Finished Project (with multiple sins attached)

[SethJ]

Greetings!

I finished a Sack Coat.

One too small for me.

One that had many sins committed to it.

I machine sewed, a lot of it...

I used a no-gloss white cotton thread on a Brother sewing machine... It's an outrageous sin, I understand... But iI got this kit about 6-7 months ago and kept procrastinating... I finished the sleeves, and the collar by hand... but, got bored and put it away for "a while".
2 days ago, I pulled it out from below my desk, and decided I was going to use the machine to finish what I was too lazy to do. Sure enough, what on my first coat took me 3 weeks to complete, I got it done in maybe 10 hours.

My only saving grace is the sleeves, collar, and lining were all hand sewn in... which, was done with the same white thread.

Speaking of the hands-on button holes... Well, I am not the best at sewing them. While they work, they are a bit of a mess. Frankly, they're still better than my first coat.

Unfortunately, it's too small for my roundish figure. So, I'm going to have to sell it. While that started out as my main purpose, I wanted to keep it when it started turning out decent... but, it's no biggie. I will say, this is the first W&W kit that's collar actually folds over.

I don't know if it's worth 200 dollars.. I mean, CC sutlery sells a much lesser product for only 30 less (not including their shipping ).
Really, I don't plan to reinvest in another coat. Maybe I'll spend 50 and get some fabric scraps and leather visors for caps. Other than that, more savings for me.

Lord forgive me for the coat I have created.
-Seth

 

[captaindrew]

Machine sewing isn't a sin, especially with Federal stuff, but the bright white thread is, kinda kills it. Other than that it's not a bad coat.

 

[SethJ]

Machine sewing isn't a sin, especially with Federal stuff, but the bright white thread is, kinda kills it. Other than that it's not a bad coat.

What color thread would you recommend should I do this again? Black? Blue? Inconspicuous dark purple?
(That last one is purely a joke, though I am curious.)

 

[HatEnjoyer]

What color thread would you recommend should I do this again? Black? Blue? Inconspicuous dark purple?
(That last one is purely a joke, though I am curious.)

I'd say any dark blue thread should be fine, though it wouldn't hurt to try and match the thread with the fabric. In my sewing experience Black topstitching is usually only suitable with very dark blue, like Navy Blue.

 

[captaindrew]

What color thread would you recommend should I do this again? Black? Blue? Inconspicuous dark purple?
(That last one is purely a joke, though I am curious.)

Here's a couple photos of my contract blouse from W&W, it's machine sewn by the way with the exception of the buttonholes. Looks like a grayish color they used. It certainly doesn't stand out, from a few few away you can't see it at all.

 

[captaindrew]

May have been a light blue even when new, hard to tell exactly, hat coat has seen some hard use.

 

[SethJ]

Here's a couple photos of my contract blouse from W&W, it's machine sewn by the way with the exception of the buttonholes. Looks like a grayish color they used. It certainly doesn't stand out, from a few few away you can't see it at all. View attachment 522647View attachment 522648

Wow... I always though it was an outrageous sin to machine sew a uniform... With this knowledge, maybe I will reinvest. Excellent looking coat by the way!
I'm hard pressed to find unglossed thread without spending upwards of 70-80 dollars... Perhaps I'll do some looking around.
Thank you for the input Captain, you seem to always have the right answer when it's needed.

 

[captaindrew]

Wow... I always though it was an outrageous sin to machine sew a uniform... With this knowledge, maybe I will reinvest. Excellent looking coat by the way!
I'm hard pressed to find unglossed thread without spending upwards of 70-80 dollars... Perhaps I'll do some looking around.
Thank you for the input Captain, you seem to always have the right answer when it's needed.

Machine sewing was not uncommon for Federal contract clothing. There's even a couple Confederate original machine sewn jackets. Always hand sew the buttonholes though, the machines of the day couldn't do the buttonholes. I'm surprised the kit didn't come with thread. Now that I remember I believe W&W sells thread, it's pricey but if you're making a lot of stuff it's worth it. Can use it on your caps too.

