Cap ignition problems

[JMArguien]

Greetings,
I have recently returned to civil war reenacting in the Northwest and I am having significant problems igniting caps with both my armisport 1861 Springfield and my euroarms 1853 Enfield.
The CCI reenactor caps were problematic with igniting my powder (I am using standard FFF) so I switched to schutzen caps which seem to require multiple hammer strikes to ignite. Although, the schutzen seem to successfully ignite the powder when they eventually go off.

My question: as both my rifles were purchased used and I am uncertain of their age; are there any parts that I should replace (main spring/tumbler) or maintenance (greasing of the lock components) that will help with increasing the geometry of the hammer strike or its overall force?

I have several over period reproduction rifles which function with the schutzen caps. A Miroku 1863 Springfield and a couple Zouave rifles, all of which have no problems with the caps.

Thank you for your assistance!

 

[captaindrew]

Were the CCI caps firing but not igniting the powder or not firing at all like some of the Schutzen? I've been seeing guys have trouble with the CCI caps not igniting the powder. I've never used them personally. I have personally had trouble with Schutzen caps before, I've had batches that were really inconsistent. I hoard RWS caps when I can find them, I've never had trouble with them. I'm not great with the mechanical end of it, I'm sure someone will be along shortly with some tips.

 

[1867crete]

Makes me miss the good ol' days and navy arms caps… the Tins were a Royal pain to open but man they were good caps! I just found a tin in my gun cabinet…!!

 

[thomas aagaard]

so I switched to schutzen caps which seem to require multiple hammer strikes to ignite. Although, the schutzen seem to successfully ignite the powder when they eventually go off.

How worn is your piston? (nipple)
I have the exact same issue with my original P53 enfield... It almost always need two "strikes" and that is clearly caused by a very worn piston.

(It is stuck so I can't replace it.)

 

[bankerpapaw]

Greetings,
I have recently returned to civil war reenacting in the Northwest and I am having significant problems igniting caps with both my armisport 1861 Springfield and my euroarms 1853 Enfield.
The CCI reenactor caps were problematic with igniting my powder (I am using standard FFF) so I switched to schutzen caps which seem to require multiple hammer strikes to ignite. Although, the schutzen seem to successfully ignite the powder when they eventually go off.

My question: as both my rifles were purchased used and I am uncertain of their age; are there any parts that I should replace (main spring/tumbler) or maintenance (greasing of the lock components) that will help with increasing the geometry of the hammer strike or its overall force?

I have several over period reproduction rifles which function with the schutzen caps. A Miroku 1863 Springfield and a couple Zouave rifles, all of which have no problems with the caps.

Thank you for your assistance!

Plugged nipple, perhaps?

 

[FedericoFCavada]

Like others have said, I'd check the cone... Is the channel clear? Is the upper surface worn in some way? Does the hammer strike true, or is it out of kilter? Is the cone straight, fully screwed in, and also true, or is it off to one or another side?

Perhaps replace the cone. Perhaps try RWS caps (if you can find any!) or even Rio, if available and see if there is a repeat of the same set of issues. I've used Rio, CCI, and RWS caps. I prefer RWS caps, but I think these days I mostly have Rios left...

 

[JMArguien]

Were the CCI caps firing but not igniting the powder or not firing at all like some of the Schutzen? I've been seeing guys have trouble with the CCI caps not igniting the powder. I've never used them personally. I have personally had trouble with Schutzen caps before, I've had batches that were really inconsistent. I hoard RWS caps when I can find them, I've never had trouble with them. I'm not great with the mechanical end of it, I'm sure someone will be along shortly with some tips.

CCI would go off but fail to ignite the powder.

 

[JMArguien]

How worn is your piston? (nipple)
I have the exact same issue with my original P53 enfield... It almost always need two "strikes" and that is clearly caused by a very worn piston.

(It is stuck so I can't replace it.)

I replaced the piston and continue to have the same issue.

 

[JMArguien]

Plugged nipple, perhaps?

Nope, it's always cleaned and has been replaced with the issue persisting.

