On Fabrics

grace

Sergeant
Joined
May 5, 2018
Location
Crossroads of America
Dear ladies,

What wool fabrics are suitable for a best dress for

  • A doctor's daughter
  • An only child living with her father
  • Fairly well off, but considered rather odd as they value books and education--she was going to college, but the war happened
  • Is not terribly fashion conscious
  • Would mostly wear it to church, dinners out, and maybe two balls in as many years. :wink:
For further reference, here's what I want to make and the fabric I want to make it out of. However, this fabric is "flannel wool suiting." It's light, very soft, has a slight sheen and a lovely drape...
...but someone said that wool flannel was never used in dresses.

Thoughts? I'd really appreciate any input as I'm in a bit of a time crunch. The fabric type is really bugging me!

Thank you all so much!
 

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I don't quite understand why someone might have told you that. Wool flannel cloth was widely used for winter, and still is today.

I found this for you:
On page 175, “broadcloth” is defined as “fine, stout, smooth-faced wool cloth, felted or given a nap finish to avoid raveling, much used for men’s clothes.” On page 176, “Georgian cloth” is defined as “light-weight broadcloth, first popular in 1806.” Also on page 176, “ladies’ cloth” is defined as “a light-weight broadcloth used for dresses.”

On page 180, “wool” is defined as “fabric made from the fleece of sheep, woven in many different styles, has warmth and elasticity.” On page 181, “worsted” is defined as “wool fabric made of well-twisted yarn of long-staple wool, combed to lay the fibers parallel.” https://bygoneglamour.wordpress.com/2011/04/23/glossary-wool-flannel-and-fulled-wools/
 
For modern wool fabrics, pick tropical weight wool. "Tropical weight wool suiting" (modern description) would work fine. Be sure it's 100% wool, though--so many are part synthetic! Wool flannel would be used primarily for winter petticoats, jackets, and shawls, definitely not for dresses--it's too heavy. However, a modern wool suitable for suiting, as long as it's lightweight, should be fine regardless of the "flannel" description. If you're ordering via the internet, get a sample swatch first. It's hard to rely on descriptions, especially since they have changed since the 19th century.

Avoid pinstripes. anything that resembles houndstooth checks, and glen plaids, which aren't "period." The one you picked looks fine, if the fabric is lightweight and has a smooth finish.

Back in the day, there were lots of lovely prints in wool which unfortunately are not available today.

Unlike with cotton, a solid color wool is fine--no problem with fading in spots as period cotton did! If you like solid colors, wool is the way to go.

Nearly all dress bodices were lined back in the day, and you certainly want to do this with wool!
 
And to add to the excellent advice by Mary Dee...if you get a swatch, how do you know it's 100% wool? (Buyer beware!) Take a small jar and fill it with chlorine bleach. Cut a small square with pinking shears--2x2 should do. Place the wool in the jar and secure the lid. Shake well and leave it. If it's pretty much dissolved and no obvious colorless threads remain after 24 hours, you're good. Natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool and mohair) dissolve in bleach--mohair will be gone in about 8 hours. LOL...that good ol' polyester double knit from the 70's won't even change color. I kept a swatch from some navy riding pants in a jar for years and it never faded. I suspect it's still in a box somewhere....:D
 
And to add to the excellent advice by Mary Dee...if you get a swatch, how do you know it's 100% wool? (Buyer beware!) Take a small jar and fill it with chlorine bleach. Cut a small square with pinking shears--2x2 should do. Place the wool in the jar and secure the lid. Shake well and leave it. If it's pretty much dissolved and no obvious colorless threads remain after 24 hours, you're good. Natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool and mohair) dissolve in bleach--mohair will be gone in about 8 hours. LOL...that good ol' polyester double knit from the 70's won't even change color. I kept a swatch from some navy riding pants in a jar for years and it never faded. I suspect it's still in a box somewhere....:D
We used this test for some very nice navy wool I bought at the local hospital thrift shop.(Gone now, boo!) it’s wool alright!
 
Dear ladies,

What wool fabrics are suitable for a best dress for

  • A doctor's daughter
  • An only child living with her father
  • Fairly well off, but considered rather odd as they value books and education--she was going to college, but the war happened
  • Is not terribly fashion conscious
  • Would mostly wear it to church, dinners out, and maybe two balls in as many years. :wink:
For further reference, here's what I want to make and the fabric I want to make it out of. However, this fabric is "flannel wool suiting." It's light, very soft, has a slight sheen and a lovely drape...
...but someone said that wool flannel was never used in dresses.

Thoughts? I'd really appreciate any input as I'm in a bit of a time crunch. The fabric type is really bugging me!

Thank you all so much!
Can’t wait to see it made up!
 
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