Day Dresses

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Calico Work Dress, 1860s.jpg


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This is a calico work dress from the 1860s from California.

"This one piece dress is entirely hand sewn from a fabulous calico print in warm reds, oranges and browns; see close-up photos for details. This dress features dropped shoulders and one piece military style sleeves with wide elbows and narrow wrists but is not piped anywhere. Remnants of an Osnaburg type lining remain in both the bodice and the skirt; these remnants do not show any disintegration and so I am thinking that the majority of the lining was intentionally removed for some reason. The bodice is gathered at the waist in both center front and back as is typical of this type of working garment and at some point an extension was made to the waist at the center front to enlarge it a bit; this was done by hand; it could easily be reversed if the new owner desired to do so. The bodice closes down the center front with 8 fancy pink glass buttons which look kind of like acorns; these are set into the fabric and held in place by a strip of the dress fabric which runs through the shanks. The skirt is very full and is gathered to the waistband; there is a pocket in the left front/side of paisley cotton; the hem is faced with a different cotton calico as shown."

http://www.oslhp.net/museum/Virtual Museum/Clothing, Victorian and Civil War/Calico Work Dress, 1860s/index.html
 
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These colors are incredible! The blues and purples- seriously, we just do not see them around today! I've noticed when you do, in a shirt or sweater, even a sweatshirt these are the first colors to sell out. Still, the subtle colors shown here do not exist save maybe genuinely high end products. I'm a huge fan of ' color' but feel manufacturers interpret ' color' to exist in either garish spectrums or monotone or muted. 150 years ago they really knew how to delight us, didn't they? Makes you smile just thinking of wearing some of these, might make dealing with a hoop worth it. :)
 
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Found this at the little Museum at Hupp's Hill right outside of Strasburg VA. Very nice museum and gift shop btw. I'm sorry I didn't get the details more clearly because I didn't know if I could take pictures there or not. It was duck and cover operation. ;)
 
These colors are incredible! The blues and purples- seriously, we just do not see them around today! I've noticed when you do, in a shirt or sweater, even a sweatshirt these are the first colors to sell out. Still, the subtle colors shown here do not exist save maybe genuinely high end products. I'm a huge fan of ' color' but feel manufacturers interpret ' color' to exist in either garish spectrums or monotone or muted. 150 years ago they really knew how to delight us, didn't they? Makes you smile just thinking of wearing some of these, might make dealing with a hoop worth it. :smile:
I'd be interested to know how some of these colors were made. Most colors today are synthetic, and earlier vegetable dye processes have been abandoned. Although synthetic dyes (notably mauve) existed by the time of the Civil War, the transition was still ongoing.
 
I'd be interested to know how some of these colors were made. Most colors today are synthetic, and earlier vegetable dye processes have been abandoned. Although synthetic dyes (notably mauve) existed by the time of the Civil War, the transition was still ongoing.


Right? They're so, so specific, the color such ' off ' hues, you know they're no accident, have to be some ' recipe' they were going for with them. It'd be a great thread. I know less than nothing about dyes- a little something when referring to glazes for pottery. Wonder if any of the same bases are used- you know, cobalt, etc. ?

Anyone know where cloth was manufactured? We're far past homespun, it's been industrialized by the 1860's right? Is it a Northern industry or was it kept closer to the source in the South? Seems like something which would naturally arise there as an industry, save the shipping.
 

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