Zouave Uniforms

[The Last Observer]

How late in the war did zouave units wear their characteristic clothing?

I've read that as the war went on, clothing among American units became simpler and more mass-produced, with the knee-length coat giving way to the nine-button shell jacket and then the four-button sackcloth jacket. At the same time, the number of units designated "zouave" increased, for example the 140th and 146th New York were renamed to be zouaves in recognition of their courage late in the war. Presumably they would not have been issued with the flamboyant uniforms worn early in the war, or if they were then they wouldn't have been able to maintain them for long.

Any information would be interesting, and references to sources would be particularly interesting.

 

[The Last Observer]

From what I have learned, the zouves were dressed on their own regimental pattern of uniform, differing slightly between regiments in color and decoration. The greatcoat was the same issue coat like the rest of the army. Here is my version of a photo of Union 95th Pennsylvania Infantry (Gosline's Zouaves) near Centerville PA in early 1862. You can see just how the uniform was modified in the field:
View attachment 481861

Yes, it is my color. One of the problems of coloring these photos is the very dark 'red' - the emulsion on the plate did not respond well to it. The same applies to the French 'pantalon rouge' - you can never get close to the real color without over-coloring the original. Red piping is almost lost!
This is the drawing I took the color from:
View attachment 481862

That's really well recoloured!

In that photograph, is the fellow on the right wearing a chasseur cap?

 

[Elliot Crumblemuffin]

The Zouves are so unique; they are almost foreign looking to me! I know that the U.S. units emulated foreign units, but it just seems like too much trouble to wear a nice uniform like that in the field when it's just going to get dirty! Thanks to everyone for sharing the images and information!

 

[The Last Observer]

The Zouves are so unique; they are almost foreign looking to me! I know that the U.S. units emulated foreign units, but it just seems like too much trouble to wear a nice uniform like that in the field when it's just going to get dirty! Thanks to everyone for sharing the images and information!

They are intended to look foreign!

Many people will already know this, and I apologise if you know this already, but they're an American copy of a French copy of indigenous Algerian clothing. When we copied them from the Algerians, it included changing them to make them both more practical and more "exotic-looking." For example, the turbans and fezzes were fairly unusual among Algerians of the time, who mostly wore more practical headdresses that protected the back of their neck from the sun. Both the fez and the zouave turban are more traditionally Turkish than Algerian. However, to French people who'd never been outside of the Métropole but thought all Muslims looked identical, it made sense. An American equivalent might be including a Lakota feathered headdress in an Apache costume.

The shoes and gaiters, on the other hand, are just normal French infantry style, not what Algerians would have worn, and the short coat is closer to French clothing than to Algerian.

So no nation actually dresses like this - it's going to look foreign no matter where you're looking from.

 

[Elliot Crumblemuffin]

They are intended to look foreign!

Many people will already know this, and I apologise if you know this already, but they're an American copy of a French copy of indigenous Algerian clothing. When we copied them from the Algerians, it included changing them to make them both more practical and more "exotic-looking." For example, the turbans and fezzes were fairly unusual among Algerians of the time, who mostly wore more practical headdresses that protected the back of their neck from the sun. Both the fez and the zouave turban are more traditionally Turkish than Algerian. However, to French people who'd never been outside of the Métropole but thought all Muslims looked identical, it made sense. An American equivalent might be including a Lakota feathered headdress in an Apache costume.

The shoes and gaiters, on the other hand, are just normal French infantry style, not what Algerians would have worn, and the short coat is closer to French clothing than to Algerian.

So no nation actually dresses like this - it's going to look foreign no matter where you're looking from.

Thank you for the reply! From my modern perspective it seems weird that certain members of the Army would be ALLOWED to look so different than everybody else .

BUT here I am saying that knowing full well that I've worn a different uniform and been allowed a beard while on duty with foreign nationals overseas in order to blend in (although it wasn't as strikingly different as the Zouaves).

