Ethnic Recipes

Joined
May 30, 2011
Location
mid-Atlantic
With new Americans adding Old World recipes to the American Melting Pot in the early to mid 19th century... I thought a thread of some favorite period ethnic recipes might be fun.

Here's The Standards:
I post one recipe per posting giving a brief history of the dish as seen both within the ethnic group and within American cuisine as a whole.
I document the recipe to a period cookbook, with links for others to independently see the recipe in context.
If I have made this dish up, I tell you the adjustments made to modern cooking methods and the context in which this dish was used.

Mods- I choose to put this in the "generalized" category because the thread will (hopefully) morph with additions from others and I wanted to be inclusive. :-)
 
First up... Mamaliga or Puliszka
Here's the Wiki

A type of porridge popular in Eastern Europe. Romans had a grain meal dish called "polenta" that was originally made with millet. When the Romans held military actions in Eastern Europe, they introduced the dish to the local populace. It was cheap, easy to make, easy to get creative with, and they wanted to kiss up to the invaders be seen as sophisticated... so the dish caught on. When maize was introduced to Europe in the 16th century, maize flour was seen as an easy replacement for millet in this popular dish. During the American Civil War, a need to substitute corn flour for wheat flour resulted in many creative uses for corn meal... including several for dishes very similar to mamaliga.

Often mamaliga is made thick enough to be sliced and eaten like a bread. It is sometimes served with sides such as cheese, sour cream, bacon or chunked into a bowl and covered with milk like we would do cornbread.

I used this dish in a portrayal of an immigrant woman from Wallachia who was traveling a long distance. Corn meal was easy to pack in a cloth sack, a tin boiler was logical enough to carry along and would serve many purposes, and I could be assured of a campfire.

From: Domestic Cookery, Useful Receipts, and Hints to Young Housekeepers, by Elizabeth Ellicot Lea, 1869
Cornmeal Porridge:
Put on to boil in a saucepan a quart of milk, mix a small tea-cup of corn meal with half a pint of cold water, (let it settle, and pour off what swims on the top,) then stir it in well to keep it from being lumpy; let it boil only a few minutes; add salt to the taste. This makes a good breakfast for children, and is a light diet for an invalid. It can be seasoned with sugar.

Followed by Mush, Mush Cakes, Fried Mush:

Mush will keep for several days in cool weather; the best way of making it is to have a pot of boiling water, and stir in corn meal, mixed with water, and salt enough to season the whole; let it boil, and if it is not thick enough you can add more meal; keep stirring all the time to prevent it from being lumpy. It should boil an hour.To make the cakes, take a quart of cold mush, mix in it half a pint of wheat flour, and a little butter or lard, make it out in little cakes with your hands; flour them and bake them on a griddle or in a dripping-pan. Fried mush is a good plain dessert, eaten with sugar and cream. Cut the cold mush in slices, half an inch thick, or make them into small cakes, dip them in flour, and fry them in hot lard.
 
This is a great idea and appreciate your additions. Hope others will add some.

My Mother's family are all from Italy. This be a good thread to add some of their recipes. These are all handed down from one generation to another, so won't be from any cookbooks. Hope this will meet your standards. Otherwise, I could just add my Mom's family recipes in other threads. Thanks.
 
I think you would be surprised at the number of "Italian" dishes that show up in mid-19th century American cookbooks. Many Americans included The Italian States when they toured Europe, then included "exotic" recipes into their dining menus when they returned home. Middle class would taste the new recipes... and it went from there. Pasta and vermicelli both show up in American cookbooks... in baked casseroles, soup fillers, and filled desserts... used much the way many Italians used pasta and vermicelli themselves. Italian cheeses, wines, and liquors were imported. No nicely dressed table was complete without a caster of fine Italian Olive Oil to dress the salads.

It wasn't until the working-class Italians began immigrating in large numbers that Italian foods went from "sophisticated exotic" to "immigrant strange and thus suspicious"... and by that time many dishes had lost their Italian roots and become a mainstay of American Cuisine.

...one of the reasons I chose "unclassified" for this thread is because many ethnic recipes have been handed down since before Mrs. Farmer insisted on standardizing and consistent notating of recipes...and immigrants were busy getting established, not writing cookbooks ...add them here, and tell us how many generations you can trace the oral tradition back. :-) ...and if I can find a recipe from a cookbook that seems similar in most respects, I'll let you know.
 
