Muzzleldrs Broken Plains Rifle

R. Porter

Sergeant Major
Joined
Oct 6, 2020
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In another thread I posted some images of a pattern 1853 Enfield rifle with a broken stock. I mentioned that it appeared to me to be intentionally broken by swinging the rifle sideways against something like a tree to break the stock and render the firearm useless. I wondered if this was done by a soldier during the Civil War who was retreating or being overrun so that the enemy would not be able to use the gun without replacing the stock. This was not the first firearm I had come across with a broken stock.

In reading about the development of the plains rifle, I learned how the Pennsylvania rifle had been developed in the forests of the East where much travel was done by foot. As settlement crossed the Mississippi River there were fewer forests and more prairies. Travel was often by horseback and if a rider dropped a rifle from horseback there was often damage to the stock. In response to this problem, rifles became shorter with a more robust half-stock. There was still damage when a rifle was dropped as attested by the number of rifles whose wrists have been wrapped with rawhide, copper wire, and sheet copper. In particular, rifles used by Native Americans lead a difficult life. In addition to being dropped from horseback, Indian rifles were often damaged before being turned-in to the Army by those settling on reservations.

A few years ago I came across a rifle with a broken stock that I took to be an Indian rifle. My reading indicated that Indian rifles were often decorated with tacks. These tacks had larger heads than the typical thumb-tack of today and the cross-section of the shaft was square rather than round as we are used to seeing. It was mentioned that years ago some gun collectors felt that the tack decoration detracted from rifles and so they would remove the tacks. The rifle I found had once had tacks but they had been removed.

Holes in the stock indicate tack decoration in the two images below. Some of the holes appear square in cross-section. There are some holes surrounded by a trace of a tack head that dug into the wood.

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Based on these traits, I decided that a likely story was that a Native American had owned the rifle and damaged it before turning it over to an Indian agent or the cavalry. If an Indian had lifted the rifle over his head like an axe and brought it down on the protruding part of the butt plate, it could have split the wrist in the way we see it today.

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While this interpretation seemed logical, it didn't explain all of the damage done to the butt plate. While the protruding part showed damage, the plate itself showed damage all around the shoulder curve, as if it had impacted with something hard enough to scar the brass. It took me a long time, but I finally had another idea that would explain the damage to the butt plate.

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Indians didn't always take the best of care with their firearms and might find themselves without a ramrod. A stick might be a suitable replacement but it would be another item to be juggled along with a rifle while on horseback. An alternative that worked well enough for short range targets was to load powder and then drop a slightly smaller ball than was typically used down the barrel. Rather than ram the ball down with a rod or stick, the shooter would slam the butt of the rifle into the ground forcing the ball down the barrel using Newton's first law of motion. That would account for the damage to the butt plate and, eventually, for the split of the stock at the wrist. In this scenario the wrist was not broken on purpose but an unintended consequence of a simplified loading procedure.
 
What caliber is it? Heavy recoil causes stress across the wrist because of the way the grain runs. A lot of old rifles have broken there, probably for a lot of different reasons.
The wood inside of the break seems quite clean, does it look like the break is fairly recent?
I think I would want to repair it. If the pieces fit back together close it wouldn't be very noticeable.
Maybe instead of filling in the tack holes, put brass tacks back in them and call it an Indian gun.
 
It's all plausible. The answer is lost to history though. The break at the wrist was guaranteed to happen there. The grain direction is wrong, the inletting of the lock plate, internals, and probably the trigger bar all remove a lot of wood in a thin part of the stock. Even just recoil could have done it in my opinion.

I've always attributed the scuffs and dings on buttplates as just wear and tear when you loading it standing around and the butt if the gun scrapes on the ground. Especially on brass butt plates, as it is a soft metal.

Native attribution is the tricky one. It was definitely tacked. The shanks appear to be iron as they should be, not brass like modern tacks. Natives did this, but so did anyone who wanted to dress up their rifle. Tacks were available for sale to everyone and used as decoration on a variety of items.

I don't believe to a collector this rifle would ever be worth much, so removing any proof of native ownership would even hurt the value more. But yes times have changed and what is desirable now was not always the case.

Like all these guns, if they could only talk!
 
Agree that the scuffed butt plate is generic.

A simple Google search will disabuse you of the notion that tack decorated stocks was a uniquely Native American custom.

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Tacks, wire & inlayed stocks have existed for centuries world wide.

I am curious what source you reference that states that Native American hunters did not take care of their fire arms?