 

[The Last Observer]

Thank you for the reply! From my modern perspective it seems weird that certain members of the Army would be ALLOWED to look so different than everybody else .

My understanding is that it's because visual distinctiveness was necessary for their own commanders to manage the battle. They didn't have radios or computers, so the only way that your general could tell if a particular unit had arrived at a particular place was if they could see them through a telescope - and that means being able to tell them apart from other units.

Ideally this is also what flags are for, which is one reason why units of the time had such immense flags.

If you read about the battle of First Bull Run, there are numerous disasters caused by units looking too similar, both in their uniforms and their flags. A war which had long-ranged weaponry but not long-ranged communications equipment made such mistakes easier, and the consequences even more tragic.

 

[Elliot Crumblemuffin]

My understanding is that it's because visual distinctiveness was necessary for their own commanders to manage the battle. They didn't have radios or computers, so the only way that your general could tell if a particular unit had arrived at a particular place was if they could see them through a telescope - and that means being able to tell them apart from other units.

Ideally this is also what flags are for, which is one reason why units of the time had such immense flags.

If you read about the battle of First Bull Run, there are numerous disasters caused by units looking too similar, both in their uniforms and their flags. A war which had long-ranged weaponry but not long-ranged communications equipment made such mistakes easier, and the consequences even more tragic.

That's a GREAT perspective, thanks! Despite being aware of some troop/uniform confusion at 1st Bull Run, it never crossed my mind that having such unique uniforms would be a benefit towards troop management.

 

[Old Soldier]

That's really well recoloured!

In that photograph, is the fellow on the right wearing a chasseur cap?

Thank you. I do not use a 'colorizing program' but a simple wash (about 98% transparency) over the top, so no 'brown blues' or 'grey browns'. Same as painting a picture. if you want it to stand out more, you just go over it again. As to that cap, I think it is a standard kepi that has not been 'settled' after the last soaking. It is sitting on his head as the others are, but without the crown being tipped forward. BTW - the 'long buttons' on the guy to the left is due to his moving during the exposure.

 

[Old Soldier]

The Zouves are so unique; they are almost foreign looking to me! I know that the U.S. units emulated foreign units, but it just seems like too much trouble to wear a nice uniform like that in the field when it's just going to get dirty! Thanks to everyone for sharing the images and information!

The US army at this time followed French military practice and uniform but with their own colors - no pantalons rouges. The zouaves were French Algerian troops who gained a reputation for fighting tough - the 'Green Berets' of their day. They were also very distinctive in their dress which made them stand out. They were not originally part of the standing army but seem to have been militia and volunteer regiments - uniformed by their colonels. The original zouve trousers were VERY wide and baggy and made of quite thin material but US zouaves seem to have adopted much narrower ones with thicker material. Some of these did wear the French-style red trousers (pantalons rouges).

French Zouaves de la Garde during the Second Italian War of Independence in 1859.

Both Federal and Confederate armies had zouave regiments. They were used and trained as 'light infantry' fighting in open order - skirmishers - and were usually organised in regiments, not as companies of other infantry regiments. After losses in the field, they may well have been sent as companies to reinforce other infantry regiments. The dress varied considerably in the field depending on resupply of their non-standard unifoms.

 

[Falco1863]

Might I recommend visiting zouavedatabase.com for the plethora of zouave units in the American Civil War?

 

[Package4]

The so-called Remington Zouave had a sword bayonet with a brass grip

There is no evidence that the Remington M1863 was ever issued. There were contracts totaling, I believe 12,500 and all were accounted for in a northern arsenal at the end of the war. I researched these quite extensively and found to my knowledge that the first reference as to these being "zouave" came from Bannerman, who bought the lion share of these.

He later sold them to individuals and foreign governments with an advert that read something like "the rifle that the American zouaves carried in the late war". I've posted on here before regarding these and if I can find it again I'll post the advert.

