Uniforms Two Confederate Surgeons: Uniform Comparison Help Please

[lelliott19]

photos from ADAH and FindAGrave
Here are two Confederate surgeons, wearing what initially appear to be very similar uniforms. Each man wears a grey double-breasted frock coat with seven sets of buttons. Both coats have dark (black) collar and cuffs. Each cuff is adorned with gold braid or tape at the proximal margin, and each cuff has three metal buttons. Both coats appear to have been intended to hit about 2/3 of the way down between the hip and knee. Both surgeons held the rank of Major and served through the entire war. I'll run through the similarities and differences I notice in the two uniforms and would appreciate everyone's assistance in pointing out things I may have missed.

The man on the left is Dr. Wm C Cross who served first as Surgeon of the 16th Alabama; then as Brigade Surgeon for SAM Wood's brigade; and then in hospital service for the mobile AoT hospitals (mostly in Georgia.) Dr. Cross' uniform was tailored for him by Malinda, an enslaved woman on his plantation who is listed as a seamstress, but whose talents exhibited here seem to place her in the category of highly skilled tailor. Dr. Cross' accouterments were made on the plantation by Ben, listed as a saddler/harness maker. The man on the right is Dr. Otis Frederick Manson who served through the war in the Moore Hospital, Richmond, VA, so it seems safe to assume that Dr. Manson's uniform was obtained in that city - perhaps from a Richmond Tailor? Dr. Manson wears no accouterments in his portrait, so a comparison of them is not possible. Dr. Cross was 46-47 yo when this picture was taken and Dr. Manson was 39 or 40 yo.

FABRIC - I'm not a fabric expert so Ill defer to @Rusk County Avengers on the comparison of the material. To my untrained eye, it appears that the fabric of Dr. Cross' uniform exhibits a weave pattern and is much heavier compared to the smoother, lighter weight material of Dr. Manson's coat.

BUTTONS & ACCOUTERMENTS - Both jackets have seven sets of buttons, evenly spaced between the waist and the collar bones. As a result, Dr Manson's buttons are slightly farther apart since he is taller. For purposes of discussion, Ill designate the buttons as L 1-7 and R 1-7; with 1 being at the collar bone and L being on our left as we view the image. It's interesting to note that the spacing of the buttons L1 and L2 as well as R3 and R4 create a problem with the strap of Dr Cross' sword hanger. As can be seen, the strap was custom made and had no buckle to adjust its length. Perhaps this was necessary to keep the tip of his sword from dragging the ground? Or maybe it had to do with the length of his body from shoulder to hip? No idea. Good thing he didn't have to wear his sword when treating the sick and wounded.

COLLAR & RANK INSIGNIA - Both men wear a stand-up collar of black. The collars appear to be approximately the same height. The only difference I can see, besides the weight of the material, is the rank insignia. Dr. Manson wears what appear to be a single star on each side of his collar, in accordance with his rank of Major. Dr. Cross seems to have some rank insignia on his collar, but it is difficult to determine exactly what it might be? It seems to be a bar of some kind?

CUFFS - The cuff trim on Dr. Cross' (left) coat extends fully halfway between his wrist and elbow. Sheen on this trim seems to indicate that it was velvet or satinet. A narrow strip of braid at the upper edge separates the cuff trim from the sleeve. The three buttons of Dr Cross' cuffs are all situated within the margins of the trim and there is no evidence of officer's gold braiding on the sleeves. The trim on Dr Manson's (rt) cuffs seem to be much shorter, even though they are embellished at the top with 1 - 1 1/2 inch wide tape braid. His sleeves are embellished with traditional double row "chicken guts" braid, in accordance with his rank of Major. The third button on Dr. Manson's cuffs is sewed outside the margin of the black trim.
EDIT TO ADD: It looks like the cuff buttons on Dr Cross sleeves are the same size as the buttons that close the jacket? Instead of the normal smaller size sleeve buttons? They're certainly larger than the ones on Dr. Manson's sleeves.

What similarities or differences did I miss? Please add your observations below! Thanks.

 

[Seduzal]

Thanks for sharing this awesome article. You know that I am no expert on this subject but to me on uniform looks like a working uniform and the other a dress uniform.