We all agree that the break or cracks in stocks at the stress point of this example is very common. The wood grain runs across, not along the stress line. Anyone who has split wood for a fire knows how vulnerable that narrow piece of wood is.

The Thompson Center .50 cal. Hawken that I built from a kit in the 1970's has been used to hunt deer in the Tennessee muzzle loader season ever since. The friend I sold it to has a great grandson who will go out with it this year.

It has been cared for & is now considered an heirloom. It does, however, look like it has been in the field for 50 years.

My point is that absent a manufacturer I.D. & some documentation, you are free to tell your rifle's story as you like it.

Carefully repair the break. Find some solid brass furniture tacks you like to restore the pattern on the stock & you have a handsome wall hanger.

Good storytelling doesn't let inconvenient facts get in the way of a good story.
 
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Your rifle has almost pristine screw slots, which is exceedingly rare in an old firearm. Except for the missing chip, that stock can be easily re-glued. Remove all metal parts, including screws. Be sure to use screwdrivers that fit the slots, so as not to damage them. If you don't have a screwdriver that fits, wait until you can get or make one. Carefully clean the broken surfaces of the wood. Soap suds should do it. Use Q-tips if necessary. Don't saturate the wood. Dry thoroughly--wait 24 hours or more.

Contrary to Bayonet's advice, don't use super glue. You want more "open" time and reversibility. You can use ORIGINAL Tite Bond, or better yet use fish glue or hot hide glue. Clean off squeeze out with damp cloth or paper towels. After double-checking alignment of your parts, wrap the wrist tightly with rubber exercise bands or with a small, stretchy rubber hose. Wait patiently for 24 hrs. before unwrapping.

Clean stock gently with warm soap suds. Maybe a small amount of mineral spirits on a clean cloth. NO SANDPAPER, OR I'LL COME BACK AND HAUNT YOU!

Lightly clean and oil steel parts. NO WIRE WHEELS! NO COARSE STEEL WOOL! Leave brass unpolished--it tells part of the rifle's story.

Re-assemble carefully. Tacks are up to you. My preference is to leave the tack holes as artifacts in their own right. They will be an excellent conversation starter. Enjoy displaying your rifle. It's a very nice find. It's probably not worth too much, but I'd be tickled if it were mine. Even if you do have a new stock made, follow these general procedures to preserve your original stock.

I am pretty sure you didn't need to read all this cautionary advice. Please don't be insulted. I wrote it for all the young or less experienced people who might have inherited all of grandpa's old closet guns--like I did decades ago.
 
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Fix it by drilling multiple holes and gluing in dowels. Bamboo shishkabob skewers (you can buy at grocery store) or even bamboo chopsticks (but you need to sand them round) work great due to super high strength (try snapping one of those to see what I mean). Use Titebond glue for high strength. Many of the dowels can be hidden beneath the trigger guard. Exposed ones can be hidden by using a mix of sawdust from the same type of wood (American walnut??) and glue and backfilling the hole, or by emdedding a plug of that wood, but be sure to align the grain.

EDIT: angle the dowels in a forward direction to maximize the length of dowel inserted. Based on your picture, I'd insert at about a 40 degree angle (from the horizontal line of the stock). Use the bamboo....trust me...I used them in a repair and fired hundreds of minies using full powder charge and the repair has held 100%.
 
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Good advice here. However, if you are not experienced with restoring furniture, I encourage you to seek out the advice of somebody that does.

Repairing broken wood can be really tricky. Securing something this eccentrically shaped is going to be potentially very challenging to clamp accurately. You don't want to mar the finish or leave marks… all of which I have done despite my best efforts repairing furniture.

In my experience craftsmen of all sorts are happy to share their experience. If you don't get the repair right there really isn't a happy way to fix it.
 
Likely leaned in a corner and fell over, the ramrod being there kinda spoils the loading by banging the stock. A stuck ball being hammered hard enough could also break the wrist along with tripping in the woods. If someone had wacked it against a tree hard enough to break it the trigger guard holding all together would be bent a lot more. JMHO
 
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Nothing a little Super Glue won't fix!:smile coffee:
Hyde glue.

If the objective is restoration, use hyde glue because it can be removed with heat.

If the objective is to have a shooter, then use acraglas or epoxy and pin it for strength. My preferred way is to have a new stock made.

That's why I say just find a gunstocker who can make you a new stock and can pour a pewter nose. Pewter noses aren't hard and that's a good size pour. It's the small pours that are super hard (I think I would make a mold to cast one) because the wood and pewter would cool off too fast.