Curry from India, Bengal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka

Traditionally a spiced sauce in which meats are cooked, Indian Curries began to be popular as Great Britain expanded her colonial interests. The first curry recipe to be found in British cookbooks comes from the 1747 work, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse. Americans first learned of curries in subsequent printings and editions. Curry sauce in Britain began with only pepper and ginger. As Indians expanded their recipe collections with other spices, British followed suit. The first Curry House in "the west" opened in 1810 in London.

Legend says an experiment with curry sauce is responsible for Worcestershire Sauce.

From: The Housekeeper's Assistant by Ann Allen, 1845
CURRY.

2 chickens,

1 teaspoon of Cayenne,

1 do. cardamoms,

2 shallots,

Butter the size of a walnut,

4 onions,

1 pint of green peas,

1 teaspoon of turmeric.

Take the skin off of the chickens, carve, wash and dry them, put them into a stew-pan with a teacupful of water, salt and onions, (with egg plant) or green peas, stew till tender; then add the butter and spices, rub up the turmeric, cardamoms, shallots, and a little mace in a marble mortar, roll these ingredients up with some flour, and dissolve them in the stew. If the curry is wanted to be brown, it must be fried a little before the curry-balls are added to the gravy.

ANOTHER.

2 fat young fowls,

4 large onions,

1 table spoon of curry-powder,

1/2 lb. of butter.

Carve the fowls as if for the table, dust them with flour, fry them in butter till they are well browned, lay them in a stew-pan with the onions cut in slips, cover with boiling water; cover the pan and set on to coals. In half an hour take out a cup of the gravy, mix it well with a table spoon of curry-powder, and throw it again into the stew-pan, stir it well round, taste and see if your gravy is warm, if not add Cayenne. Bubble the whole until the fowls are tender, serve in a deep dish, with boiled rice.

MALAY'S CURRY.
Proceed as above, fry the onions, and a couple of egg-plants in slices, put the whole in your stew-pan with the milk of two cocoa nuts, grate the flesh, put it in a linen bag, and squeeze out the juice, which put in the sauce-pan likewise; add the curry, and finish as above.

CURRY POWDER.

3 oz. of coriander seed,

5 oz. of turmeric,

1 oz. of black pepper,

1 oz. of mustard-seed,

1 oz. of ginger,

1/2 oz. Cayenne pepper,

1/2 oz. of lesser cardamom,

1/4 oz. of cinnamon,

1/4 oz. of cumin seed.

Dry all well by the fire, then reduce them separately to a powder, pass them through a fine sieve, and mix them well. It should be bottled, and well corked, and kept in a dry place, and labelled. Order saves much time.

RICE BOILED TO EAT WITH CURRY, OR ROAST MEATS.
Pick and wash, and put it into a stew-pan with plenty of cold water, with a little salt, let it boil quick and well, then drain in a sieve, and set it before the fire. Serve without sauce of any kind.

From:Miss Beecher's Domestic Receipt Book by Catherine Esther Beecher, 1850
Curried Dishes.
Chickens and veal are most suitable for curries. Boil the meat till tender, and separate the joints. Put a little butter in a stew-pan with the chickens, pour on a part of the liquor in which the meat was boiled, enough nearly to cover it, and let it stew twenty minutes more.

Prepare the curry thus: for four pounds of meat, take a tablespoonful of curry powder, a tea-cup of boiled rice, a tablespoonful of flour, and another of melted butter, a tea-cup of the liquor, and half a teaspoonful of salt, mix them, and pour them over the meat and let it stew ten minutes more.

Rice should be boiled for an accompaniment.

To Prepare Curry Powder.
One ounce of ginger, one ounce of mustard, one of pepper, three of coriander seed, three of tumeric, half an ounce of cardamums, quarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and quarter of an ounce of cummin seed. Pound them fine, sift them, and cork them tight in a bottle.
 