 

[JMArguien]

Like others have said, I'd check the cone... Is the channel clear? Is the upper surface worn in some way? Does the hammer strike true, or is it out of kilter? Is the cone straight, fully screwed in, and also true, or is it off to one or another side?

Perhaps replace the cone. Perhaps try RWS caps (if you can find any!) or even Rio, if available and see if there is a repeat of the same set of issues. I've used Rio, CCI, and RWS caps. I prefer RWS caps, but I think these days I mostly have Rios left...

Thank you I will review those issues.

 

[JMArguien]

Todd Watts suggested easing the lock plate screws to ensure that the internal components are not rubbing. This improved performance, ignited 7 out of 10 on the first strike.
I have ordered a new tumbler and mainspring (might help) and will grease the lock (its bone dry) post install of the new parts. Any suggestions as to what grease or lubricant to use on the lock components?
Thank you all for the assistance!

 

[JMArguien]

How worn is your piston? (nipple)
I have the exact same issue with my original P53 enfield... It almost always need two "strikes" and that is clearly caused by a very worn piston.

(It is stuck so I can't replace it.)

Is it possible that the strike face on the hammer is a problem? It is worn from striking the cone and now has a slight impression.

 

[captaindrew]

CCI would go off but fail to ignite the powder.

Before going too crazy try different caps. I've seen a lot of guys have the same trouble with CCI caps. I'm not a big fan of Schutzen caps either. If you can find RWS get them. I've also put aftermarket cones on all my guns with a larger hole specifically for reenacting (if you ever try live firing put the factory cone back on, the larger hole creates back pressure live firing). Regimental Quartermaster has them, they perform really well.

 

[DixieRifles]

I've never heard a cap not firing.
I dont shoot CW replicas with winged caps but rifles with Drum using No 11 caps.
For 2 of my rifles, I had to adjust the fit of the Drum so it torques down firm on the barrel. A loose drum can rotate by hand and the hammer will not hit the nipple/cone squarely.
Other times, Ive seen a hammer that has a bend so it is offset.

 

[Booner]

CCI would go off but fail to ignite the powder.

So, you can hear the cap ignite, but that action doesn't ignite the powder-am I understanding this correctly?
Like others have said, replace the nipples. They do wear out over time.
How well do you clean the bore? Do you have/use a bore scraper? Over time you can have enough black powder fowling that builds up on the breach face and it will cause powder ignition problems. When you put a cleaning patch down the bore, you're pushing all that fowling up against the breach face. A bore scraper will get it out. I buy mine at Track of the Wolf.

 

[FedericoFCavada]

Bore scraper might be worth a look, no? I've seen old powder fouling form a cake that is hard to remove.
I'm wondering about a shim or a washer someplace in the geometry of the lock where the hammer goes, if it is misaligned somehow...?

 

[JMArguien]

So, you can hear the cap ignite, but that action doesn't ignite the powder-am I understanding this correctly?
Like others have said, replace the nipples. They do wear out over time.
How well do you clean the bore? Do you have/use a bore scraper? Over time you can have enough black powder fowling that builds up on the breach face and it will cause powder ignition problems. When you put a cleaning patch down the bore, you're pushing all that fowling up against the breach face. A bore scraper will get it out. I buy mine at Track of the Wolf.

I have a scraper which I use periodically, I will check that.

 

[JMArguien]

I have a scraper which I use periodically, I will check that.

Also, yes the CCI caps go off with an audible "pop" and are visibly discharged but fail to ignite the powder.

 

[JMArguien]

Bore scraper might be worth a look, no? I've seen old powder fouling form a cake that is hard to remove.
I'm wondering about a shim or a washer someplace in the geometry of the lock where the hammer goes, if it is misaligned somehow...?

A review of the hammer did find that it was off-center and not striking the cone/nipple/piston squarely. I'm thinking that a shim behind the lock plate (somewhere that it won't rub the moving parts) might be the solution.

 

[thomas aagaard]

Also, yes the CCI caps go off with an audible "pop" and are visibly discharged but fail to ignite the powder.

Have you tried firing (a cap) at some grass, piece of paper or lid candle so make sure that there is no obstruction?