Leigh Cole
Private
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2016
- Location
- Monroe, MI
Because I was asked, I am going to write a bit on my use of pigments. If you look on the non-ACW figures, you will see my use of them on armor models. I am just getting started on some Perry 28mm figures and artillery so as soon as those are in progress, I will post how pigments can apply anywhere.
For figures, I am a huge fan of the Tamiya semi damp pigments. These come in a case with three colours and a cosmetics brush. These are excellent for weathering terrain on to artillery, or big models but they can also go over figures just like dry brushing. Dry brushing remains essential. Not makes those bolt and hard ridges look better...Tamiya pigments can do the same job here. However, I only recommend that for static displays, not your gaming pieces. But these Tamiya pigments are very easy to use and I highly recommend them to start with. If you over do it, they can be brushed off. At $11 on average per cosmetics kit of three, they are a bit pricey, but I do like the KISS factor...keep it grunt proof...nice, simple, and easy.
The other pigments I use come in a small bottle. Abteilung makes wonderful pigments. So does MIG and AK. Before I start with applying some carrier, usually white spirits or mineral spirits to figure or model, APPLY A MATTE FINISH!. The varnish I prefer is AK Ultra flat. It is just the best for leaving a wonderful satin like finish and it protects the model from the white spirits applied. You don't want to remove your hard work in painting, right?
Now, with the carrier applied, I dip a DRY brush into the pigment. Just dabble it over the area you want weathered. Do not worry about over doing it. You can brush it off later, but it is my opinion after 20 plus years in the field, you cannot over weather really! Everything gets filthy fast. The key is, say you are adding pigments to trousers and boots, or to an artillery piece, make them match the base terrain! Now allow to dry. A blow drying speeds things up.
WARNING!!! This is the freak out period!!! You will think you just ruined your model. Relax. Here is where the dry brush comes in. Just start brushing. It will come off in a cloud of pigments. The more you brush the more that comes off. For figures, you just want that weathering as it should be. Heavier on the knees and rear end. The boots, too. Lighter dusting is fine any where.
IN CONCLUSION: I orientated this tutorial more for figures as that is what we do mostly, right? Not a lot of tanks in the Civil war. But these principals work anywhere.
Tamiya pigments are semi damp. NO CARRIER NEEDED. VERY SIMPLE TO USE AND THESE ARE MY GO TO PIGMENTS FOR FIGURES. I highly recommend these for beginners, too. In fact, they are always a wonder option. The dry pigments must have a carrier. I think these a better for large things like tanks. I do see a use in artillery and figures, but I think the TAMIYA option is still going to be better.
I hoped this helped, and I will be glad to answer any questions. They take a bit of getting used to, but the learning curve is quick and I think they are a wonderful addition.
For figures, I am a huge fan of the Tamiya semi damp pigments. These come in a case with three colours and a cosmetics brush. These are excellent for weathering terrain on to artillery, or big models but they can also go over figures just like dry brushing. Dry brushing remains essential. Not makes those bolt and hard ridges look better...Tamiya pigments can do the same job here. However, I only recommend that for static displays, not your gaming pieces. But these Tamiya pigments are very easy to use and I highly recommend them to start with. If you over do it, they can be brushed off. At $11 on average per cosmetics kit of three, they are a bit pricey, but I do like the KISS factor...keep it grunt proof...nice, simple, and easy.
The other pigments I use come in a small bottle. Abteilung makes wonderful pigments. So does MIG and AK. Before I start with applying some carrier, usually white spirits or mineral spirits to figure or model, APPLY A MATTE FINISH!. The varnish I prefer is AK Ultra flat. It is just the best for leaving a wonderful satin like finish and it protects the model from the white spirits applied. You don't want to remove your hard work in painting, right?
Now, with the carrier applied, I dip a DRY brush into the pigment. Just dabble it over the area you want weathered. Do not worry about over doing it. You can brush it off later, but it is my opinion after 20 plus years in the field, you cannot over weather really! Everything gets filthy fast. The key is, say you are adding pigments to trousers and boots, or to an artillery piece, make them match the base terrain! Now allow to dry. A blow drying speeds things up.
WARNING!!! This is the freak out period!!! You will think you just ruined your model. Relax. Here is where the dry brush comes in. Just start brushing. It will come off in a cloud of pigments. The more you brush the more that comes off. For figures, you just want that weathering as it should be. Heavier on the knees and rear end. The boots, too. Lighter dusting is fine any where.
IN CONCLUSION: I orientated this tutorial more for figures as that is what we do mostly, right? Not a lot of tanks in the Civil war. But these principals work anywhere.
Tamiya pigments are semi damp. NO CARRIER NEEDED. VERY SIMPLE TO USE AND THESE ARE MY GO TO PIGMENTS FOR FIGURES. I highly recommend these for beginners, too. In fact, they are always a wonder option. The dry pigments must have a carrier. I think these a better for large things like tanks. I do see a use in artillery and figures, but I think the TAMIYA option is still going to be better.
I hoped this helped, and I will be glad to answer any questions. They take a bit of getting used to, but the learning curve is quick and I think they are a wonderful addition.
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