Posting on behalf of Diane, a Pennsylvania Dutch recipe for Scrapple
Old Pennsylvania Dutch Scrapple​
1/2 pound chopped raw pork​
1-1/4 teaspoon salt​
1/8 teaspoon pepper​
1 cup corn meal​
1 medium onion, chopped​
1- 1/4 quarts water​
Brown onion slowly in a little fat. Add meat, seasoning and water. Cook at simmering point 20 minutes.​
Add corn meal and cook over medium heat for one hour. Turn into loaf pan and cool.​
Cut in slices and fry in fat until brown. Serve with gravy or tomato sauce. (Maple syrup isn't authentic, but it's good!)​
Now posting as myself.​
From: Domestic Cookery, Useful Receipts, and Hints to Young Housekeepers by Elizabeth Ellicot Lea, 1845​
Scrapple.
Take eight pounds of scraps of pork, that will not do for sausage; boil it in four gallons of water; when tender, chop it fine, strain the liquor and pour it back into the pot; put in the meat; season it with sage, summer savory, salt and pepper to taste; stir in a quart of corn meal; after simmering a few minutes, thicken it with buckwheat flour very thick; it requires very little cooking after it is thickened, but must be stirred constantly.​
 
A Selection of Historic Recipes Claiming to Be "Italian" (not all fall before 1865)

Life is Uncertain, Enjoy Dessert First :tongue:

From: The Frugal Housewife: Or, Complete Woman Cook by Suzannah Carter, 1803
An Italian Pudding.
Lay puff-paste at the bottom and round the edges of the dish. Upon which pour a mixture of a pint of cream; French rolls enough to thicken it, ten eggs beaten very fine, a nutmeg grated, twelve pippins sliced, some orange peel and sugar, and half a pint of red wine. Half an hour will bake it.

The Lady's Receipt Book by Eliza Leslie, 1847
AN ITALIAN CHARLOTTE.--Take a pint of rich cream; set it on ice, and beat and stir it till it becomes a solid froth. Then boil a vanilla bean in half a pint of rich milk till it is highly flavoured. Strain the milk, and when cold mix with it six ounces of loaf-sugar and the beaten yolks of four eggs, and set it over the fire, or rather on a bed of hot coals. Boil it ten minutes, stirring it frequently. When it comes to a boil, add half a pint of clear firm jelly-stock that has been made of calves' feet, or else an ounce of isinglass that has been melted in barely as much boiling water as will cover it. Stir the mixture well, and let it remain five minutes over the fire. Then take it off, and place it on ice, stirring it till it begins to thicken. When it is about the consistence of very thick gruel, add the whipped cream. Have ready an almond sponge cake, baked in the form of a circular loaf. With a sharp knife cut out the inside of this cake carefully and smoothly; leaving the sides and bottom together, so as to form a mould not quite an inch thick. Fill this up to the top with the Charlotte mixture; and placing a large plate beneath it, set it on ice to congeal. In the mean time, prepare a meringue or icing of beaten white of egg, thickened with powdered loaf-sugar, and flavoured with extract of orange-flowers. Cover the top and sides of the Charlotte with this icing; spread on evenly, and smoothed with a knife dipped in cold water. Ornament it with coloured sugar-jelly rings, handsomely arranged, or any other nice bonbons.


Where's the Beef? Right Here!

From: The Housekeeper's Assistant by Ann Allen, 1845
ITALIAN BEEF STEAKS.
2 lbs. of beef,1 onion,Pepper and salt.

Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been hung, or from any tender part. Beat it, and season with pepper and onion. Lay it in an iron stew-pan, that has a cover to fit close, set it by the fire, without water. Take care it does not burn, but it must have a strong heat. In two or three hours it will be quite tender, then serve with its own gravy.


Macaroni Dishes of All Kinds:

Miss Beecher's Domestic Receipt Book by Catherine Esther Beecher, 1846

Macaroni Soup (Mrs. F.'s Receipt).
Take six pounds of beef, and put it into four quarts of water, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery. Boil it down three or four hours slowly, till there is about two quarts of water, and let it cool. Next day take off the grease, without shaking the sediment, and pour it off into the kettle, half an hour before dinner (leaving the sediment out), and add salt to suit the taste, a pint of macaroni, broken into inch pieces, and a tablespoonful and a half of tomato catsup.

