zburkett
Sergeant Major
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Location
- Orange County, Virginia
Once, at a gun show, I sold a CS buckle and belt I had worn for three decades, then left hanging in the garage a couple of decades more. It was old and worn, but I had it clearly marked as to what it was. Later at the same show I saw the same belt and buckle being sold as an original with a zero added to the price tag. That still bothers me. I'm a long ways from being an expert but I have learned a few things to watch for when buying a "genuine Civil War widget." So, for you just getting started I hope this helps.
(1) A logo or markings will almost always be stamped, not etched.
(2) If it is marked with the country of manufacture it is almost always made after 1891, before that it would be marked with the city of manufacture (London not England or not London, England.).
(3) Aluminum and stainless steel came after the war. You do need to learn what putter looks because it can be mistaken for aluminum.
(4) A Civil War knife will not have the big rivets holding the scales in place. They will most likely be pins.
(5) On some show tables and frequently on Ebay I will see a lot of different buckles or buttons that all have the same patina. That is a dead give away, unless something has been stored or buried together they will not age the same. A Texas buckle should will not have the same patina as a Virginia button unless that patina came out of the same bottle.
Lastly, if it is too good a deal to be true it is probably phony.
I hope some of you out there with a lot more knowledge than me will add a few of your tips.
(1) A logo or markings will almost always be stamped, not etched.
(2) If it is marked with the country of manufacture it is almost always made after 1891, before that it would be marked with the city of manufacture (London not England or not London, England.).
(3) Aluminum and stainless steel came after the war. You do need to learn what putter looks because it can be mistaken for aluminum.
(4) A Civil War knife will not have the big rivets holding the scales in place. They will most likely be pins.
(5) On some show tables and frequently on Ebay I will see a lot of different buckles or buttons that all have the same patina. That is a dead give away, unless something has been stored or buried together they will not age the same. A Texas buckle should will not have the same patina as a Virginia button unless that patina came out of the same bottle.
Lastly, if it is too good a deal to be true it is probably phony.
I hope some of you out there with a lot more knowledge than me will add a few of your tips.
just sayin.