DIY forage cap

[TheRealMrHoward]

It seems like most campaigner quality forage cap and kepi makers are backed up for weeks or months even.

I was thinking about trying to make my own using one of the commercially available patterns.

Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks

Dave

 

[captaindrew]

I've never tried to make any of my own stuff so can't give any advice directly. I know a few people who have and said they were much trickier than you'd think. If you do make one do show us how it came out. If you find yourself in Gettysburg stop by Dirty Billy's shop. He may have a few in stock in his store.

 

[The Walking Dead]

You might find a campaigner quality cap for sale on the second hand market.

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

I've never tried to make any of my own stuff so can't give any advice directly. I know a few people who have and said they were much trickier than you'd think. If you do make one do show us how it came out. If you find yourself in Gettysburg stop by Dirty Billy's shop. He may have a few in stock in his store.

I have one dirty Billy hat, and I find it's like getting a tattoo! Already planning on my second one!

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

You might find a campaigner quality cap for sale on the second hand market.

I have come across a few, but haven't had any luck with the fit, even though it says it's my size.

 

[The Walking Dead]

I have come across a few, but haven't had any luck with the fit, even though it says it's my size.

Keep in mind soldiers of all wars had a problem with size. Just look at period Images. What size are you looking for? Union or Confederate?

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

Keep in mind soldiers of all wars had a problem with size. Just look at period Images. What size are you looking for? Union or Confederate?

7 1/4 both union n confederate.

Got a nice hand sewn Confederate kepi used, but it sits on my head like a fried egg!

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

I couldn't resist the siren song of another Dirty Billy hat! Especially since they can get it to me next week!

 

[mofederal]

I have made shell jackets, sack coat, frock coat, trousers dark blue and sky blue, but no hats of any kind.

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

I have made shell jackets, sack coat, frock coat, trousers dark blue and sky blue, but no hats of any kind.

Did you use patterns, kits, or blanks?

 

[grognard]

Commercially available patterns are usually set up for people using modern home sewing techniques. These are different from the techniques used at the time.

Commercially available patterns are also often mis-sized and mis-shapen. Most of the cheaper ones were probably developed from modern clothing patterns, instead of period pattern drafting systems or examination and measurement of original items.

I don't know of even a commercially available pattern for a kepi or forage cap. But a pattern is only part of the story - for an accurate copy you need to be able to find the right quality materials, not only for the cloth but the lining, leather, and interfacing.

Most good quality caps are worth the wait.

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

True! Glad I went with Dirty Billy.

 

[grognard]

If you want to try making some of your own clothing (which I certainly encourage), work your way from the simple to the difficult.

Drawers can be easily made, and only you will know how accurate (or presentable) the results are.

Shirts aren't difficult, and with a little experimentation you can make a pattern that has all the proper features and actually fits you. Your shirts will last a lot longer if you use good quality cotton homespun instead of the cheap prints found on sutler row.

From there, you can eventually progress to vests, trousers, jackets, and coats. But unless you are an experienced leatherworker, shoes and caps should be left to professionals or skilled artisans.

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

Thanks for the advice!

I am planning on sewing the wambaugh & white Fed_Issue_Shirt_Kit. My mom and sister will help me. They are amateur seamstresses so I should be in good hands. We'll go from there.

I was going to build one of their canteen kits, but don't know where to find a correct canteen! There seems to be lots of research to be done in that regard.

 

[Seduzal]

You can also try looking for help here:
https://civilwartalk.com/forums/sutlers-soldiers-classified-ads.19/

 

[Trooper "D"]

It seems like most campaigner quality forage cap and kepi makers are backed up for weeks or months even.

I was thinking about trying to make my own using one of the commercially available patterns.

Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks

Dave

I've made plenty of forage caps and "kepis" myself. I measured off of one I have and made a working facsimile of a cap. Once you've done a couple it is easy to do little things to make your cap look cool. Like lengthening the topbso it folds over forward nicely. Unused an old Grey wool blanket and then I used felt rectangles from the craft store and then rolls of felt and wool material.
Any of those patterns available will work fine. Adding a liner is more than my skills can handle but for a quick something to wear while waiting availability of a better one its a fun project and people thought my Grey blanket one was original.
Hope that encourages you.
Cheers!