The sad thing about these is the fact that they were quite possibly the finest arm made during the war. They are extremely accurate and favored by many today in the NSSA.

 

[Kurtlg]

There is no evidence that the Remington M1863 was ever issued. There were contracts totaling, I believe 12,500 and all were accounted for in a northern arsenal at the end of the war. I researched these quite extensively and found to my knowledge that the first reference as to these being "zouave" came from Bannerman, who bought the lion share of these.

He later sold them to individuals and foreign governments with an advert that read something like "the rifle that the American zouaves carried in the late war". I've posted on here before regarding these and if I can find it again I'll post the advert.

The sad thing about these is the fact that they were quite possibly the finest arm made during the war. They are extremely accurate and favored by many today in the NSSA.

Yes , I was aware of that. A marketing device used to sell a fine firearm . Wouldn't it be great if you could pick one up at Bannerman's price !

 

[Package4]

There is no evidence that the Remington M1863 was ever issued. There were contracts totaling, I believe 12,500 and all were accounted for in a northern arsenal at the end of the war. I researched these quite extensively and found to my knowledge that the first reference as to these being "zouave" came from Bannerman, who bought the lion share of these.

He later sold them to individuals and foreign governments with an advert that read something like "the rifle that the American zouaves carried in the late war". I've posted on here before regarding these and if I can find it again I'll post the advert.

The sad thing about these is the fact that they were quite possibly the finest arm made during the war. They are extremely accurate and favored by many today in the NSSAund it:

From Bannerman's Catalogue:

"Item 100
Remington Muzzleloading 58-Calibre Rifles with sword bayonets; new guns, tarnished from long storage and slightly specked with rust. Length 44 inches; weight of rifle, about 9 pounds. Stamped US eagle, 1863 on the lock plate. The bayonet has fine steel blade, bronze handle, with leather scabbard on which there are brass mouth and tip pieces. The stocks are polished walnut with brass box on the butt for holding caps or wiping rag; brass guard butt plate and bands. This lot originally consisted of 10,000 guns purchased in the Fall of 1900 by sealed proposals where we outbid all competition by the small margin of 57-100 of a cent on each gun. All have been sold with the exception of this lot of 100, which we preferred to keep for our retail trade. Price for each gun with bayonet $7.85 each. This is the kind of gun usually carried by Zouave regiments."

 

[Kurtlg]

From Bannerman's Catalogue:

"Item 100
Remington Muzzleloading 58-Calibre Rifles with sword bayonets; new guns, tarnished from long storage and slightly specked with rust. Length 44 inches; weight of rifle, about 9 pounds. Stamped US eagle, 1863 on the lock plate. The bayonet has fine steel blade, bronze handle, with leather scabbard on which there are brass mouth and tip pieces. The stocks are polished walnut with brass box on the butt for holding caps or wiping rag; brass guard butt plate and bands. This lot originally consisted of 10,000 guns purchased in the Fall of 1900 by sealed proposals where we outbid all competition by the small margin of 57-100 of a cent on each gun. All have been sold with the exception of this lot of 100, which we preferred to keep for our retail trade. Price for each gun with bayonet $7.85 each. This is the kind of gun usually carried by Zouave regiments."

With bayonet for $7 85 !!!!!

 

[Kurtlg]

From Bannerman's Catalogue:

"Item 100
Remington Muzzleloading 58-Calibre Rifles with sword bayonets; new guns, tarnished from long storage and slightly specked with rust. Length 44 inches; weight of rifle, about 9 pounds. Stamped US eagle, 1863 on the lock plate. The bayonet has fine steel blade, bronze handle, with leather scabbard on which there are brass mouth and tip pieces. The stocks are polished walnut with brass box on the butt for holding caps or wiping rag; brass guard butt plate and bands. This lot originally consisted of 10,000 guns purchased in the Fall of 1900 by sealed proposals where we outbid all competition by the small margin of 57-100 of a cent on each gun. All have been sold with the exception of this lot of 100, which we preferred to keep for our retail trade. Price for each gun with bayonet $7.85 each. This is the kind of gun usually carried by Zouave regiments."