 

[lelliott19]

Thanks for sharing this awesome article. You know that I am no expert on this subject but to me on uniform looks like a working uniform and the other a dress uniform.

Ahhh good point. One thing I meant to address that I forgot. The way the sleeves are attached. Dr. Cross' sleeves seem to attach high up on the shoulder - like they do today. Dr. Manson's shoulder seams look to be lower down - maybe two inches lower? I'm not sure which one is actually correct. Dr Cross' uniform was expertly tailored and custom fit - but did fashion of the day dictate shoulder seams at the shoulder? Perhaps fashion of the day dictated the lower shoulder seam as seen in Dr Manson's uniform? But being out in the country of Alabama, neither Malinda or Dr. Cross knew it was "a thing"? Maybe @JPK Huson 1863 or @Mrs. V can comment on the shoulder seams? They both know a ton about period clothing.

 

[major bill]

The sleeve cuff trim on Dr. Cross is interesting. Dr. Manson has a nice quartered cap, but I wonder what color his cap is.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

I'd say both are dress uniforms. Double-breasted frock coats were expensive, more so when money became worthless, and fine fabric scarce, and officers had to have themselves measured and their coats tailor made out of their own pocket for them. Thus officers more than likely reserved frock coats for dress occasions, (parties, morning dress parade, "officer's call" and so forth), and had cheaper coats, such as tailor made sack coats for the field. After all it was expensive to have made in comparison, and having to replace them every three months in the field would get to be a financial pain. Doctors especially, when doing their awfully dirty job, a cheap linen, oznaburg, and other cheap usually white coat would be worn over their shirt, and perhaps vest (really wishing I took pictures of the ones I have seen right now). Not anything like these frock coats, doctors were probably seen in them less than other Confederate officers. Also it very interesting to see Cross with such a sword...

As for the matter at hand, I wouldn't call myself a fabric expert like some other great minds here, and to add further difficulty, the pictures aren't clear enough to tell the weave of the fabric at all to me. Looking at the two pictures, the look of the weight of the cloth, I might can make a some guesses.

Doctor Cross might, be wearing a coat made of kersey woven wool. Again might. It looks to be the right weight, and it was plentiful due to things like imported blue-gray British kersey. Oh and it was cheap. His could be the I have often suspected existed lighter shade, or just be the lighting when the picture was taken. Again, its only a possibility, due to how clear the picture isn't it could just as easily be jean.

Doctor Manson on the other hand, I think it safe to say his coat is broadcloth. An expensive cloth usually reserved for officers and gentlemen. That's just how it looks to me, probably cadet gray too.

I can think of a few others who might be able to shed a better light with better opinions, like @Package4, but I appreciate the shout out and good opinion of my opinion.

 

[UCVRelics]

I can't add much as all I see the Alabama State Seal sword plate and the cav sword which we have already discussed.

 

[lelliott19]

I can't add much as all I see the Alabama State Seal sword plate and the cav sword which we have already discussed.

We never did decide what kind of buttons did we? They aren't really clear enough to make a determination except to note that they are "puffy" buttons.

EDIT TO ADD: It looks like the cuff buttons on Dr Cross sleeves are the same size as the buttons that close the jacket? Instead of the normal smaller size sleeve buttons?

 

[Mrs. V]

I see what you mean about the shoulder seams. The fellow on the left has his sleeve(arm sycke) higher up on his arm. Well above the top of the bicept. The fellow on the left has the arm sycke quite a ways down the arm, to the top or beginning of the bicept. Giving him a more sloped shoulder. Might have been done to make his chest look broader. As for fabric. I'm going to guess wool by the drape. There were more than one weight of wool cloth out there. And you might have a summer/spring Frock and a winter one. Most definitely dress uniforms. Sack coat or shell for battle. Easier to move In a shorter jacket.

