Civil War Stops on a work trip

[Rusk County Avengers]

Last week I put out a call for suggested CW stops on a long trip from NE Texas through Arkansas, all over Missouri, a chunk of Kansas and back to Texas through Oklahoma. Many folks came out with more suggestions than I could handle! But I was able to stop at many places, but never long enough to enjoy myself to my heart's content, but more than enough to satisfy myself.

The trip was born out of a close friend's illness, but his dire need to get this particular job done, (think "American Pickers" only real and not a fake show), with his illness preventing him from being able to drive so far, thus my involvement. I managed on CW stop a day, and excepting the first one, and the one I was most interested in Arkansas, I was never able to manage more than an hour, at each site. But I brought along a handy digital camera, and snapped what pictures I could, for the benefit of CWT.

The previous thread started to seek advice: https://civilwartalk.com/threads/advise-for-upcoming-trip-through-missouri-and-kansas.159965/

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part One- Cane Hill, Arkansas

This was a stop near and dear to me, I've always loved the mountain ranges of NW Arkansas in the Ozarks, and combine that with a preference for smaller forgotten battles over the big ones and their parks this one was a must. Cane Hill, (or Canehill as some maps and signs put it), was a smaller battle in November 1862 that was part of the lead up to the more famous Battle of Prairie Grove.

A short synopsis of the battle would be that General John S. Marmaduke's command to Cane Hill to forage for provisions for Hindman's Army. Shortly after Marmaduke and his cavalry arrived and began collecting supplies from the area, (agriculture was and still is the main thing for the town), General John Blunt with his "Kansas Division" learned of this and moved to attack Marmaduke planning to destroy the entire command. The battle was small, and fierce and turned into a running battle covering a fifteen mile area of Marmaduke's troops holding their position buying time for the supplies to retreat, then themselves retreating to a new position and so on. The Battle started at the town's cemetery, ran through the town, and then beyond creating a large area to cover, with myself not having time to cover the entire area, but mainly just the town itself.

I plan on doing a thread this weekend covering the battels more thoroughly as I want to do it more justice, after I've collected a great book I had loaned out that is an excellent read "Fields of Blood: The Prairie Grove Campaign" that I wished to have had on my person while traversing the town.

As for the town it is a quiet Arkansas mountain community, most of the town during the CW was destroyed by the 15th Kansas Cavalry after the battle, with most structures not surviving leaving most buildings there post-war, but after the 1920's and 1930's the town was essentially a ghost town, but thanks to the efforts of Historic Cane Hill the old buildings have been brought back with restoration efforts on going. I managed to get to the town around five o'clock Thursday, long after the museum closed to my regret, but had the run of the place.

The Cemetery:

Her is where the battle began, and looking behind the cemetery towards the town the view was beyond beautiful, the pictures really don't do justice to the view.

Moving back towards the town following the path of the battle, the ground gets rocky moving towards the old Cane Hill College, (the building during the war did not survive, with a beautifully restored circa 1886 structure standing on the sight), with it not being so covered by trees by the looks of old pictures of the town, its hard to imagine the difficulty of traversing the ground during a battle.

The circa-1886 College building.

Moving into the town proper, the buildings here are all mostly post-war, but that doesn't distract from them in the least bit! They've done beautiful restoration work.

Before moving on, I would like to put here a picture of one wartime structure in the town that did survive, the "Methodist Manse" circa-1859.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Before moving on to the next CW stop I made, I will share one bit of what some would call foolishness on my part, but I affectionately refer to now as "Guerilla CW touring". Cane Hill has well placed and marked walking trails throughout the town, with one trail, called the "McCulloch Trail" climbing up a small rocky hill, (small mountain by NE TX standards) to a spot where supposedly a few young girls watched the battle.

My crazy self found where it was right before dusk, and said to myself "I'm gonna climb that mountain!" I walked, and walked, climbed up the hill, and managed to get to the top before dusk, and was able to see the sunset as best as possible through the trees.

Coming down became a real problem! I even tripped and almost went over some rocks in the darkness! This trail is a very difficult one to begin with if your not used to such terrain, but even worse if you do something really stupid. Also it being summer I got covered in ticks! I never imagined they could be worse than they are here in NE Texas right now. But would I do it again? Absolutely! Just not in the dark...

