Trapdoor Springfield info

jekct1212

Corporal
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Location
Thomasville Georgia
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So I bought this today and it shoots great but I'd like to know some info about it, I was hoping someone on here would know more than I do! I'll post pictures of any other parts of the gun if I need to.
 
You have a VERY nice cut down sporter trap door converted from a type 2 Springfield. The stock appears to have been refinished. There should be a date on the back end of lock-plate and should be some inspectors marks on the barrel up on the hammer end. A lot of these started life as a Springfield musket and then were converted when the trap door system came in.

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With no date on the plate I believe its a post CW made trapdoor. If you could post photos of the barrel marking it would help. With the stock refinished look ad see if there are any inspector cartouche marks on the butt of the stock.
 
View attachment 129866 View attachment 129865 View attachment 129864 So I bought this today and it shoots great but I'd like to know some info about it, I was hoping someone on here would know more than I do! I'll post pictures of any other parts of the gun if I need to.

Take a look at a factory carbine - note how the foreend is more refined
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/TheRealHobie/Firearms/Trapdoors/S900.jpg

You could have a lot of fun reshaping yours to more closely resemble a true carbine stock.
 
Didn't all carbines have a saddle ring on the left side? plus the front sight is not original to the gun.
 
View attachment 129866 View attachment 129865 View attachment 129864 So I bought this today and it shoots great but I'd like to know some info about it, I was hoping someone on here would know more than I do! I'll post pictures of any other parts of the gun if I need to.

You said you shot it, with what? Factory ammo and what weight bullet, etc.? Some of the early trapdoors had a rather weak breach block- on the inside of the block it's more arched that the later models.
 
it's a nice looking carbine. I have an infantry model. They speak with some authority when you shoot them, don't they?

Keep your brass. These rounds are real easy to reload.
 
I paid 500 for it, is that good?

You couldn't touch an original carbine for that kind of money. I've seen the rifles going for $800.00 in Cabela's, the carbines would be at a premium to that. Did the seller say anything about it being converted from a rifle?
 
You couldn't touch an original carbine for that kind of money. I've seen the rifles going for $800.00 in Cabela's, the carbines would be at a premium to that. Did the seller say anything about it being converted from a rifle?

Yes, they said it was 24" inches not 22 so that ruled out carbine but I liked that it had the look of one and it's the oldest gun I own so far so I jumped at it. They do lay down the law when fired! I shot a coke can with it and it was obliterated!
 
Does anyone know what the 24 on the stock could be?

A lot of the trapdoors were issued to militias and national guard units as late as the 1920's. It's probably a rack or armory number used for inventory purposes. I'm sure someone with a better idea will come along shortly with the correct answer.

There should be a date stamped on top of the breach block just behind the hinge. That would give you an idea of the model the action is. The Buffington rear sights are found on the later models, but I suspect yours might be a mix of parts. Nice gun though. I think it's every bit worth the money you paid.

Check out this site for more info on your carbine-->http://trapdoorcollector.com/
 
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it's a nice looking carbine. I have an infantry model. They speak with some authority when you shoot them, don't they?

Keep your brass. These rounds are real easy to reload.

They used the short load and called it a 45/55. That is what I would suggest as a load for the short barrel.
I had an officers model and shot the 45/70 load and it was very uncomfortable to continue that.
 
What does the 24 (or what I think is a 24) and there is no date on the plate but there are eagle and proof stamps on the barrel.

The date on the front of the bolt (near the hinge) is *generally* when it was made, but often those bolts were swapped out if the weapon was rebuilt.

The serial number is just in front of the tang, behind where the bolt opens. See
http://images.gunsinternational.com...-COVER-BOOK_100708484_30_C***6D4024778A89.jpg

There are used copies of the book (for $12) that will explain everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/188239139X/?tag=civilwartalkc-20
 

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