Frozen ring on Confederate bayonet

[OldSarge79]

I managed to get a Confederate inventory numbered bayonet last week, which, unfortunately, has a frozen (rusted) locking ring. I've tried penetrating oil for several days and jarring it loose but no luck. Needless to say, I don't know how bad the corrosion underneath might be.

Other than putting some vise grip pliers on the screw head and trying to loosen it or cutting the screw in the center with a Dremel and prying the two ends of the ring apart, both of which would damage the screw, I'm at a loss as to what else I could try.
Does anyone have a reasonable suggestion?

 

[JOHN42768]

I'd let it soak for a long long time. It took a lot of years to get it the way it is, don't want to mess it up.

 

[bayonet]

Maybe next up a white vinegar bath for several days maybe?

 

[Obi1gr]

I wouldn't worry about getting the ring free. Won't make much of a difference. I'd personally leave it as is. Hard to find early A suffix bayonet!

 

[JackADriscoll]

Yeah I think I'd just keep it clean and leave it as is

 

[Old Soldier]

Two options: Leave it as it is or try 'restoration' and risk lowering it's worth considerably. I would recomment the former.

If the option is renovation, put the socket in a citric acid solution (4-12 hours only - far less smelly than white vinegar) to remove rust which is probably the cause of the problem. Do not try to use a hammer to get it to move. Wirebrush when finished.

However, I will repeat, a 2nd Contract, 2nd Batch bayonet is a rare item. It is really display only. Oil and care for it.

 

[OldSarge79]

I wouldn't worry about getting the ring free. Won't make much of a difference. I'd personally leave it as is. Hard to find early A suffix bayonet!

I think I'd just keep it clean and leave it as is

Doing nothing is certainly an attractive idea. If I could free it up without damage, though, it's worth the effort.

I just heard from Paul Johnson. He said he immerses them in a tub of WD-40 for several days and tries to jar it loose with a rubber mallet. Maybe, like @Old Soldier said, a citric acid solution might work.

I very much appreciate the suggestions! Will give one or two a try and let you know how it goes.

 

[tmorr]

If you submerge it in WD40, Kroil or other penetrating oils, I would suggest you submerge the entire bayonet to avoid a "line" where the oil stops.

Why…? I soaked a revolver cylinder to loosen some stuck/frozen nipples for a couple days but didn't submerge the entire piece. It came out with what what I would describe as a "bath line" that was a devil to even out by soaking only the other portion.

 

[JOHN42768]

If you submerge it in WD40, Kroil or other penetrating oils, I would suggest you submerge the entire bayonet to avoid a "line" where the oil stops.

Why…? I soaked a revolver cylinder to loosen some stuck/frozen nipples for a couple days but didn't submerge the entire piece. It came out with what what I would describe as a "bath line" that was a devil to even out by soaking only the other portion.

Makes since. Don't want to leave a so called ring around the bathtub

 

[OldSarge79]

If you submerge it in WD40, Kroil or other penetrating oils, I would suggest you submerge the entire bayonet to avoid a "line" where the oil stops.

Why…? I soaked a revolver cylinder to loosen some stuck/frozen nipples for a couple days but didn't submerge the entire piece. It came out with what what I would describe as a "bath line" that was a devil to even out by soaking only the other portion.

That sounds like good advice.

Years ago, whenever I had a new deputy come on my squad, I would sit them down and have a Father-son talk. One of my favorite lines was, "A wise man learns from his mistakes but a wiser man learns from the mistakes of others."

I think I will choose to learn from your mistake and invest in more WD-40 and find a larger tub.

 

[bayonet]

Two options: Leave it as it is or try 'restoration' and risk lowering it's worth considerably. I would recomment the former.

If the option is renovation, put the socket in a citric acid solution (4-12 hours only - far less smelly than white vinegar) to remove rust which is probably the cause of the problem. Do not try to use a hammer to get it to move. Wirebrush when finished.

However, I will repeat, a 2nd Contract, 2nd Batch bayonet is a rare item. It is really display only. Oil and care for it.

Wait I thought you Brits loved everything cleaned up, polished, and looking original. Where as us Americans love to leave the Patina on. If he plans on mounting it on a ACW Enfield then one must get that locking ring unfrozen. Hopefully that's the case. Every ACW & Rev War musket on my wall has a bayonet fixed. Why have an English Muffin without the butter and jelly! I don't see lowering the value by cleaning it up "alittle" and getting that ring unfrozen. Folks will pay $ either way to get their hands on that particular item. Or just send it to me in a trade with the bayonet I have mounted on my ACW Enfield and let me worry about fixing the frozen ring. That way you avoid the stress of this situation!

 

[Old Soldier]

Wait I thought you Brits loved everything cleaned up, polished, and looking original. Where as us Americans love to leave the Patina on. If he plans on mounting it on a ACW Enfield then one must get that locking ring unfrozen. Hopefully that's the case. Every ACW & Rev War musket on my wall has a bayonet fixed. Why have an English Muffin without the butter and jelly! I don't see lowering the value by cleaning it up "alittle" and getting that ring unfrozen. Folks will pay $ either way to get their hands on that particular item. Or just send it to me in a trade with the bayonet I have mounted on my ACW Enfield and let me worry about fixing the frozen ring. That way you avoid the stress of this situation!

However, I will repeat, a 2nd Contract, 2nd Batch bayonet is a rare item. It is really display only. Oil and care for it.

You thought wrong. I am not stressed. it isn't mine.

 

[bayonet]

However, I will repeat, a 2nd Contract, 2nd Batch bayonet is a rare item. It is really display only. Oil and care for it.

You thought wrong. I am not stressed. it isn't mine.

Misinterpretation, I know it's not yours. That part was meant for Old Sarge or fellow Sarge. But if you and others do come across items of this nature and you just can't decide to leave it or restore it for the stress is just too much to bear. Send it my way and I'll relieve you of the burden and make life so much easier on you. Heck I'll cover shipping or you can drop it off to me and also hug my Puppy
Puppies just great stress relievers!

 

[Old Soldier]

Misinterpretation, I know it's not yours. That part was meant for Old Sarge or fellow Sarge. But if you and others do come across items of this nature and you just can't decide to leave it or restore it for the stress is just too much to bear. Send it my way and I'll relieve you of the burden and make life so much easier on you. Heck I'll cover shipping or you can drop it off to me and also hug my Puppy
Puppies just great stress relievers!

The only guns and bayonets I do up are the cheap ones. I cannot afford anything good so I practice my skills on the ones that are cheap and don't matter so much. Most of them were never ' polished, and looking original' in service. As for 'patina', that usually refers to the state of the original finish now. That bayonet had no 'patina' , just corrosion. THAT isn't 'patina' - it is RUST.

 

[JoeCollector]

Kroil for rusted parts works best for me.

 

[OldSarge79]

SUCCESS!
Three days in a tub of WD 40 and judicious use of a rubber mallet did the job. It now moves freely and the best part, no damage.
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. I have learned something useful and I hope others can benefit from this as well.