 

[Package4]

I'd say both are dress uniforms. Double-breasted frock coats were expensive, more so when money became worthless, and fine fabric scarce, and officers had to have themselves measured and their coats tailor made out of their own pocket for them. Thus officers more than likely reserved frock coats for dress occasions, (parties, morning dress parade, "officer's call" and so forth), and had cheaper coats, such as tailor made sack coats for the field. After all it was expensive to have made in comparison, and having to replace them every three months in the field would get to be a financial pain. Doctors especially, when doing their awfully dirty job, a cheap linen, oznaburg, and other cheap usually white coat would be worn over their shirt, and perhaps vest (really wishing I took pictures of the ones I have seen right now). Not anything like these frock coats, doctors were probably seen in them less than other Confederate officers. Also it very interesting to see Cross with such a sword...

As for the matter at hand, I wouldn't call myself a fabric expert like some other great minds here, and to add further difficulty, the pictures aren't clear enough to tell the weave of the fabric at all to me. Looking at the two pictures, the look of the weight of the cloth, I might can make a some guesses.

Doctor Cross might, be wearing a coat made of kersey woven wool. Again might. It looks to be the right weight, and it was plentiful due to things like imported blue-gray British kersey. Oh and it was cheap. His could be the I have often suspected existed lighter shade, or just be the lighting when the picture was taken. Again, its only a possibility, due to how clear the picture isn't it could just as easily be jean.

Doctor Manson on the other hand, I think it safe to say his coat is broadcloth. An expensive cloth usually reserved for officers and gentlemen. That's just how it looks to me, probably cadet gray too.

I can think of a few others who might be able to shed a better light with better opinions, like @Package4, but I appreciate the shout out and good opinion of my opinion.

Thank you for the shout out, I concur that Mason's coat is a broadcloth, most likely procured from Richmond stocks. Both have functional cuffs with cuff buttons, Dr Cross has muffin cuff staff buttons. Dr. Cross, I think, is wearing a coat of satinet most likely loomed locally, maybe even on his own plantation. Many plantations made their own cloth. Particularly casinet which was considered "slave cloth", a rough version of satinet.

Period satinet was a cotton warp with a wool filler, finished to resemble wool, it was sufficient for a dress uniform, but did not wear well for everyday use in the field.

 

[General Butler]

Thank you for the shout out, I concur that Mason's coat is a broadcloth, most likely procured from Richmond stocks. Both have functional cuffs with cuff buttons, Dr Cross has muffin cuff staff buttons. Dr. Cross, I think, is wearing a coat of satinet most likely loomed locally, maybe even on his own plantation. Many plantations made their own cloth. Particularly casinet which was considered "slave cloth", a rough version of satinet.

Period satinet was a cotton warp with a wool filler, finished to resemble wool, it was sufficient for a dress uniform, but did not wear well for everyday use in the field.

Package4 seems to be pretty well versed in uniforms but that's just me guess. LOL

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Package4 seems to be pretty well versed in uniforms but that's just me guess. LOL

Better than me....

Also, I should have mentioned satinette. Just had jean and kersey on the mind.

 

[lelliott19]

Also, I should have mentioned satinette. Just had jean and kersey on the mind.

I found your reply extremely helpful. Thank you so much.

Dr. Cross, I think, is wearing a coat of satinet most likely loomed locally, maybe even on his own plantation. Many plantations made their own cloth. Particularly casinet which was considered "slave cloth", a rough version of satinet.

They did loom their own cloth on the plantation but I wasn't sure if this was an example or not. Since we know that Dr Cross' uniform was tailored there, I've always wondered if the cloth might have come from the plantation. I can imagine that sewing a uniform like this was no easy feat? I guess the leather for the sword belt came from the plantation too. Evidently there were saddlery and harness making/repair facilities. Would the belt have been one that was modified for this use or would it have been specially made? It looks pretty worn compared to the cross chest strap (whatever it's called.)

 

[Mrs. V]

I found your reply extremely helpful. Thank you so much.

They did loom their own cloth on the plantation but I wasn't sure if this was an example or not. Since we know that Dr Cross' uniform was tailored there, I've always wondered if the cloth might have come from the plantation. I can imagine that sewing a uniform like this was no easy feat? I guess the leather for the sword belt came from the plantation too. Evidently there were saddlery and harness making/repair facilities. Would the belt have been one that was modified for this use or would it have been specially made? It looks pretty worn compared to the cross chest strap (whatever it's called.)