 

[TheRealMrHoward]

I've made plenty of forage caps and "kepis" myself. I measured off of one I have and made a working facsimile of a cap. Once you've done a couple it is easy to do little things to make your cap look cool. Like lengthening the topbso it folds over forward nicely. Unused an old Grey wool blanket and then I used felt rectangles from the craft store and then rolls of felt and wool material.
Any of those patterns available will work fine. Adding a liner is more than my skills can handle but for a quick something to wear while waiting availability of a better one its a fun project and people thought my Grey blanket one was original.
Hope that encourages you.
Cheers!

It does! Thank you.

I just finished a CS haversack (Wambaugh & White). I'm pretty proud of it, especially as it was my first time sewing. Currently working on the federal issue shirt by same company. I have my sights set on either side CS trousers or federal sack coat. Trousers are the next rung up complexity ladder so probably them.

Regards forage cap, I practically sleep with my dirty Billy one on, so not feeling the need to pursue that angle yet!

 

[grognard]

I've made plenty of forage caps and "kepis" myself. I measured off of one I have and made a working facsimile of a cap. Once you've done a couple it is easy to do little things to make your cap look cool. Like lengthening the topbso it folds over forward nicely. Unused an old Grey wool blanket and then I used felt rectangles from the craft store and then rolls of felt and wool material.
Any of those patterns available will work fine. Adding a liner is more than my skills can handle but for a quick something to wear while waiting availability of a better one its a fun project and people thought my Grey blanket one was original.

Did you measure an original cap, or a reproduction? How do you know the reproduction was accurate?

You lengthened the top so the cap would "look cool" - did any cap manufacturer actually do that? Were their ideas of what "looks cool" the same as yours?

Were real caps made from blanket wool and felt, or something thinner and lighter?

When I started in the hobby, I bought gear from the same suppliers as everyone else in my unit. My first forage cap was a fairly cheap one, with a thick leather bill and stiff sweatband. It was the right size, but I was never really comfortable wearing it.

A couple years later I was visiting a friend who belonged to a unit which put more emphasis on "authentic" gear. He let me try on one of his caps. As soon as it was on my head, I understood the difference. This wasn't a costume cap, made to be as cheap as possible. Instead, it felt like a quality piece of headgear. The materials were much lighter, finer quality, and more pliable. It didn't squeeze my head, it conformed to it. Of course that meant the materials were more expensive as well.

Hats, caps and footgear are some of the most difficult things to get right. If you want to try making your own gear, start with shirts and drawers, then move on to vests, trousers, jackets, and coats. Things like sleeping caps are OK but if you value accuracy, military headgear is best left to the professionals.

 

[Trooper "D"]

Did you measure an original cap, or a reproduction? How do you know the reproduction was accurate?

You lengthened the top so the cap would "look cool" - did any cap manufacturer actually do that? Were their ideas of what "looks cool" the same as yours?

Were real caps made from blanket wool and felt, or something thinner and lighter?

When I started in the hobby, I bought gear from the same suppliers as everyone else in my unit. My first forage cap was a fairly cheap one, with a thick leather bill and stiff sweatband. It was the right size, but I was never really comfortable wearing it.

A couple years later I was visiting a friend who belonged to a unit which put more emphasis on "authentic" gear. He let me try on one of his caps. As soon as it was on my head, I understood the difference. This wasn't a costume cap, made to be as cheap as possible. Instead, it felt like a quality piece of headgear. The materials were much lighter, finer quality, and more pliable. It didn't squeeze my head, it conformed to it. Of course that meant the materials were more expensive as well.

Hats, caps and footgear are some of the most difficult things to get right. If you want to try making your own gear, start with shirts and drawers, then move on to vests, trousers, jackets, and coats. Things like sleeping caps are OK but if you value accuracy, military headgear is best left to the professionals.

Take a walk through Pinterest.

 

[7thWisconsin]

There´s a kepi pattern (or more accurately diagram) in ¨The Confederate Sketchbook.¨ It´s not really a hard sew because all of the seams are in basically logical places. The chinstrap is non-functional, so you only need buttons and not a buckle and the brim is painted canvas over cardboard. I made one a long time ago (sadly, it has not survived for pictures ). Take your time and don´t panic and you´ll be OK. Make a trial run out of a cheap fabric first so you can get measurements and placings right the first time on your good fabric.