On a side note on returning to the truck I told my friend and boss on the trip if I ever thought to do something so stupid again, to shoot me! And empty that gun into me to make sure I stayed down!

On a side note, Cane Hill is a place I HIGHLY recommend visiting.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part Two- Wilson's Creek/Oak Hills

I unfortunately wasn't able to spend much time here, I only had an hour to be there, and spent most of it in the museum, which I highly recommend. Displays pertaining to the battle, John Brown, and so on. I enjoyed myself at the museum, and found the NPS staff there, and especially in the library to be extremely helpful on my need to research and find out what I on several artifacts in the museum. Sadly however, time was short and I had to run.

Also they are about to begin renovations so a lot has gone into storage, and a lot has already gone there. I jokingly said I was going by where the storage facility was at, and I'd appreciate if I could go looking around. I promised to return the key, and asked them to ignore the trailer hooked up to the truck, but for some odd reason they couldn't allow it!

I love M1841 12-pound Field Howitzers....

 

[captaindrew]

Thanks for the tour

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Thanks for the tour

Oh it ain't over yet, lol long 5 days.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part Three-Osceola, Missouri

Osceola is pretty well remembered, Jim Lane, Jayhawkers running around on a little pyro-maniac's dream, all but three buildings were burned to the ground. So naturally there isn't much CW sites I could find concerning the little CW atrocity that helped begat atrocity. But its still a nice little town on the banks of the Truman Reservoir to visit, even if feeling "empty".

But all that isn't to say, there is nothing there to interest the CW historian or enthusiast, after all this is the site of a somewhat famous hotel, famous for Jesse James, and friends staying there, as well as historical figures with CW connections like Harry Truman.

Currently a real nice family is busy restoring the old Commercial Hotel of Osceola, I'm personally not crazy of the I'm-bet-is-not-historically-correct cedar poles, although you gotta love cedar wood in that role for prettiness, they are working hard to restore the old Hotel to its former glory, with the interior supposed to be historically correct to its heyday and will be open for business as a hotel again! Hopefully affording historically minded folks to a period hotel during they're Missouri travels. They are planning on being open by Labor Day, but still have a lot of work to do.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part Four- Marshall, Missouri

Here is a place many may not know much of, I know I've only heard of it in passing and never looked real deep into it. Here was the site of a battle during General Jo Shelby's 1863 Raid into Missouri, supposedly a battle that decided Shelby's return to Arkansas. Marshall is a real pretty town, surrounded by corn and soybean fields, and a lot of heat and tools I had to load up while I was there.

Looking out in the direction Shelby attacked.

I didn't have much time to spend here, and had just got done doing a lot of work out in the heat in an area of Missouri that feels like there is no shade, so I will have to apologize, I just wasn't up to giving a real good proper tour of this small park. But I was still determined to do something!

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part Five-Lexington, Missouri

This was the site of the relatively well known Siege of Lexington, or rather "Battle of the Hemp Bales" for Price's Missouri State Guard using hemp bales to attack Mulligan's positions. The battlefield park is seemingly well preserved, with the Union entrenchments being left un-mowed to make them more apparent. I only got a chance to run around one section of the park, and museum and regrettably didn't have enough time to see the Anderson House which had been a hospital during the battle and was the sight of on famous fight during the short siege. On the way Lexington I passed through such places as Waverly, not getting a chance to stop, and had the run of town Saturday evening with a local gentleman and Korean War veteran who had lived there his whole life. Luckily for me however, I suspect I shall be able to return there easily someday.

Looking out in the direction of where the famous hemp bales were used, also a note, I highly doubt there that many trees.

Saturday night a storm blew through, that really was a relief for me at the time as the temperatures went from the nineties to the sixties Sunday morning. Unfortunately at the battlefield a limb off a tree fell down on one of Mulligan's artillery emplacements by the Union graves. I notified the very helpful staff as soon as they opened, if I had had a chainsaw handy and more time, I probably would have offered to help clean it up, as it would have been a privilege to me, but I just couldn't swing it.

