Here's My Edged Weapon Pursuit

[SEHatfield]

Many of you have given the advice to folks to pick a specific area to pursue in collecting so here's my direction. My relatives were involved as Union Cavalry, Artillery, Infantry and Musicians on my dads side and a Confederate Infantryman on my moms. I thought a nice display would be a,

Union Cavalry Sword. 4th Ohio Cavalry
Union Artillery Sword. 2nd Ohio Heavy Artillery
Union Musicians Sword
Union Infantryman Bayonet (not having found a particular Infantryman sword.)
Confederate Bayonet (ditto)

These would be, for now, entry level swords to start with for financial reasons. I think they would make an interesting wall display.

Thoughts and suggestions welcomed.....

Steve

 

[Package4]

Seems reasonable, you now have to figure on:

• Condition
• Type of Cav sword Heavy or Light
• Maker
• Date
• Scabbard/no?
• Bayonet Type (socket/saber) could be the most expensive purchase

There are some very knowledgeable folks, here on the sword front. Knowledge and research are key, always buy from a reputable dealer who offers a lifetime guarantee of authenticity and return policy. When at auction or estate sale, be equipped with research material. There are many very good sword books out there.

Due to the increased authenticity of the reenactment community, there are many good quality and convincing recreations. Some take advantage of this and others do not know what they are selling. EBay can offer great bargains to those that are knowledgeable, but get help before bidding or buying.

Research, research, research and did I mention research?

 

[SEHatfield]

Ha, yes you did Package4, I'm learning a lot and folks here have already helped me tons.
S

 

[Richard E. Schenk]

For Union infantry, try a M1840 NCO sword. They are definitely a primarily infantry-used item, and are relatively cheap.

A somewhat pricier, but showier, option would be a M1850 foot officer's sword which was the sword carried by company grade Union infantry officers:

 

[SEHatfield]

Thanks Richard, the Musicians sword is also more affordable.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

Personally, I prefer the NCO sword over the Musician's sword. Simply because the NCO sword was carried on the battle lines and saw action in the early days of the war. The Musician's sword, not so much. Again, personal preference. One sword I much regret not purchasing, in retrospect, was a M-1840 NCO with a presentation inscription on the off side side of the hand guard. The inscription was to a Sgt. in a New York City Militia Regiment and dated 1848. It was offered to me by Val Forgett personally, the reason I didn't buy it was because it was expensive in 1978 dollars and the condition appeared to have been dug with the blade having been deeply rusted and badly bent.
J.

 

[UCVRelics]

It looks like you've narrowed it down a little. A lot of collectors want the war dated swords 61-64 and since they wern't stamped with the month a lot of the late 64 and 65 never saw battle or were issued. Those can be had for a lot less than the others with the 61 - 63 dates.

 

[SEHatfield]

Jobe I get you but one relative was a Union musician so he's in.

 

[Richard E. Schenk]

Was your Union artillery ancestor in heavy or light (mounted) atrillery? If heavy you might want a M1832 Foot Artillery sword:

If light, you would probably want a M1840 Light Artillery saber:

 

[SEHatfield]

He was heavy artillery.

 

[mofederal]

I wish you luck in your hunt. May you have great success. Thanks for your thread.

 

[SEHatfield]

I wish you luck in your hunt. May you have great success. Thanks for your thread.

Thanks mo, I'm finding myself maybe on a somewhat futile search. I have a pretty strict budget of awful close to $700 give or take, and I'm looking to find a saber/sword that had a relatively good chance at being government issued before or carried during the CW years, that fits my relatives job descriptions and is pretty complete. There are several items I've found out there that are in the $8/900 range or more that are just out of my reach. I've reached out to a couple of dealers mentioned as trustworthy here on the forums but they haven't gotten back with me yet. UVCrelics and everyone have been most helpful. I may be asking too much and have to settle for something less at my range. (at least when it comes to the cavalry/NCO types.)

S

 

[michaelmccormick88]

Anybody have some examples of bayonets they've acquired? Were they blued or just left in the white?

 

[Jobe Holiday]

If you start a new thread for "Bayonets, Blued or Bright?", I'll bet you'll have a better response than mixing it in with the sword topic. We do have bayonet people here and I think it would be a good discussion!
J.

 

[SEHatfield]

I have made a purchase from one of the reputable dealers mentioned on this site. I purchased an M1860 that should be here this Tuesday. I really appreciate everyone's advice and assistance. Pics when it arrives.

 

[SEHatfield]

BTW, When collecting edged weapons, do you go by the premise that the ones manufactured prior to a particular date have a better chance of having been actually issued to the military? Is, say, a sword manufactured before 1864/5 worth more simply because it is, or does it take some other provenance to make it worth more?
For me, the more chance a weapon has of being issued makes a difference. As I'm collecting swords pertaining to my relatives different disciplines, I want to at feel like I'm collecting an item that "could have" been issued.

 

[Richard E. Schenk]

Earlier dates definitely command a premium because there are a lot of people like yourself who want a sword which probably "saw the elephant". Others are not so concerned and just want a good representative of the type. Another thing to consider is, just because the sword wasn't used in the CW doesn't mean they weren't used. The M1860 cavalry sword remained in the Army inventory for enlisted troops through the Indian Wars, the Spanish American war, up until replaced by the M1913. I understand some may have still been out there with units chasing Poncho Villa. They saw a lot of service. For myself, I prefer a sword in used but excellent condition with a date of 1863 or before. However if the choice is between a ratty older date and a great newer date, I'd probably put condition first.