Your existing stock is super simple. No relief carving, no inlay, no patchbox to inlet, plain wood. If you're in Indiana, Kentucky, Ohio, Tennessee or Virginia, there are plenty of people. Ditto with Oregon & Washington state. Jack Brooks is north of me near Denver (and he's taught NMLRA GunBuilders' Workshop in Bowling Green, KY and at Trinidad State College).
 
Likely leaned in a corner and fell over, the ramrod being there kinda spoils the loading by banging the stock. A stuck ball being hammered hard enough could also break the wrist along tripping in the woods. If someone had wacked it against a tree hard enough to break it the trigger guard holding all together would be bent a lot more. JMHO
Or like my brother who tripped and fell and didn't drop the long arm. He broke his stock (22) at the wrist and tried to glue it together. I had to remove his glue and reglue it.
 
Or like my brother who tripped and fell and didn't drop the long arm. He broke his stock (22) at the wrist and tried to glue it together. I had to remove his glue and reglue it.
😅 My brother and I both have had Remington Nylon 66 rifles since forever. One really really cold day 40 or so years ago we were out and Steve slipped and broke about 6 - 8 inches off the one piece nylon stock's forearm. Remington honored their lifetime unbreakable warranty and transferred all his rifles innards into a new Mohawk Brown stock no charge👍
 
Your rifle has almost pristine screw slots, which is exceedingly rare in an old firearm. Except for the missing chip, that stock can be easily re-glued. Remove all metal parts, including screws. Be sure to use screwdrivers that fit the slots, so as not to damage them. If you don't have a screwdriver that fits, wait until you can get or make one. Carefully clean the broken surfaces of the wood. Soap suds should do it. Use Q-tips if necessary. Don't saturate the wood. Dry thoroughly--wait 24 hours or more.

Contrary to Bayonet's advice, don't use super glue. You want more "open" time and reversibility. You can use ORIGINAL Tite Bond, or better yet use fish glue or hot hide glue. Clean off squeeze out with damp cloth or paper towels. After double-checking alignment of your parts, wrap the wrist tightly with rubber exercise bands or with a small, stretchy rubber hose. Wait patiently for 24 hrs. before unwrapping.

Clean stock gently with warm soap suds. Maybe a small amount of mineral spirits on a clean cloth. NO SANDPAPER, OR I'LL COME BACK AND HAUNT YOU!

Lightly clean and oil steel parts. NO WIRE WHEELS! NO COARSE STEEL WOOL! Leave brass unpolished--it tells part of the rifle's story.

Re-assemble carefully. Tacks are up to you. My preference is to leave the tack holes as artifacts in their own right. They will be an excellent conversation starter. Enjoy displaying your rifle. It's a very nice find. It's probably not worth too much, but I'd be tickled if it were mine. Even if you do have a new stock made, follow these general procedures to preserve your original stock.

I am pretty sure you didn't need to read all this cautionary advice. Please don't be insulted. I wrote it for all the young or less experienced people who might have inherited all of grandpa's old closet guns--like I did decades ago.
On the "super glue" comment I was being sarcastic. Nothing like alittle humor in the morning with my coffee :smile coffee:
 
On the "super glue" comment I was being sarcastic. Nothing like alittle humor in the morning with my coffee :smile coffee:
I understand, and I knew our friend didn't need all the detail I gave him, either. But I was writing for younger people and inexperienced people who might unintentionally damage an old collectible or wall hanger out of plain ignorance.
 
Coming back one more time just to comment on the rifle: That old girl really does have refined lines. It's rather elegant to my eye, even though it isn't all blinged up, and even though it's dinged and broken. When I was a kid (and that was a long time ago) there was a closet in our old house with a number of old long guns leaning in the corner. I suppose they'd been there since before I was born. They weren't family heirlooms--just old guns various people had given to my dad because they were already beat up and he enjoyed having them. None of them had broken stocks, but they were worn, dented, scratched, rusty, etc. There were two trapdoor Springfields, and a Harper's Ferry musket--all in deplorable condition. Living with those (which were eventually given to me more than 50 years ago) was how my love affair with beat up old firearms began.
 
On the "super glue" comment I was being sarcastic. Nothing like alittle humor in the morning with my coffee :smile coffee:
Nothing like super glue to give the coffee a kick.

Inmates/convicts used to add white-out to their home brewed alcohol.

BTW, that butt is too crescent shaped to grind coffee like a rifle musket butt can.
 

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