Also, Lexington has a very fine museum, I highly recommend a visit, and I honestly don't know what cannon this is. Something on the inscription of Missouri troops and the Mexican War, that I couldn't read. Perhaps a thread on it is needed...

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

As a side note on Lexington, Saturday night, (I saw the battlefield Sunday morning), my tour guide took me to the sight of the old iron bridge that was torn down some time ago in favor of a new bridge named after some politician, dynamiting the WW1 memorial bridge years ago, with a beautiful WW1 memorial directly in front of the turn off to the bridge. I climbed the remains of the memorial, (pictures don't do it justice to the height of that hill), where apparently the Doughboy statue had been moved away to the famous Lexington Courthouse, and I'll go ahead and share these pictures.

Looking out in the direction of where the bridge once was.

It was just to beautiful a view to not share! Even if sad in a way with that memorial...

Also the Lexington Courthouse that was there during the battle. Also I'm not bothering with pictures of the famous cannonball in the column as I think everyone knows of it.

While in Lexington one local gentleman informed me of plans of a big reenactment of the siege in 2021, something I hope to attend now!

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Part Six- Atoka, Oklahoma

After Lexington, it was getting to be hammer time on time, I didn't have a chance to stop by anymore of the places I would have liked to see, I even had to skip seeing the John Brown museum I had heard tell of near the site of his famous Pottawattamie Creek shenanigans, and didn't make a single CW stop in Kansas. However on the way home, along Hwy. 69 I made a stop at the nice, if humble, Confederate Memorial Museum and Cemetery in Atoka, Oklahoma. The museum has several post-war buildings on site, a Confederate Cemetery, and the museum itself. In the museum, only one section was devoted to the CW, the rest to Atoka County's history, with a big exhibit on a certain country singer.

Still a great stop I would recommend.

Also an interesting Confederate grouping of artifacts. I might have to try and duplicate the trousers....

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

That about concludes my roundabout CW tour! I would highly recommend every place, and I apologize for me not having the time to take everyone on a detailed tour like the great James N. and others here on CWT. I'd also like to extend my thanks to everyone who put out excellent suggestions last week. As for the work I was doing, like I said it was something of that reality picker show that has no basis in reality in my book only real. I'll share a picture of the trailer when we got back to Texas just for laughs...

 

[James N.]

Part Five-Lexington, Missouri

This was the site of the relatively well known Siege of Lexington, or rather "Battle of the Hemp Bales" for Price's Missouri State Guard using hemp bales to attack Mulligan's positions. The battlefield park is seemingly well preserved, with the Union entrenchments being left un-mowed to make them more apparent. I only got a chance to run around one section of the park, and museum and regrettably didn't have enough time to see the Anderson House which had been a hospital during the battle and was the sight of on famous fight during the short siege. On the way Lexington I passed through such places as Waverly, not getting a chance to stop, and had the run of town Saturday evening with a local gentleman and Korean War veteran who had lived there his whole life. Luckily for me however, I suspect I shall be able to return there easily someday.

This reminds me of a very early reenactment I attended there ca. 1977 with a friend of mine John Snapp; we served with a Missouri unit that reenacted using a 3/4 scale six-pounder as Bledsoe's Battery. There was NO museum, but I think there were exhibits in one of the period buildings, though I don't remember going into any of them. I need to scan what I have from then for a thread on that event!

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

This reminds me of a very early reenactment I attended there ca. 1977 with a friend of mine John Snapp; we served with a Missouri unit that reenacted using a 3/4 scale six-pounder as Bledsoe's Battery. There was NO museum, but I think there were exhibits in one of the period buildings, though I don't remember going into any of them. I need to scan what I have from then for a thread on that event!

I'd want to see a thread on that! But a 3/4 scale 6-pounder? That'd be heresy today, but still a greater gun in historical accuracy than some the guns there now.

This replica non-firing gun at the museum/visitors center was just funky like a lot of non-firing replicas at parks. Still a great display.

 

[Lusty Murfax]

As a side note on Lexington, Saturday night, (I saw the battlefield Sunday morning), my tour guide took me to the sight of the old iron bridge that was torn down some time ago in favor of a new bridge named after some politician, dynamiting the WW1 memorial bridge years ago, with a beautiful WW1 memorial directly in front of the turn off to the bridge. I climbed the remains of the memorial, (pictures don't do it justice to the height of that hill), where apparently the Doughboy statue had been moved away to the famous Lexington Courthouse, and I'll go ahead and share these pictures.

