortunately, a number of politicians decided the dedication was time for long-winded speeches, while everyone else froze!

 

[Shannon Wolf]

@MaryDee I'm sorry the cute furry demons of destruction got your pretties. There's another thread on period crochet patterns with a pretty sontag in it.

I forgot how many bits and pieces one outfit takes. Though as I have unpacked more of my house I have found treasures. Things that survived the furry invasion, petticoats, hoop covers. The tea cup and saucer bought at my first event. Little victories. I was going to go shopping Thursday, but now am having to wait until Sunday, my work decided to give me my overtime back. Mostly because the folks up north are getting a blizzard. I have found some interesting resources for hair covers like Sally Beauty Supply. I'm still trying to figure out how to pin my hair in place. I have yet to find period hairpins though I know they have to existed. My hair is exceedingly heavy and needs industrial strength support. I'm going to focus on underpinnings this check and dresses next.

 

[Shannon Wolf]

How can either be tasty, is what I'd like to know? From the looks of my well-locked and sealed trunk, an entire family ate half a linen table cloth, raised several generations in the other half, then rearranged their molecules to get back out of there.

Did you make your sontag, please? Nearly did a thread on them, then decided I just did not know enough- may be an ancient one around here- have learned not to post threads unless much better informed.

So not to freak you out or anything, but from my understanding rats bones are very pliable and as long as their spine fits they can get into a hole the size of a quarter, mice can fit through a space the size of a dime.

 

[MaryDee]

I have the opposite problem with my hair, since it's in a short pixie cut. Fortunately, women of my advanced age still wore caps in the 1860s. In fact, Eric Wittenberg's book on General John Buford at Gettysburg, The Devil's to Pay, shows his wife in a cap, and she couldn't have been more than 40.

I've seen what purported to be period hairpins (reproductions) at various vendors, but have no idea if they are really period. Since I of course don't need them, I haven't investigated.

 

[Shannon Wolf]

I found a treasure
https://books.google.com/books?id=E...=gbs_selected_pages&cad=2#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

[Shannon Wolf]

http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/hair_19th_century.html

This as well, short but interesting

http://bethsbobbins.blogspot.com/2015/06/1850s-1860s-hair-dressing-tools.html

It has a picture of an actual hairpin with provenance! And where to get them.

https://www.amishvalleyproducts.com...mish-valley-products-stainless-steel-hairpins

Amish style hairpins. And they look like they disappear into the hair.

 

[Shannon Wolf]

I had a link here not what I thought it was