Revolving rifles.

I usually use 30 grains in my .44's and 25 in my 36's so perhaps I never experienced this kind of blow back myself.
 
a while back I was wondering about how much of a seal the balls would make. I loaded a few without powder, the removed the nipples and drove them out. I was surprised that while only a small ring of lead was shaved off, there was actually a rather large flat surface where the ball contacted the cylinder. I had not thought about this before, but the soft lead would deform until it could not be compressed any more, then the thin ring would be shaved off. after seeing this, I an convinced that chain fire would be very unlikely from sparks caused by firing. Plus, any sparks would be propelled away from the cylinder. I think that a chain fire would be more likely from the caps being set off from the recoil. I know I have a very hard time finding caps that fit well for my repro revolver, and it frequently will jam if I can't find a brand that fits well. during the war, I'm sure it was hard enough just to get caps for the revolvers, any you would have to use whatever you had regardless of how well they fit. I'll admit I have always grease the chambers, but now I think that it is really more of an issue of providing lubrication for the ball.
 
I personally believe a lot of people equate re-enactors firing blanks as the real thing, including some of the re-enactors. There is a major difference between blanks and live rounds, again something too many re-enactors fail to understand.

Revolver or revolving rifle w/ live rounds, the bullet blocks the powder from a spark from the barell side and the cap blocks the powder from spark from the nipple side.

Revolver or reolving rifle firing blanks there is no bullet to block the powder from a spark from the barell side only some Malt o Meal or a bit of wonder wad and many a yahoo double of triple loads their arm for a more satisfying bang. Still minimal issue w/ the nipple side. The difference between live fire and blank fire is significant.
 

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