How we Dressed during the War

Championhilz

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Clinton, Mississippi
I found the following article in The Yazoo City Herald (Yazoo, Mississippi,) May 27, 1887. It was written by Rose W. Fry of Lewisburg, West Virginia, who was born in 1847. She never married, but after the war became a rather prominent writer, and had articles published in newspapers nationwide. The brother she mentions in the article was John J. Fry, who was a private in Company G, 27th Virginia Infantry. I only transcribed parts of the article, as it was very long:

At the beginning of the late Civil War almost every one who moved in a respectable circle in social life had a decent stock of individual clothing on hand. But as the four long years of conflict dragged themselves along, this stock became sadly and perceptibly diminished.


Fortunately we had cotton and wool in the raw, and factories for their manufacture into woolen and cotton cloth sprang up at every available point. Very much of their produce, however, was necessarily reserved for the uses of the army.


The family to which I belonged was a family of refugees, and the first consideration as winter drew on was how to keep warm. Comforters made of coarse calico or old silk dresses and lined with raw cotton were our first achievement.


Shoes came next on the list. Fortunately there was a tannery in the village, and by paying down hard money we were duly shod in stout calf-skin. Later on sheep-skin and alligator skin were pressed into service. At home we wore cloth shoes or crocheted slippers, fastened on to the soles of discarded shoes.


Fancy the amount of cotton cloth necessary to cover the nakedness of a household of eight females, three males and several servants. At first we had to resort to the linen sheeting of happier days! Later on we were glad to obtain unbleached muslin, no matter how inferior the quality.


As the war went on, prices advanced frightfully, owing to the scarcity of goods and the depreciation of the currency.


Very early in the struggle the shadow fell. A brother, the eldest born, lay with the unsheeted dead at Manassas. My first mourning was very simple – a dyed merino, a black dotted calico, a black ribbon round my white child's hat, voila tout.


I went through the war on four calico dresses and when I close my eyes I can see those calicoes yet. They were all polka-dotted, and ranged from 45 cents a yard all the way up to $10. As our exigencies increased two dresses were merged into one. Prior to the war, a twin sister and myself had always dressed exactly alike. We now exchanged, and out of two half-worn dresses evolved one whole garment.


Garibaldi waists were very popular. They were made out of silk, cloth, velvet or muslin, and worn with any kind of skirt, bright or dark as might be. I remember a black velvet jacket, cut from a mantle, which was worn by five girls in turn, and did service on many trying occasions. It figured on horseback, in the parlor, at state receptions – in short everywhere.


But alas for the prospective bride in war time. To amass a trousseau was a matter of almost super human effort. A friend who married in the winter of '62 was made happy by the gift of her mother's store of table and bed linen. These were duly converted into underwear, finished off with hand embroidery, a mauve velvet, and brown silk shot with gold, procured in Richmond, completed her outfit.
 
So sorry to have missed this until now, such an excellent article, thank you! She is terrific, filling in quite a few blanks. It had to have been dreadful and dreadfully worrying, what in blazes to wear. It's a treasure, something like this from the South, during the war.

I'm not a reenactor, guessing this is exactly the kind of word picture they would find valuable?

lady girabaldi.jpg

ribaldi waists were very popular. They were made out of silk, cloth, velvet or muslin, and worn with any kind of skirt, bright or dark as might be. I remember a black velvet jacket, cut from a mantle, which was worn by five girls in turn, and did service on many trying occasions. It figured on horseback, in the parlor, at state receptions – in short everywhere.


The blouse is a ' waist '. And wow, with women's clothing taking so much fabric you sure can see where they ran into trouble quickly. No synthetic blends, either ( which I detest ), making clothing wear longer- cotton, wool or silk- all wear poorly. OH linen, as in the bride's under garments!
 
@MaryDee , @Anna Elizabeth Henry , if either of you have the time, one day may we ask for a thread, please, on what-is-what? As in ' waist '. If someone shoved me into 1863 and said ' Go get dressed ', I'd be arrested for indecency. No idea what to ask for- then where in blazes to put it. We have others here who know, too, maybe one of you could pick on them, like I just picked on you. :angel:
 
@MaryDee , @Anna Elizabeth Henry , if either of you have the time, one day may we ask for a thread, please, on what-is-what? As in ' waist '. If someone shoved me into 1863 and said ' Go get dressed ', I'd be arrested for indecency. No idea what to ask for- then where in blazes to put it. We have others here who know, too, maybe one of you could pick on them, like I just picked on you. :angel:

I'm no expert, just someone who has spent WAY too much time reading about the clothing and styles of the era. While I know more than the average person about Victorian fashion, I know some folks on CWT know far more about the little nuances of fashion that can date a photograph to almost the year it was take!

Well a 'waist' was a term either for what we would consider a blouse today or could even mean the bodice of dress in the 19th century. You often hear the term shirtwaist used too which was a very tailored shirt/blouse worn more in the late Victorian era and early Edwardian era.

I don't have my handy-dandy volume on Victorian fashion available at the moment since I'm at work. As to what ladies wore, it was quite a process during the era especially among the wealthier classes. Lots more undergarments than today, and depending on what your daily life was like depended how often you changed. If a lady went riding some days that required the riding habit, then there was an afternoon dress, outfits for dinner, and of course ball gowns! Obviously your average woman didn't change clothes all day long. More ladies of middle class backgrounds spent their time in dresses like these in this colorized CW era photo. The dresses appear to be good quality calico with minimal amounts of fuss and frills and hop-less.

As to what's indecent, well consider modesty to be your friend in the 1860's. If you caught even a couple episodes of Mercy Street, most times your arms were completely covered, except perhaps when doing chores, when you could roll them up. You'd also notice the ladies are also buttoned all the way up to their necks until after dark when at dance/ball/dinner. Oh, and keep your hem to the ground - no ankles, quite risky! :wink:

92c629ce2b87785299f56ffdd357c99a.jpg
 

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