Knit sack coats

[major bill]

It is recorded that during the Civil War the Union purchased over 5 million sack coats. About one in 10 of these, or 530,144 were knit. Although knit sack coats are seen in period photo, one rarly sees reenactors wearing them.

 

[Package4]

It is recorded that during the Civil War the Union purchased over 5 million sack coats. About one in 10 of these, or 530,144 were knit. Although knit sack coats are seen in period photo, one rarly sees reenactors wearing them.

Are you positive of the number of knit sacks, my references show only one contract for 20,000 to Hunt, Tilinghast & Co in October 1862; they did supply other knit articles, drawers, shirts and uniform jackets, that would amount to 530,144.

 

[major bill]

No not positive I used the numbers by Philip Katcher in his book Brassy's Almanac American Civil War page 231. I am not sure Katcher did n in death study, but he foot ne it as from Official Records ,Series III, Vol. 5.

I was my hope that a post about knit sack coats would generate more discussion about them. We do have some very knowledgeable people on the forum.

 

[Package4]

No not positive I used the numbers by Philip Katcher in his book Brassy's Almanac American Civil War page 231. I am not sure Katcher did n in death study, but he foot ne it as from Official Records ,Series III, Vol. 5.

I was my hope that a post about knit sack coats would generate more discussion about them. We do have some very knowledgeable people on the forum.

I'll look that up, no knit sack coats survive, to my knowledge, though there are pictures, clearly showing that they were issued. A heavily worn sack may almost look knitted, in period pictures, due to the heavy twill weave.

I am fairly certain that the extent of the knit coats was the original order for 20,000, this in itself went contrary to the Quartermaster specifications, but then again they were accepting orders for ready made goods without contracts, they were so desperate to clothe the army.

I'll try and find the reference in the OR and report back, if it deals with cloth, I am intrigued!

 

[Package4]

I looked up in the OR and see that there were arsenal returns for all clothing. The problem seems to be that the same number of knit sacks seem to be in the arsenals at the end of each accounting. Adding up those numbers comes close to Katcher's. Evidence seems to indicate that the knit sacks were still in inventory for multiple returns and Katcher added up the returns.

Have not completely confirmed, still working it.

 

[major bill]

I looked up in the OR and see that there were arsenal returns for all clothing. The problem seems to be that the same number of knit sacks seem to be in the arsenals at the end of each accounting. Adding up those numbers comes close to Katcher's. Evidence seems to indicate that the knit sacks were still in inventory for multiple returns and Katcher added up the returns.

Have not completely confirmed, still working it.

Based on the low number of photos of knit sack coats, a half million of them seemed high to me. It would seem like if a half million of them were made they would appear more in photos, that is unless they look like standard sack costs in the images. Also at a half million it would seem like some would have survived and turn up in collections.

 

[Package4]

Based on the low number of photos of knit sack coats, a half million of them seemed high to me. It would seem like if a half million of them were made they would appear more in photos, that is unless they look like standard sack costs in the images. Also at a half million it would seem like some would have survived and turn up in collections.

As I said, I think Katcher added up all of the returns, even if the returns were the exact same number of the previous (meaning they were not issued and remained in inventory)

 

[BTWhite61]

Here are two images from my collection that show knit fatigue blouses.

The first shows an unidentified soldier in slouch hat. His knit blouse differs from the vast majority I have observed in photos in that it appears to be sewn together like a typical regulation blouse cut from woven flannel and made without edge binding.

The second image is an unidentified man wearing the most common style of knit blouse with edge binding of woven tape. I have never been able to determine the color of the tape but it ranges from very light to black in other original photos. If I had to venture a guess I would say light blue or tan.

There are many more images of knit blouses (and shirts) that I have collected for my research files that include maybe a dozen more examples being worn in the field for nearly the entire duration of the war. The earliest knit blouses I'm aware of were worn by the 7th New York State Militia as fatigue uniforms. The most common appear to have been gray or "drab" and utilized as Army hospital garments throughout the north. The latest-war examples I've spotted appear in photos taken at Aquia Creek Landing and Petersburg in 1863 and 1864. Beyond the photographic evidence, there is sometimes mention of knit blouses in original accounts or memoirs. Now and then an original quartermaster document will also show them being requested, for example several going to a company in one of the Pennsylvania Reserve regiments prior to the Antietam campaign. One battery of "emergency artillery" raised in Pennsylvania in the summer of 1863 was also issued knit blouses. Since I'm a Berdan's Sharpshooters researcher and collector, imagine my surprise when I saw entries for "knit blouses" being issued in Co. F 1st USSS, these appearing in a company clothing book dating to between Dec. 1862 and August 1863.

A word on how they were likely made. From what I have seen in many other photos the "rib" ran lengthwise much like the warp in woven cloth. The body and sleeves were likely "knitted in the round" (basically a tube, without selvedge) at two different widths. The blouse bodies would have been cut to length, a neckline/gorge cut from the top, the shoulder edges possibly shaped by cutting and then seamed, with armholes cut out of the round-knit material and the sleeves sewn in place. The front would have been slashed open, a one-piece collar sewn into the gorge, and a woven cloth facing hand sewn inside the front to help reinforce the buttonhole stitching and buttons and stabilize the front. All edges at this point would have been raw which is likely why the majority were bound with hand or machine sewn woven tape. The woven tape would also provide stability and decrease the amount of stretch where it was sewn to the knit fabric. Over the years I have developed several sources for the proper 2x2 rib-knit wool for these blouses, as well as two workable patterns and a few prototypes, but had some problems with the knitting mills staying in business. Sadly, the project is dead in the water.

 

[Western Reserve Volunteer]

I've never heard of these before, but they are fascinating!

Would the fabric have been something like this?: https://naturesfabrics.com/products/charcoal-heather-wool-rib-knit