View attachment 317674

Looking out in the direction of where the bridge once was.

View attachment 317675

View attachment 317677

It was just to beautiful a view to not share! Even if sad in a way with that memorial...

Also the Lexington Courthouse that was there during the battle. Also I'm not bothering with pictures of the famous cannonball in the column as I think everyone knows of it.

View attachment 317678

While in Lexington one local gentleman informed me of plans of a big reenactment of the siege in 2021, something I hope to attend now!

That old Lexington bridge sure was memorable. I crossed it many times and dreaded meeting trucks and farm implements. The concrete abutments at the southern end were heavily pitted and scarred from collisions.

Have heard that the cannon ball at the Courthouse is a replica and the original fell out many years ago. Lexington is a fine old town with numerous examples of antebellum architecture.

Some of the finest farm land in the country is situated in Lafayette and Saline Counties. Malta Bend between Waverly and Marshall is about as good as it gets. Second bottoms and uplands with deep black soils. Those area farmers live in corn and soybean heaven.

 

[Lusty Murfax]

That about concludes my roundabout CW tour! I would highly recommend every place, and I apologize for me not having the time to take everyone on a detailed tour like the great James N. and others here on CWT. I'd also like to extend my thanks to everyone who put out excellent suggestions last week. As for the work I was doing, like I said it was something of that reality picker show that has no basis in reality in my book only real. I'll share a picture of the trailer when we got back to Texas just for laughs...

View attachment 317686

Are you in the market for JD 640 side deliver four bar basket hay rakes? I have two more for you.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Are you in the market for JD 640 side deliver four bar basket hay rakes? I have two more for you.

I'm not, but my partner in crime might be. His broke down and his answer was buy several more. One he bought is waiting on us in South Dakota. I'll have to ask him, they left hand, or right hand?

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

That old Lexington bridge sure was memorable. I crossed it many times and dreaded meeting trucks and farm implements. The concrete abutments at the southern end were heavily pitted and scarred from collisions.

Have heard that the cannon ball at the Courthouse is a replica and the original fell out many years ago. Lexington is a fine old town with numerous examples of antebellum architecture.

Some of the finest farm land in the country is situated in Lafayette and Saline Counties. Malta Bend between Waverly and Marshall is about as good as it gets. Second bottoms and uplands with deep black soils. Those area farmers live in corn and soybean heaven.

Yeah I got exposed to how much of a farmer dream that country is. It still boggles my mind just how large some of those corn and soybean fields are.

And after spending some time in one cornfield, give me a hay field any day!

 

[bdtex]

Great thread. Not sure how I missed it before today. Thanks for the pictures and commentary on some lesser known CW sites. I love doing that whenever possible. Great minds think alike.

 

[Rusk County Avengers]

Great thread. Not sure how I missed it before today. Thanks for the pictures and commentary on some lesser known CW sites. I love doing that whenever possible. Great minds think alike.

Lesser known sites are my favorite. Don't feel bad, a lot of folks missed this thread, it was a heck of a surprise when I logged in and saw 30 alerts, leading me to think "Who did I tick off this time and when did I do it?"

For me, Cane Hill was the main stop I wanted to go by, and I was not disappointed! Speaking of which I plan on doing a book review on a book with a ton of information on that unjustly forgotten battle next week. I wish I had it with me when there, but I called the man I had loaned my copy out to in Jefferson and it was him who convinced me to stop by Wilson's Creek/Oak Hills, as I had planned on skipping it due to its size and time.

It was a great trip. Since I started this thread I've been in contact with Historic Cane Hill and much to my dismay they don't do any CW reenactments or Living History's and don't seem to want anything to do with the town's CW history. Which to me personally, that seems like folly as after the CW the town faded into the pages of history, and its literally the only thing the town is known for outside of NW Arkansas. Still great folks there, they just remind me of some other towns and their handling of history.

I'd be happy to visit more on it at the Jefferson CW Symposium, next weekend I believe.