Cuff trim application method

[RetiredCanuck]

Coming from a guy who's already made more than a few uniforms with trim, it may seem odd to pose this question.

What is the correct way to add cuff trim for branch of service on confederate shell jackets and frock coats?

Does the coloured fabric replace the last few inches of the sleeve fabric? (This is the way I usually did it when making jackets to order.)

Or is the cuff trim supposed to be applied overtop like an applique, thereby making the cuff material 2 layers thick?

 

[RedRover]

US Army jackets were trimmed or specifically "laced" on the cuffs:

On the Army's Uniform coats (Frock coats for infantry, heavy artillery, etc.), the cuffs were a little more complex. there was a separate cuff piece put on the end of the sleeve and turned up, but finished with a cord or welt of branch color:

The cuff piece is a separate piece of the same cloth of the coat, attached to the end of the sleeve, and turned up over the cuff, and as noted, it was "edged" with a colored cord or welt, like shown on this one:

Confederate regulations called for cuff "facings" in branch color separate from the color of the coat, with the whole cuff of a separate color.

Here's the pattern diagram for Confederate regulation coats, showing the shape of the separate cuff facing, which I've annotated:

The facings were to be four inches long from the end of the cuff to the point, and 2.5 inches at the back seam.

Many CS jackets that are trimmed are frequently so with laced or cord applied rather than an applied facing or separate cuff piece;

There are some that had facings applied. This Confederate infantry sergeant's jacket has blue facings applied to the cuffs, but only on the outer half of the sleeve;

Many of the Confederate western theatre production jackets had a simple cuff facing. These were generally applied in the common manner, turned up over the end of the sleeve:

Museum Collections, U.S. National Park Service -

C.R. Childs sells a pattern for these as the "Columbus Depot Jacket" with the applied cuff facings to the sleeve:

Chas.R.Childs/County Cloth

crchilds.com

But there is at least one of these jackets made with the cuff facing an actual addition to the length of the sleeve:

Galla Rock Shirt & Pattern Co. Views of an Original Columbus Depot / Army of Tennessee Shell Jacket

Galla Rock Mercantile Views of an Original Columbus Depot Shell Jacket

www.gallarock.com

Silas Buck's late war western theater jacket cuff facings were also applied in the common manner, as seen by the holes worn in the colored facing;

Confederate Depot Uniforms of the Department of Alabama, Mississippi and East Louisiana, 1864-1865, Part I

As Les Jensen observed in his ground-breaking article, Survey of Government Made Confederate Jackets , there was a distinct style which he dubbed the “Department of Alabama” jacket. Jensen gave...

www.adolphusconfederateuniforms.com

 

[RetiredCanuck]

Thanks for the very thorough analysis!

I just want to clarify one thing. The first picture with the federal mounted jacket sleeve. AFAIK the lace is simply applied over the sleeve as an applique? i.e. the sleeve and cuff is one continuous section. That's how I made mine

Second picture of course with the cording welt requires a separate cuff, as it's the only practical way to sew it into the seam. As in an enlisted frock coat or roundabout.

Could you please clarify what "in the common manner" means? Is that a plain sleeve with the branch trim simply sewn overtop?

Thanks again for the post. I'm so pleased to have joined this forum, which shows how much we all can learn from each other.

 

[RedRover]

Thanks for the very thorough analysis!

I just want to clarify one thing. The first picture with the federal mounted jacket sleeve. AFAIK the lace is simply applied over the sleeve as an applique? i.e. the sleeve and cuff is one continuous section. That's how I made mine

Correct. Evidently many Union cavalry/artillerymen preferred to yank off the lace, which was no big deal as it was just whipped on.

Second picture of course with the cording welt requires a separate cuff, as it's the only practical way to sew it into the seam. As in an enlisted frock coat or roundabout.

Oh yes, sorry. Yes that's a US Army uniform coat, frock coat. As made for infantry, heavy artillery, or in the case of the image, a sharpshooter. I have edited the post to clarify.

Could you please clarify what "in the common manner" means? Is that a plain sleeve with the branch trim simply sewn overtop?

just meant the common manner for any separate coat cuff. Just made in a branch color. For example, common antebellum men's coat sleeve cuffs. applied to the end of the sleeve, and turned up over the end and sewn down to form the cuff. Though the common men's cuffs frequently had a functional vent opening in the rear, with or without buttons, rather than just a few buttons for show, like on military garments.

Thanks again for the post. I'm so pleased to have joined this forum, which shows how much we all can learn from each other.

Quite welcome. Thanks for the interesting comments, etc.

 

[Package4]

Thanks for the very thorough analysis!

I just want to clarify one thing. The first picture with the federal mounted jacket sleeve. AFAIK the lace is simply applied over the sleeve as an applique? i.e. the sleeve and cuff is one continuous section. That's how I made mine

Second picture of course with the cording welt requires a separate cuff, as it's the only practical way to sew it into the seam. As in an enlisted frock coat or roundabout.

Could you please clarify what "in the common manner" means? Is that a plain sleeve with the branch trim simply sewn overtop?

Thanks again for the post. I'm so pleased to have joined this forum, which shows how much we all can learn from each other.

I have mine put away in the vault, but the cuff is a separate piece sewn over the original cuff, as is the collar trim. The pictures that I have on my phone are not worth sending.