People who sewed in the day were very good at it. When I think of someone taking a drawing of pattern peices, enlarging them and then hand sewing? So impressed. And believe it or not, it's the hand sewn button holes that impresses me the most!

 

[lelliott19]

People who sewed in the day were very good at it. When I think of someone taking a drawing of pattern peices, enlarging them and then hand sewing? So impressed. And believe it or not, it's the hand sewn button holes that impresses me the most!

That must have been a really difficult project. Would they have even had a pattern? or just written regulations and then tried to adapt a pattern from an existing garment? And back to the information you provided about the shoulder seams (arm sycke) thank you so much for weighing in on that. I know the image of Dr Manson is not the best, but is there anything else you can tell about the arm sycke on Dr Cross' uniform? Or anything else about the tailoring?

 

[major bill]

Being made by a tailor to the whims of the officer, Civil War officer frock coat's skirts came in different lengths. If you will, think of mini, midi, and maxi length skirts. I generally call them German cut, American cut, and French cut. Each style comes in different sub styles. Confederate officers seem to have liked long French skirts, American cut skirts, or short American cut skirts. Both doctors seem to wear coat skirts well above the knee. Also note both doctors wear two columns of buttons with the columns set fairly close together.

 

[7thWisconsin]

When you wear a military belt over a coat like that, without a sash, the belt rubs on the bottom button of your frock coat. He'll eventually lose one or both. It's the button I've replaced most frequently. The doctor isn't a military fashion plate, though. He's just wearing a plain old cavalry saber, rather than an officer's sword, and certainly not a medical officer's sword or fancy militia sword. It might not even be his or he certainly doesn't intend on wearing it very often.

 

[Package4]

That must have been a really difficult project. Would they have even had a pattern? or just written regulations and then tried to adapt a pattern from an existing garment? And back to the information you provided about the shoulder seams (arm sycke) thank you so much for weighing in on that. I know the image of Dr Manson is not the best, but is there anything else you can tell about the arm sycke on Dr Cross' uniform? Or anything else about the tailoring?
View attachment 356511
View attachment 356512

There is a very good chance he already had a couple of frock coats and used one as a pattern. I can't believe this late in the war that this was his first coat.

 

[Package4]

I found your reply extremely helpful. Thank you so much.

They did loom their own cloth on the plantation but I wasn't sure if this was an example or not. Since we know that Dr Cross' uniform was tailored there, I've always wondered if the cloth might have come from the plantation. I can imagine that sewing a uniform like this was no easy feat? I guess the leather for the sword belt came from the plantation too. Evidently there were saddlery and harness making/repair facilities. Would the belt have been one that was modified for this use or would it have been specially made? It looks pretty worn compared to the cross chest strap (whatever it's called.)

The over the shoulder strap would only be needed when he carried a sword, which would not have been that frequent, thus the difference in wear. The strap could also be newer, good observation.

 

[Package4]

The sleeve cuff trim on Dr. Cross is interesting. Dr. Manson has a nice quartered cap, but I wonder what color his cap is.

Most likely a black kepi, there are a few known I'd Southern surgeons black kepis recently surfaced, though they came in all colors towards the end of the war.

From a collecting standpoint, black kepis are fraught with peril, black was a predominant French color and many purported black and other colors have proven to be French. Unless there is a lock down provenance, black kepis are a risk.

 

[lelliott19]

I can't believe this late in the war that this was his first coat.

The image of Dr Cross is snipped from a group photo of SAM Wood and his staff. The uniform SAM Wood is wearing always made me think it was pretty early in the war? Dr Cross was relieved from duty with the brigade and assigned to hospital duty in April 1863 so it was definitely before that. The dates of some other events may help pinpoint more exactly, but in general, I don't think its too late in the war.
Oct 30 1861 Dr Cross summoned to Knoxville as brigade surgeon "bring two horses"
April 1862 Dr Cross Senior brigade surgeon at Mickey House field hospital Shiloh
Oct 1862 Martin Walt promoted to QM after Oct 1862. He is still wearing 1st Lt insignia in the group image.
<Since the image includes Martin Walt QM I think it was taken in here some time>
April 23 1863 Dr Cross Provost pass Tullahoma to Chattanooga; relieved from brigade and ordered to hospital service