Question about a prolonge

DaveC2

Cadet
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
I am rebuilding a full size cannon I built when I was in high school 50 years ago and trying to make it more historically accurate. I'm looking for an accurate drawing of a prolonge and I am not having much luck so far. I was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction. Also, I am looking for some photos and / or drawings on how the worm was attached to the ear plate for transport and how the rammer and sponge were carried and held by the sponge and rammer chain when stowed. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Being a builder of cannon myself below are some photos and drawing that will help answer your questions. When it comes to the prolonge the length is critical for the size gun and spread of the hooks. What type gun are you building?
1650119731157.png

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field gun -3.JPG
field gun.JPG
field gun-1.JPG
field gun-2.JPG
field gun-4.JPG
 
UCVRelics,

Thanks so much for the pictures. Here are a couple of pictures of the gun I built in 1970. At the ripe old age of 17, I had very few resources and tools.... and even less knowledge of what I was doing. It is a long story on how I ended up building this cannon, but let it suffice to say that I only had a few encyclopedia pictures to scale dimensions from and to see how I thought the carriage was assembled. In addition, the iron barrel is a light 6 pounder cast and bored (to 2.75") by Barney's Cannons (Now South Bend Replicas)...not exactly correct for a Civil War gun but my original intent was to build a sea carriage for the barrel. At any rate, I ended up with a barrel and had to make a decision about the carriage.

Looking at the pictures I had of all the required "irons" turned out to be an eye opener. It became immediately apparent that I was going to have to make some compromises on the authenticity of what I was building. All of the original irons were either cast or forged and were well beyond my capability to manufacture. With no equipment except access to a cutting torch, a Wildcat grinder, hand drills, hack saws, a really old Lincoln stick welder, and a sledge hammer, I started making all the iron parts for the carriage as close to being historically accurate as I could. I didn't even have access to an anvil, but there was a manhole cover in the street in front of my childhood home. If an iron part needed to be pounded into shape, I would heat it in a mud forge I built in an old wheel barrel (to make it portable). With the forge set up it up in the front yard, and watching for traffic, I would take the hot iron out to the street and, using the manhole cover as an anvil, would pound the daylights out of it until it needed to go back into the fire for a reheat.....or until a car came along and forced me to stop for traffic.

One thing led to another and I ended up with basically a No 1 gun carriage with a lot of compromises on what I was able to do at 17. So now I would like to correct as many of those incorrect things as possible.....Don't ask me why after 50 years I have to do this now, but there are some issues with the gun that have bothered me for 50 years and if I don't get to correcting them now....well.....I don't need to explain any of that. Here is the gun as it exists today:

Cannon Shoot 1.jpg

Cannon Shoot 3.jpg


I have just sent the barrel back to South Bend Replicas to be lined with a DOM steel liner and have nearly finished re-making the trail plate / lunette with the correct pointing rings. I am also hammering out a correct stop chain. The "prolonge" in the photo is just 25 feet of 1 inch manila rope with an eye spliced on each end that I would like to replace with a correct version. So in asking questions on the internet, I ended up here where I believe I will find all the details I need.

Thanks again for the pictures and drawing....

DaveC2
 
Last edited:
Nice looking gun. You can buy the correct prolong which is the one I posted above for $175.
 
I use to but he got where a lot was out of stock or he didin't have what I needed and he doesn't take CC :cold:
:nah disagree:
 

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