Dry Stock

[originalrebelyell]

What are some recommendations for a original musket stock it is in good stable condition just looks dry. I would like to hear some your thoughts on what I might use on it.

 

[johan_steele]

I'm a fan of Kramer's Best. Works well and a little will go a long way.

http://www.kramerize.com/

 

[ewmail15]

Bore butter on everything I was told, and brings out wood grain beautifully.

 

[Tailor Pete]

For badly dried wood, I've applied numerous coats of boiled linseed oil. Works well, but very time consuming. I've also heard of using heated tongue oil. Never tried it, but have seen the results... quite effective.

 

[Jobe Holiday]

I'm with Johan Steele on Kramer's Best, even Tim Prince uses it!
J.

 

[originalrebelyell]

I had thought about using Kramers

 

[Package4]

The originals were soaked in linseed oil overnight, then set aside in a drying room, that said repeated wiping with linseed oil is tedious and extremely messy, but that is the way I have gone.

 

[UCVRelics]

I use the boiled linseed oil on all my cannon carriages that I make and on a few muskets which I don't really like to do as I like to leave it as is unless absolutely necessary. The linseed is messy but I like the look it gives when dry.

 

[originalrebelyell]

I use linseed oil on some of my newer military rifles but haven't tried it on the older ones.

 

[Lanyard Puller]

I've got to go along with the guys who recommend Kramers Best.... the yellow cloudy stuff, NOT the clear deep cleaning Blemish Clarifier. It's the only thing I'd ever put on my Confederate guns, even my scoped Whitworth, without any worry concerning the results.

 

[yulzari]

Linseed oil has centuries of history for the task as a safe and effective option. Dry stocks just drink it up. For shrinkage around the butt plate remove the butt plate and sit the butt in a dish of oil. If the butt plate won't come off easily then leave it on.

 

[frankconrad]

As a small arms repairman in the early 60s we sometimes had to replace stocks on M1s. We usually gave them a crack on the corner of the bench, those that someone had put commercial stock finish on broke easily, those who some way or another had bathed in gun oil broke like a banana.
Those that had repeated coatings of linseed oil were much harder to break.

 

[Patrick H]

I am not familiar with Kramer's Best, but I see it has several fans whom I respect. I must check it out.

I have used linseed oil on exceptionally dried wood. It doesn't have to be messy, because you only apply it drops at a time. You rub those in until they are very warm from the friction of your hand rubbing. You will be amazed at how far they spread. You wait a day or more and apply some more drops. My opinion is if you are slathering it on, you're going about it all wrong. Another VERY, VERY important thing to keep in mind: You shouldn't have to wipe off excess, but if you do, spread your rags out flat on a concrete floor (such as your garage or driveway) until you can bag them very tightly and throw them in the trash. If you wad them up and leave them in a pile or an open trash can, they have a terrible propensity to trap heat and cause spontaneous combustion. They can and will burn down your house! I am not being overly dramatic when I tell you that. It's the truth.

I have also used Renaissance Wax on wood that is not so dry, and on metal, too. I first learned about it right here on these threads.

 

[2/241]

Dry stock was an Italiam Vermouth I reallyy did like

 

[Patrick H]

Dry stock was an Italiam Vermouth I reallyy did like

That's a hoot!