 

[SethJ]

Machine sewing was not uncommon for Federal contract clothing. There's even a couple Confederate original machine sewn jackets. Always hand sew the buttonholes though, the machines of the day couldn't do the buttonholes. I'm surprised the kit didn't come with thread. Now that I remember I believe W&W sells thread, it's pricey but if you're making a lot of stuff it's worth it. Can use it on your caps too.

I've considered it... "but the price! The price!"
It did come with thread... but I personally can't stand the way they send it (though I understand why they do). While trying to put it on a spool it got a little... knotted up.
Also, interesting to hear about the Confederate clothing as well... interesting...

 

[thomas aagaard]

I did the same with mine. After having it in a box for about two years I got my other to help and she did some of it on machine and I did the rest by hand.



Done by machine (save the ends of the sleeves)

pocket, buttonholes and more details done by hand. (using the thread that came with the kit)

 

[SethJ]

I did the same with mine. After having it in a box for about two years I got my other to help and she did some of it on machine and I did the rest by hand.



Done by machine (save the ends of the sleeves)
View attachment 522657

pocket, buttonholes and more details done by hand. (using the thread that came with the kit)
View attachment 522656

Very lovely Indeed!

 

[RedRover]

Wow... I always though it was an outrageous sin to machine sew a uniform... With this knowledge, maybe I will reinvest. Excellent looking coat by the way!
I'm hard pressed to find unglossed thread without spending upwards of 70-80 dollars... Perhaps I'll do some looking around.
Thank you for the input Captain, you seem to always have the right answer when it's needed.

Try cotton quilting thread perhaps. Mettler sells it in small spools. with a "silk" finish that makes it a bit easier for hand sewing (rather than hand waxing it):

ca. 30 Weight for heavy wool

Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Blue Shadow #0311

Shop Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Thread in Blue Shadow #0311. Premium German thread. 150m spool.

redrockthreads.com

Slightly lighter, 40 weight... for slightly lighter work.

Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Blue Shadow #0311

Shop Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Thread in Blue Shadow #0311. Premium German thread. 150m spool.

redrockthreads.com

You'll have to experiment some with your own machine for best results.


Needles. You'll need to use larger needles for the larger size thread like, 28 Wt. or 40 Wt., like 100/16 or 90/14 sizes.

"Needle Size
A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread. If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. We recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread. If you find your thread to be shredding or skipping stitches, try a new needle and go up one size."

Here's a needle size guide from an older Singer machine manual.

 

[SethJ]

Try cotton quilting thread perhaps. Mettler sells it in small spools. with a "silk" finish that makes it a bit easier for hand sewing (rather than hand waxing it):

ca. 30 Weight for heavy wool

Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Blue Shadow #0311

Shop Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Thread in Blue Shadow #0311. Premium German thread. 150m spool.

redrockthreads.com

Slightly lighter, 40 weight... for slightly lighter work.

Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Blue Shadow #0311

Shop Mettler Silk-Finish 50wt Thread in Blue Shadow #0311. Premium German thread. 150m spool.

redrockthreads.com

You'll have to experiment some with your own machine for best results.


Needles. You'll need to use larger needles for the larger size thread like, 28 Wt. or 40 Wt., like 100/16 or 90/14 sizes.

"Needle Size
A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread. If you use a #75/11 or #80/12 size needle for 50 weight thread, you should use a needle with a larger eye when sewing with a heavier thread. We recommend a size #90/14 when sewing with a 40 wt. thread and a #100/16 needle when sewing with a 30 wt or 12 wt. thread. If you find your thread to be shredding or skipping stitches, try a new needle and go up one size."

Here's a needle size guide from an older Singer machine manual.

View attachment 522659

I'm going to have to look around at the local fabric stores... I've seen quilting fabric but never really understood what it was... also, have to get some more sewing machine needles.. I'm down to 1.

 

[captaindrew]

Ben Tart on his Tartex site offers some thread options including quilting thread, looks like pretty reasonable prices

 

[captaindrew]

I bought a couple spools of thread years ago for doing repairs on mostly CS stuff from S&S I believe. One brown for general repairs and one heavier weight undyed, an off white color, for buttons. I don't have the talent, time, or patience to produce anything so just doing repairs those will probably outlast me. I comend you guys that can produce your own stuff.