The average annual wage in 1900 was about $450 so not all that cheap at the time

 

[The Last Observer]

Might I recommend visiting zouavedatabase.com for the plethora of zouave units in the American Civil War?

Oh hey, this looks really thorough. It has my favourite zouave unit, the 11th Indiana (who had the least practical uniforms in the entire war, in my opinion) along with all the different units which were merged into them.

This is a great find, thank you!

 

[The Last Observer]

The original zouve trousers were VERY wide and baggy and made of quite thin material but US zouaves seem to have adopted much narrower ones with thicker material. Some of these did wear the French-style red trousers (pantalons rouges).

As an aside, if you've ever worn Algerian-style loose trousers when hiking, they are unbelievably practical. They're particularly good for mountain walking, which is appropriate for a mountainous country like Algeria, and are surprisingly warm considering how thin the fabric is. The only downside is that if you're walking through thorn thickets or past barbed wire, they have a tendency to snag.

 

[JulieWeathers]

How late in the war did zouave units wear their characteristic clothing?

I've read that as the war went on, clothing among American units became simpler and more mass-produced, with the knee-length coat giving way to the nine-button shell jacket and then the four-button sackcloth jacket. At the same time, the number of units designated "zouave" increased, for example the 140th and 146th New York were renamed to be zouaves in recognition of their courage late in the war. Presumably they would not have been issued with the flamboyant uniforms worn early in the war, or if they were then they wouldn't have been able to maintain them for long.

Any information would be interesting, and references to sources would be particularly interesting.

Early in the war, units formed privately and often designed their own uniforms. At the first battle of Manassas (Bull Run), there were at least two Zouave units. Col. Elmer Ellsworth (the one shot taking down the Confederate flag from the Marshall Hotel in Alexandria and thus becoming the first Union officer to die in the war) took over a drill company and renamed them the Zouaves and used a Zouave drill manual to train his men. This included the 11th New York "Fire" Zouaves. They were the ones who were mauled terribly at the first battle.

Wheat's Louisiana Tigers were also at Manassas, which caused some confusion. Of course, it was all mass confusion. Most of the Confederate soldiers were still wearing their federal uniforms.

JEB Stuart held off a charge until he could be sure which Zouaves were advancing. The wind snapped their flag open revealing them to be the Fire Zouaves and they charged.

 

[14NYSM]

A.C. Redwood's painting of the 14th Brooklyn at the RR Cut, July 1, 1863. the 14th .N.Y. Militia was the only U.S. regiment that wore red pants at 1st Bull Run. They wore the distictive unifom after the war when back as a militia/National Guard.

 

[JulieWeathers]

A.C. Redwood's painting of the 14th Brooklyn at the RR Cut, July 1, 1863. the 14th .N.Y. Militia was the only U.S. regiment that wore red pants at 1st Bull Run. They wore the distictive unifom after the war when back as a militia/National Guard.
View attachment 482469

Yes, Jackson even referred to them as "those red legs." Stuart had been held back from attacking until later in the battle and wanted to make sure who was advancing so he waited for the flag to reveal who they were. Wheat's Tiger wore different uniforms, blue and white striped pants I believe. I don't recall for sure now. At any rate, from a journal of the battle, Stuart wanted to make sure which Zouaves were advancing before he attacked. I assume he didn't know what other Zouave uniforms looked like, only that there were some Confederate Zouaves on the field.

 

[The Last Observer]

Wheat's Tiger wore different uniforms, blue and white striped pants I believe. I don't recall for sure now.

Some Tigers did wear the blue-and-white striped trousers; however I have read that each company of the Tiger zouaves wore different uniforms. That must have made for a headache.