Prolonge & Tarp Questions

Thanks- it's great to be a member. The field piece is done (except for the prolonge puzzle) and the limber is about finished. I realize this isn't a forum for models so I'll keep any pics to a minimum.

Please don't underestimate our interest. While I'm not a model builder I have found a lot of interesting information from this thread. You never know where a knowledgeable discussion will lead. Perhaps some of us non-modelers will give it a try.
 
Here's my 1/16 scale 3 inch Ordnance Rifle with the wrapping of the prolonge rope still unresolved. The toggle pulled off while I was trying different wraps; the ring is hooked to one of the rope catches and buried under the rope wraps. Shown also is the limber box part of the limber I'm still working on. . The cover is closed with the kit; I scratchbuilt the interior. Its supposed to be stocked with Hotchkiss shot and shells. I couldn't find any info on how the separate powder bags for the rifled guns were stored in the box so I'm showing the bags on top of the shells. Still need to add some fuse boxes, tools, etc. in the tray. There isn't an actual Olive colored hobby paint out there that I know of that exactly matched the ordnance regs so I used a close match consisting of modern US Army forest green. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

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Looks great , especially the limber box . Will have to dig out my battery wagon kit and give it a go .
 
Thanks- I'll look forward to seeing it. I think I've only ever seen one of these in the field. There is a CS artillery living history group that occasionally sets up in Pitzers Woods at Gettysburg that has one and a forge. I can't remember the unit name though. When I get the limber done, I want to weather them with some dust and spattered mud and mount them on a diorama display. The problem I'm wrestling with is putting the limber at the reg distance behind the piece leaves a lot of dead space. So now I'm thinking about maybe adding a horse team which would be a stretch cause I know next to nothing about the harnesses, buckles, etc. And then add a crew but I'm not real comfortable doing figures yet. Sometimes its a sickness model builders have.
 
Please don't underestimate our interest. While I'm not a model builder I have found a lot of interesting information from this thread. You never know where a knowledgeable discussion will lead. Perhaps some of us non-modelers will give it a try.
Thanks for the encouragement. That's why I joined was to tap into the reservoir of knowledge out there.
 
Thanks- I'll look forward to seeing it. I think I've only ever seen one of these in the field. There is a CS artillery living history group that occasionally sets up in Pitzers Woods at Gettysburg that has one and a forge. I can't remember the unit name though. When I get the limber done, I want to weather them with some dust and spattered mud and mount them on a diorama display. The problem I'm wrestling with is putting the limber at the reg distance behind the piece leaves a lot of dead space. So now I'm thinking about maybe adding a horse team which would be a stretch cause I know next to nothing about the harnesses, buckles, etc. And then add a crew but I'm not real comfortable doing figures yet. Sometimes its a sickness model builders have.
I saw one several years ago at a Civil War event at Greenfield Village in Dearborn , Michigan . My GG uncle George Veitengruber (Frankenmuth , Mi ) was a farrier in the 4th Michigan Cavalry . I am a figure painter . Doing the horses and harness would take some work . Miniart makes a 1/16 horse that could be converted . Doing the figures would take a lot of conversion .Believe me I understand . I have enough projects to last a couple of lifetimes .
 
Spoken like a true modeler. I bet that like me you have a closet full of projects. I'm normally a 20th Century plane & armor modeler but I've always loved CW Artillery. I did a long stint re-enacting and living history with a full scale 10 pdr Parrott. And I've been wanting to do a CW model. But these particular kits that we have are the only game in town- not like say Tiger tanks where there are a bazillion variants and a hundred companies all trying to outdo each other with details. So I finally bought the 3 Inch Ordnance. Like you mentioned, the barrels on the others just didn't look quite right. The Parrott reinforcement band is oversize. The 3 inch seemed the closest. Still, it isn't perfect either. Good luck with your build and share it when you get 'er done.
 
This is an old thread and the OP may not ever see the replies, but this is a great build of this model kit.

It looks like you made some modifications to the kit. How did you make the spike swivel in the deployed or up position? The part is molded in the down position of course. The 1/1 spike swivel has a hinge on it so it folds.

Thanks in advance.

Here's my 1/16 scale 3 inch Ordnance Rifle with the wrapping of the prolonge rope still unresolved. The toggle pulled off while I was trying different wraps; the ring is hooked to one of the rope catches and buried under the rope wraps. Shown also is the limber box part of the limber I'm still working on. . The cover is closed with the kit; I scratchbuilt the interior. Its supposed to be stocked with Hotchkiss shot and shells. I couldn't find any info on how the separate powder bags for the rifled guns were stored in the box so I'm showing the bags on top of the shells. Still need to add some fuse boxes, tools, etc. in the tray. There isn't an actual Olive colored hobby paint out there that I know of that exactly matched the ordnance regs so I used a close match consisting of modern US Army forest green. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks



View attachment 259830
 
1. How exactly is the Prolonge rope wrapped on the gun? Everything I've seen has it wrapped in a figure 8. The Artillerists Manual only says "wound". But on one end is a tow ring and on the other is a toggle. So what is the technique to wrap the rope to secure these so they aren't dangling loose? Admittedly, I've never paid that close to that and nothing online shows it.

I am surprised the forum could not answer your question about how exactly the prolonge was wrapped on the cleats. I am pretty convinced it is wound in a figure 8 but aside from that, nothing.

I have collected a few photos that may show how it was done so as not to come undone or uncoiled while the gun was in transit.

1. The first pic does not show much detail except one end of the prolonge is hooked to the lower cleat and the other end is wrapped tight underneath somewhere, perhaps on the other cleat at top.

2. The second pic though seems to be the best at showing how to secure the prolonge onto the cleats using nothing but itself. It shows both ends of the prolonge meeting in the middle, between the two cleats. One end is fastened using the "T" end inserted into the "O" ring of the other end and they connect over the top of the coil.

Of course in the 1/1 world this would depend on there being the proper regulation length of prolonge rope and whether or not there was just enough to be consistently wound in this manner and whether or not both ends would meet in the middle perfectly. I am fairly certain you could modify the length of the rope (shorter or longer) on your model to fit just right without it looking incorrect.

I am adding a photo of a presumed original prolonge for a Napoleon cannon. It is dark because it has been tarred.

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