Macaroni Pudding, to eat with Meat.
Simmer a quarter of a pound of macaroni in plenty of water, until it is tender. Strain off the water, and add a pint of milk or cream, an ounce of grated cheese, and a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well together, and strew over the top two ounces of grated cheese and crumbs of bread. Brown it well, in baking, on the top. It will bake in a quick oven in half an hour. It is appropriate to be eaten with boiled ham, or forms a course by itself, after meat.

Plain Macaroni or Vermacelli Puddings.
Put two ounces of macaroni, or vermacelli, into a pint of milk, and simmer until tender. Flavor it by putting in two or three sticks of cinnamon while boiling, or some other spice when done. Then beat up three eggs, mix in an ounce of sugar, half a pint of milk, and a glass of wine. Add these to the macaroni or vermacelli, and bake in a slow oven.

From: Buckeye Cookery by Estelle Woods Wilcox, 1877
ITALIAN MACARONI.
Place two pounds of beef, well larded with strips of salt pork, and one or two chopped onions, in a covered kettle on the back of the stove, until it throws out its juice and is a rich brown; add a quart of tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt, and allow this mixture to simmer for two or three hours. Take the quantity of macaroni desired and boil in water for twenty minutes, after which put one layer of the boiled macaroni in the bottom of a pudding dish, cover with some of the above mixture, then a layer of grated cheese, and so on in layers till the dish is filled, having a layer of cheese on the top; place in the oven an hour, or until it is a rich brown. Commence early in the morning to prepare this dish.

From: Miss Parloa's New Cook Book by Miss Parloa, 1880

Macaroni with Cream Sauce.
Boil the macaroni as directed for the plain boiled dish. Drain, and serve with half a pint of cream sauce.

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce.
Boil and drain as directed for plain boiled macaroni. Pour over it one pint of tomato sauce.

Macaroni with Cheese.
Prepare the macaroni with the cream sauce. Turn into a buttered escalop dish. Have half a cupful of grated cheese and half a cupful of bread crumbs mixed. Sprinkle over the macaroni, and place in the oven and brown. It will take about twenty minutes.

Macaroni à l' Italienne.
Twelve sticks of macaroni (a quarter of a pound), half a pint of milk, two table-spoonfuls of cream, two of butter, one of flour, some salt, white pepper and cayenne, and a quarter of a pound of cheese. Break and wash the macaroni, and boil it rapidly for twenty minutes in two quarts of water. Put the milk on in the double boiler. Mix the butter and flour together, and stir into the boiling milk. Add the seasoning, cream and cheese. Drain, and dish the macaroni. Pour the sauce over it, and serve immediately. One table-spoonful of mustard can be stirred into the sauce if you like. If the sauce and macaroni are allowed to stand long after they are put together the dish will be spoiled. If they cannot be served immediately, keep both hot in separate dishes.

From: White House Cookbook by F.L. Gillette, 1887

MACCARONI A LA ITALIENNE
Divide a quarter of a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces. Simmer fifteen minutes in plenty of boiling water, salted. Drain. Put the maccaroni into a sauce-pan and turn over it a strong soup stock, enough to prevent burning. Strew over it an ounce of grated cheese; when the cheese is melted, dish. Put alternate layers of maccaroni and cheese; then turn over the soup stock and bake half an hour.

MACCARONI AND TOMATO SAUCE.
Divide half a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces, put it into boiling salted water enough to cover it; boil from fifteen to twenty minutes; then drain; arrange it neatly on a hot dish, and pour tomato sauce over it, and serve immediately while hot. See "Sauces" for tomato sauce.

...and just in case you wanted to take your dinner party over the top...

another from: White House Cookbook by F.L. Gillette, 1887

ITALIAN STYLE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES.
Ten truffles, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to taste, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely minced garlic, two blades of pounded mace, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into thin slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil or butter, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic and mace, in the above proportion. Bake them for nearly an hour, and just before serving, add the lemon juice and send them to table very hot.

And even a cookbook of Italian favorites dating to 1919: The Italian CookBook by Maria Gentile
 
There was such a huge surge of interest in all things Italian prior to the Civil War. Where did all the English poets go for vacation? Tuscany. Where did folks go on their European tour? Rome and Venice, Florence......

It's no wonder we can find these. Thanks for posting all this, Elaine. Well done!
 

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