How To Scan/Photograph Ambrotype?

[MajMarionPatterson]

Are you annoyed with me yet?

So, I'm looking at the ambrotype that frontrank2 posted of the young drummer boy from the Library of Congress, Liljenquist Collection, and wondering how they got such a great photo/scan of that ambrotype. I'd like to take the one I have of my gg grandfather and have the same process done. Any ideas on how they do that? And then where to go, minus begging the LOC? Thank you again.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I certainly could use some advice with scanning an ambrotype. Anyone? It that something Kinko's could do on a quality machine? Just taking a photo of the ambrotype doesn't seem to bring good results. Thank you.

 

[John Winn]

I certainly could use some advice with scanning an ambrotype. Anyone? It that something Kinko's could do on a quality machine? Just taking a photo of the ambrotype doesn't seem to bring good results. Thank you.

I really don't know about ambrotypes per se but I'd think taking a digital photo would be your best bet. A scan, if done with good equipment, could work but a good camera will give you more control and much higher resolution. You'll have to get the lighting and background right and will need a tripod to do the best job though. These days it seems photography shops have mostly gone out of business but if there's one near you you might try calling and seeing if they can get the image for you. I used such a shop some years ago to digitally capture old family photos (although not anything like as old as yours). My wife has recently successfully photographed (and then digitally "fixed") family photos her mother owns and it worked really well. Good luck.

 

[E_just_E]

Here. I suspect that you would need professional quality scanner to do that.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

Here. I suspect that you would need professional quality scanner to do that.

yes, i think that's the road i will head down. thank you so much.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I really don't know about ambrotypes per se but I'd think taking a digital photo would be your best bet. A scan, if done with good equipment, could work but a good camera will give you more control and much higher resolution. You'll have to get the lighting and background right and will need a tripod to do the best job though. These days it seems photography shops have mostly gone out of business but if there's one near you you might try calling and seeing if they can get the image for you. I used such a shop some years ago to digitally capture old family photos (although not anything like as old as yours). My wife has recently successfully photographed (and then digitally "fixed") family photos her mother owns and it worked really well. Good luck.

i like your idea of taking to a professional photographer. whenever i have tried to take a photo of the ambrotype, i can't seem to get rid of the glare, or seeing the camera in the reflection. i'm usually pretty good, but this one is really hard. thank you.

 

[John Winn]

i like your idea of taking to a professional photographer. whenever i have tried to take a photo of the ambrotype, i can't seem to get rid of the glare, or seeing the camera in the reflection. i'm usually pretty good, but this one is really hard. thank you.

I hope you can find somebody and that it works out well. Sometimes it's a matter of having the right stuff for the job.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I hope you can find somebody and that it works out well. Sometimes it's a matter of having the right stuff for the job.

isn't THAT the truth!!!

 

[Forrest]

All scanners have either a CCD or CIS scanner element. The key is to get one with a CCD scanning element. Scanners with CIS elements are fine for flat items, but anything with depth (like an ambrotype behind a mat behind a piece of glass) will result in a blurry image.

All the ambrotypes I have posted here were scanned with a CCD element scanner.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

All scanners have either a CCD or CIS scanner element. The key is to get one with a CCD scanning element. Scanners with CIS elements are fine for flat items, but anything with depth (like an ambrotype behind a mat behind a piece of glass) will result in a blurry image.

All the ambrotypes I have posted here were scanned with a CCD element scanner.

THAT was the answer I was looking for! I couldn't explain it to anyone. Thank you so much, will make this a lot easier.

 

[Mint Julep]

I would think that the intense light from a scanner could damage a period image.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I would think that the intense light from a scanner could damage a period image.

They are done all the time, at the National Archives, Library of Congress, and beyond. I'm not worried about that actually. It's just one time, one good scan. Like these...

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/resource/ppmsca.39546/

 

[Forrest]

I would think that the intense light from a scanner could damage a period image.

I recommend googling it for multiple opinions, before you begin scanning.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I recommend googling it for multiple opinions, before you begin scanning.

i can do that.

 

[Forrest]

I would do it just for peace of mind - Dags and Ambros were very intimidating to me at first because of their fragile nature, the fact that they are each one-off and they are old and pieces of history. Now I feel much more safe dealing with them, but not like one of my friends who has them hanging all over his walls (I think he is nuts). I scan my ambros twice at 600 (one in the mat/preserver and sometimes one without), and my dags twice if I need to clean and re-seal them;otherwise, once. Then I create an 8x10 high-quality print for the nicer ones.

Here's what one of the guys at RetouchPro says: "The amount of time and the spectral character of the type of lighting used in scanning devices does no harm..at least thats what the Experts from Kodak, Image Premanance Institute and others say." (I'm a member there and have found all sorts of great advice)

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

I would do it just for peace of mind - Dags and Ambros were very intimidating to me at first because of their fragile nature, the fact that they are each one-off and they are old and pieces of history. Now I feel much more safe dealing with them, but not like one of my friends who has them hanging all over his walls (I think he is nuts). I scan my ambros twice at 600 (one in the mat/preserver and sometimes one without), and my dags twice if I need to clean and re-seal them;otherwise, once. Then I create an 8x10 high-quality print for the nicer ones.

Here's what one of the guys at RetouchPro says: "The amount of time and the spectral character of the type of lighting used in scanning devices does no harm..at least thats what the Experts from Kodak, Image Premanance Institute and others say." (I'm a member there and have found all sorts of great advice)

Yeah, what little I read yesterday said I should be fine scanning one time. But I really liked your story, as I think ours needs to come out of the frame and be cleaned as well. As you can see, there's a lot of dust going on. But, that's the thing I'm most not wanting to do, and feel a professional would help. Have to research more in Southern California, see who can handle this kind of job. Thank you again.

 

[MajMarionPatterson]

By the way, THIS is the kind of quality I want....

 

[Forrest]

Yeah, what little I read yesterday said I should be fine scanning one time. But I really liked your story, as I think ours needs to come out of the frame and be cleaned as well. As you can see, there's a lot of dust going on. But, that's the thing I'm most not wanting to do, and feel a professional would help. Have to research more in Southern California, see who can handle this kind of job. Thank you again.

View attachment 113591

Warning: I never touch the surface of an ambrotype. I used to gently blow dust off of them with an artist air compressor, but even that is dangerous, as emulsion flakes can blow off. That happened once, and I have not done it since.

All I ever do with ambrotypes, and only if visual appeal can be increased significantly, is clean the protective glass, and if the image (emulsion) is on the reverse side of the photographic plate I wipe off the non-image side.

 

[Forrest]

This site has some good advice on cleaning: http://www.phototree.com/cleaning.htm

I would just add that it is very important to not introduce moisture into a cased photo (or dust into a cased dag). If you clean the protective glass, dry it with a lint-free cotton cloth and then let it air-dry for a while just to make sure. Or you can get a can of compressed air at most hobby stores.